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Project Grizzlybeaver
#1
[Image: 952945-R1-00-26A.jpg]
I'm starting. I posted a tread a few months ago about building on credit vs. cash and decided on the latter. Well, this is the first year in a while that my PFD hasn't been spent before the check hit the mailbox and I already have many of the parts ready to go.

My winter goals are pretty attainable for the 5-6 month season we have up here.

1st step is to pull the axles, engine, and trans before it gets too cold to work outside.

The axles will get cleaned up, re-geared, re-sealed, locked, and converted to disk brake.

The engine and trans will get cleaned and re-sealed and I'll swap the Holley 4bbl with a Truck Avenger.

I'll be begging Holeski to help me design and build a locking twinstick setup for the Dana20 tcase and remove the interlock pins...:whistle: oh, hi Eric. I'm still undecided about whether or not to get a TeraLo gear kit.

I'll also be building bumpers. I can work inside and take short trips to the driveway for mockups and measurements.

If that's all done by springtime then the real fun begins.

The body comes off the frame. The frame gets cleaned and POR15 coated. The body gets stripped and a new coat of the proper color OD green from Gilespie. (They make all kinds of military vehicle paint and have paint codes for every old M series vehicle in existance. They also sell it in rattle cans so I can thrash the finish and touch it up at will.)

Painless wiring harness.

Bigger gas tank or two smaller. (28gal now - I want at least 40)

Build another battery box for #2. Wire in isolator and run power cables to front and rear for reciever mounted winch. (I'd like to find military style slave cable plugs for this just to keep the theme running)

Find a bench seat with seat belts built in. Strengthen the hart-top and add a bigger rear window. Hit up Holeski again for some rollcage action and have a soft top made to mount on said rollcage.

Once all this is put back together the Grizzlybeaver should be basically functional - driveable at least. I'll take it down to Anchorage to AK Spring & Brake for some springs. (Not that 1 1/4 ton suspension isn't cool, it just doesn't flex.)

I'll need to Ebay some new RTII HMMWV tires and get some Staun internal beadlocks for the 16.5" rims. There are some smokin' deals on tires out there since the Army's converting the older models to radials.

And of course the laundry list of this and that is endless, but I'll hit those as they come up.
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#2
Try stinky petes on Badger he had a bunch of RTII's for sale.
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#3
Last I looked in there they were all pretty worn. ...but that was a while ago.
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#4
That's gonna be a sweet rig. Can't wait to see it. Now to get my projects going. I have a feeling I'll be working a bit outside on both the project Burb and the next offroad rig.
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#5
In case anyone was wondering...

The Great Lakes grizzly beaver is a highly elusive animal found in the Boundary Waters Canoe Area of northern Minnesota. They are presumed to be genetically identical to the North American beaver (castor canadensis). However, they grow to be significantly larger and more agressive than their bretheren due to larger habitat with greater abundance of food and longer active season. This is the same scenario as found in the brown bears of Alaska. Coastal brown bears are called kodiaks while brown bears in the interior regions are called grizzlies. Some geneticists speculate there may be a connection to the extinct North American Giant beaver (castoroides ohioensis) believed to have gone extinct in the Holocene extiction event approximately 10,000-13,000 years ago. This theory is only speculation and generally discounted. Although sightings of Great Lakes grizzly beavers are exceptionally rare, their population seems to be holding steady.
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#6
Why not put in a 60 front out of a Chevy? That seems like it would be easier, even if you have to deal with springing it under.

Of course, if you sprung the front over, you could have them make you some much flatter springs.
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#7
Advent Wrote:Why not put in a 60 front out of a Chevy? That seems like it would be easier, even if you have to deal with springing it under.

I strongly considered just that. I compared $ of swapping axles vs. modifying the originals and came out about even when you figure in parts and fab work on top of buying 2 axles. I'd either have to do both axles, run differing bolt patterns (original is 6 on 7 1/4; weird, huh?), or modify the rear pattern to match the new front. I'd also want to convert a 14 bolt rear to disk + more parts + fab work to get it mounted = more $... etc. I know the closed knuckle 60 isn't quite as strong as a kingpin type axle, but if I break something running that mild V8 and 4.56 gears with only 36" tires I'm doing somthing wrong. Breaking a Dana70, even an older one like mine, forgeddaboudit. Regearing isn't so bad since I'll have them apart to install the locker and posi anyway. The Helitool(Uglytruckling) disk conversion kits are really sweet, straight forward easy, and the result will be off-the-shelf brake parts. Years in the future and after a few more pay raises this truck may get a Duramax, Allison, and 2.5ton Rockwells with 4wheel steering. Big Grin Sooner if I win the lottery...:whistle:

Now... if only Jake had put his axles up for sale before I bought all those parts... at the price he was asking... we wouldn't be discussing this...:errf:
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#8
There's a Dana70 in my garage and a truck on 2 jack stands in my driveway.
[Image: 952945-R1-14-12A.jpg]
It came out pretty easy even with my rudimentary tool colection. The 39 year old u-bolts were a little ill-tempered but, seeing as they're not getting re-used...
[Image: 952945-R1-13-13A.jpg]
...a hacksaw adjusted that attitude problem.

The front will be a little more tricky. I'm planning on just yanking the whole deal; leaf springs and all.

Once they're both out I'll gut, clean, and paint. I'm contemplating a dinner party at my place for the rebuild and regear. I'm really just hoping to shamelessly solicit the help of people with experience and special tools with a bribe of BBQ and beverages.
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#9
Oh man does pulling the front axle in a spring-under rig suck. How hard is it to pull your knuckles? I found that pulling my knuckles and sliding the axle out through the leaves works pretty well. Just drain the thing first.
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#10
I'm thinking of taking the axle out with springs attached then cutting the u-bolts after. I could just drop the front of the springs and roll it off that way after cutting the u-bolts too. We'll see. Much will depend on how cold I get while wrestling with this thing and which bolts come off easiest. I don't want to mess with disassembling anything like the knuckles outside in the snow. I dropped the rear with wheels on so I could roll it into the garage and need to do the same with the front.

Well the rear axle is as torn down as I can get it. I can't get the pinion out without an impact wrench. I've been meaning to invest in a compressor and air tools anyway... Figuring out where and how to pry the carrier out would have been comical to watch for someone who knew what they were doing. For me it was like a monkey doing algebra but I figured it out eventually. I'll get it all cleaned up and ready for paint and reassembly then pull the front out and do the same. When they're both clean and pretty I'll do the reassemblies at the same time.

Question for anyone with an attached garage: how do you keep the shop-like, oily, brakecleaner smell out of the house in the winter especially when it makes other people queezy?
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#11
1st roll of film is almost shot up!Big Grin
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#12
so go get them developed!

About the only garage smells inside my house are from my clothes. And I keep my coveralls in the garage, so even that isn't bad. Air fresheners?
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#13
...almost shot up...

SHoppe715 Wrote:I can't get the pinion out without an impact wrench.

Spoke too soon. Just took my prom dress off and twisted harder.
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#14
SHoppe715 Wrote:Just took my prom dress off and twisted harder.

That's probably not a skill you should brag about around here...
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#15
:worthless:

It's been a while. Have you had the chance to make any progress on this. I can't wait to see it on the trail this summer.
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#16
The rear axle is completely stripped and ready to rebuild. The front will come out soon and get the same treatment. I slowed up in December because of Christmas leave traveling and now wedding planning. The truck was delivered in Sept 1967. Plan on a 40th birthday run this year! That's my absolute deadline to be rolling. As for pictures - I'm the worst procrastinator you'll ever meet.
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#17
C'mon. How can you properly document a resto-build such as this without pics? Boo. Smile
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#18
I have pics, hoser. :p I just have to take the "film" to get "developed". We all remember that process, right. Wink It's just that I'm a really really bad procrastinator. I'm actually going tomorrow so it'll be soon.

I wouldn't call it a restoration in any way. The only original parts of the driveline are the axles and when I'm done with them they'll maybe be 50% original themselves. I don't have deep enough pockets to do a faithful restoration on this old grunt. It was already too civilianized when I got it.

The front axle is out and thawing in my garage. It actually came out a bit easier than the rear. 4 bolts for the leaf springs, 8 nuts for the driveshaft, pop off the drag link, cut the old brake lines, yank the beast out, done. This week, if I don't get sidetracked, I'll strip it down and get the 2 tubes painted.Big Grin
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#19
Rear axle teardown pics...
[Image: 952945-R1-15-11A.jpg]
Probabll the first time in 40 years this shaft's been out judging by how hard it was to break the gasket free.
[Image: 952945-R1-16-10A.jpg]
I had to drill out the drum retaining bolts and found the expected worn shoes and blown cylinders
[Image: 952945-R1-17-9A.jpg]
The disk conversion kit came with replacement hubs so these have to get sent back. Ray never charged me a core and sent the retooled hubs on faith that he'd get my old ones.
[Image: 952945-R1-18-8A.jpg]
These are ready to go back to Helitool and will no doubt get modified and sent out to someone else in a rear disk kit.
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#20
More rear axle stuff...
[Image: 952945-R1-20-6A.jpg]
Gears looked great so I'll save 'em in case I ever want 5.87:1.:eek:
[Image: 952945-R1-23-3A.jpg]
Cleaning off years of dirt and grime.

See that toy flashlight? See how it's knocked over? It's my kid's toy but it's the only one my clumsy @$$ couldn't break that night.
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#21
Cool. Someday I'll start working on mine.
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#22
Front axle teardown pics...
[Image: 952945-R1-24-2A.jpg]
Shackle bolts came out easily.
[Image: 952945-R1-25-1A.jpg]
Disconnected everything, took off wheels, and dragged it out.
[Image: 952945-R1-26-0A.jpg]
I felt weak so I put my worklights to use and dragged it out.
[Image: 952946-R1-00-25A.jpg]
The wheels are heavy but rolling uphilll is easier than carrying or dragging.
[Image: 952946-R1-01-24A.jpg]
I really need a bigger garage.

And now we wait for another roll of film to get shot up.:whistle:
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#23
this looks like a lot of fun. Man, I could use 587 gears. I could also use axles to put them in too!
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#24
Looks like your making progress. If you need a hand sometime let me know. If I'm not watching the kiddos or doing anything else I'm always happy to come turn some wrenches.
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#25
Sweet. That rear housing looks like it's in excellent shape.

What's the next project after axle rebuild?
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#26
Both front and rear seem to be in great shape. I drained the front last night and pulled the cover. I was cussing myself for negligence when the first liquid past the drain plug was water. I lucked out, though, and there wasn't enough to hit the ring gear. There was only a little superficial rust in the very bottom of the housing. The gears look good like the rears did so I've got both 5.87:1 sets to save in case I ever go taller and bigger.

After the axle rebuild comes the engine. It was running great when I stopped driving it and in fact it still does.The engine and trans will come out so I can clean up all the "improvising" the previous builder did. It definitely needs all new seals and gaskets but I don't think a full rebuild is called for. I'll know more when I pull the heads and check for wear on the cylinder walls and valves.
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