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YJ Re-build
so how does it wheel now bud ? looks great , looks like lot of rub in the back with those big meats . i will see you 1 week in nov .. april and i are coming up for our 10 th yr wedding anniversary having Kevin redo our wedding vows on the trail !

cant wait to see you again .

The rub is almost all just on the out side of the flares. Not to bad really.
Looks great. How's it running? All the bugs worked out of it.
NO not all. still lots to do and I really need new driveshafts.
Looks like the tires might take the front flares off if you try turning.
Dude that looks awesome!!!!!can't wait to see it in person!!!
Advent Wrote:Looks like the tires might take the front flares off if you try turning.

Yeah at some point they might. Thats why I have a tube bender.
holeski Wrote:Yeah at some point they might. Thats why I have a tube bender.

Heh, heh, heh.

Like any other 4x4 problem, this can be solved with a sawzall and a welder Cool
The tires don't hit the body much at all, it's just the outside of the flare.
i can only imagine how tall it feels with 40's ! with all the gearing you have now i bet its still slower than before .

wheels look great eric . snow runs will be a blast !
I can still bark them on the road or start in 2ed. It doen't feel that tall and with the 3" backspacing on the rims it's not tipsy at all. Pat and I where doing power slides on the dirt road.
I was able to make the spare fit on the carrier. It was a tight fit and to close it I need to pull the tire core and let the air out so the tire would shrink enough to clear the bumper. I will fix that later buy moving the center mounting plate up .50-1". Drives OK, drive shafts are really bad. I took a nice size chunk off the rear driver’s tire crawling on that concrete, man that stuff is sharp. I don’t see 5 gear much, have to be going over 65MPH to maintain it and I still have a lot to work out with the front axle and I need to replace the spring bushings.
Wow. Once all the big stuff is done and the Jeep started moving on it own all the little things started popping up. I pulled the rear shims out and replaced with a ½" space that is longer then the spring perch. This will help me keep the same hide height and battle axle wrap. I hope it helps the vibes some too. Although with the weight of the new 40" spare on the back it’s squating some; I might need to out higher in the back some. Dropped the gas tank so I could replace all the fuel lines. This took most of the day, what a pain. Did an entire general once over to tighten the shackle and spring bolts. Speedo gear was leaking from changing from a 59-tooth to a 34-tooth gear so I pulled and re-sealed it. Though a new oil pan heater on after Nate and I had to rip the old one off to do the rear main oil seal earlier on this summer. Pulled the drag link out and shortened it by an inch. This way I was able to pull the pitmen arm straight in hopes of less bump steer. And since the new tires are so big I decided to go back to using a steering dampener so I though that on too. I’ll do the full alignment when it’s light outside so I can step back a bit and see what I’m doing. Just to cramped in my tinny space with that Jeep in there. I have lists like this for days; just tons of small stuff before I start with the more big stuff lists that I have already started.
ya, it seems the little things take more time to wrap up then the big stuff. The good news is the Lantern will be active in the winter wheeling.
Well I'm not sure when I will pull the font axle to go thought it. So I still may be down some.
I ended up needing to put the rear shims back in. I think I have it as best as I can until I order a new driveshafts. Nate’s shaft is bent and short. Heather and I did the alignment and it drove pretty well. I'll try to get a few photos later.
I have gotten some good testing done the last few weeks and started to work on things that need to be ironed out on the Jeep. I put some new rear shocks on today and swapped the metal sleeve that sets inside the rear spring bushing. It had just under 1/8" to slide around back there. This should help the rear end shimmy I have when the rear spare is on the back, shocks should also help the axle wrap to a point. I also got the front ARB switch in, but still need to plum the airlines for it. I laid out a few ideas for the anti wrap bar too and hope to start on it within the week. I have some other work to do first on the XJ.
Well do to Napa’s ability to screw up anything my YJ is still stuck in the garage. I can’t get the Shop truck in to work on that build up and a Clutch job on an XJ waiting also. I ordered two tie rod ends over a year ago. No really. Well after fighting with them over it I just reordered them and they sent the wrong part numbers, but the order slip was right.
So I worked on some other stuff.
Hooked up the 4wd light switch. Now the factory 4wd light pops up whenever I’m in 4WH, 4WL 2WL front. Yeah fun. I installed the Crane Dana 44 Diff cover on the front axle gear oil need changed anyhow. These come powder coated and are perfect if you run hard, rocks or just don’t have a lot of clearance under your rig. If you are interested in one for your jeep or truck let us know and we can hook you up.
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See the beef.

[Image: Diff_0109.JPG]
more beef

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Look how thick this thing is and thats a thick steel 44 cover.
[Image: Diff_0114.JPG]
Among other things I built a anti wrap bar for the rear end as I was snapping u-joints every time I left the house. Seemed to work really well on the last run to Banner. Didn’t seem to hinder flex at all. We’ll have to see how it does on the RTI now.

[Image: Dsc_0006.jpg]
Sorry it's sideways, so am I most of the time.

[Image: Dsc_0004.jpg]

[Image: DSC_0056.JPG]
And a flex shot with the antiwrap bar inplace.

[Image: DSC_0057.JPG]
OK one more.
Looks really good eric! Are those wheel spacers on your front axle? I like that diff cover also, may have to see about getting one in the future.
Yeah wheel spacers. I might swap out of a larger/wider axle up front, but I would like to sell or move the Pro Rock 60 to another rig also as they are the same width.
eric do you have another pic to show the clearence of the drive shaft on the frame crossmember ?

hey eric happy turkey day bro !miss ya !
Well I tore into the ARB air system on the YJ and rewired everything. The stock ARB wiring harness and compressor are designed so that the front locked can not engage until the rear one is on. So it’s both off, rear on front off or both on. I knew there was a way to change it so you could have just the front on, I did some research and found out how. I was asked not to give out the info on how, due to legal issues. So now that I knew how to modify the stock setup I could get to rewiring mine. I don’t have an ARB compressor or wiring harness, but I copied it for mine with one change, well two. First I didn’t want to use 3 switches I only wanted two, the rear and the front switch so I had to figure out how to make each switch also turn the compressor on without also turning the other locker on too. The answer was two separate relays. Works great, turn one locker on and it pressurizes the system so when you do flip the second ARB on it’s instant. I can have just the front on, just the back or both. For more info get with me personally and I’ll help you out.

I'll get a photo of the Antiwrap bar next time it's inside.
ARB doesn't want you giving out info on how to make your locker system more to your liking? What a load of crap. What if you order a front ARB separately from a rear, and install them at two different times with two different switches? I guess each would come with its own relay...
The instructions that came with my wiring harness (purchased separately from the compressor and the locker) told me how to turn on the front only. It was just a simple jumper wire to add.
Now, eliminating the compressor switch completely, that's different. I'd have to sit down and think about that one for a while. But I don't see why ARB would want it kept a secret.

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