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Taco
#1
2004 Tacoma Double cab, 2wd prerunner TRD
3.4L
Auto trans
150,000 miles.

Broken passenger window replaced.

[ATTACH=CONFIG]1322[/ATTACH]

Looking for pre-unit bearing F350 dana 60s to start. My current plan is for Elockers (vs ARBs) front and rear with gears in the 5.38 range. I have debated a Detroit in the rear, but don't think I will go that way....time will tell.
RCV front shafts for smooth turning and no broken axle u joints.

SAS the front...that will he the biggest project. Box in front and rear frame to stiffen it.

Tires and Wheels:
Plan will be to run 41.x13 Rocker Radials
Perhaps Raceline beadlocks vs internal bead lock.
Looking at builds, I will need a D100 brake booster to run 4 wheel discs as the Tacoma system isn't manly enough.

Suspension: I am thinking 3 link front and 4 link (probably triangulated upper links) rear with coil springs. At this point JK coils with adjustable spacers would allow to tune ride height.

GVW is over 5k, so the Alaska frame height limit of 26" is doable based on build threads for other DCs on 40s. My goal is big and street legal.

IFS box with PSC Hydro assist ram on the books. I am uncertain if I will need hi-steer arms.

I will need a factory tcase to match up with the Marlin crawler double case with 2.3 and 4.7 reduction gears.

Continuous duty cycle on-board air.

12K pound Warn winch up front
10K pound Warn (or 9.5K rock crawler) out back

Cage...inside. Goal is to use exterior tubes/sliders just to protect the body. This will mean some trimming of the fenders/bedside.

build threads being used as a guide:
http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/1st-gen...n-sas.html


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#2
Sounds like a cool build. I need to get bigger tires....
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#3
sounds good Brian can't wait to see some big progress.
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#4
Sounds like a pretty cool build!! Courios on what u will be using for springs and/or shocks. I would love to have a linked suspention. That's on my long term wish list
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#5
What would the cost of a set of sway a ways or ORI cost compared to the JK coils, spacers and shocks for the travel?
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#6
$2400 for ORIs

Figure 400 tops for springs (all 4) and going balls to the wall FOX shocks...$800 = $1200.

That is how I went with the coils spring option...even with ACOS for 500, you are still $1700 under cost and won't have a nitrogen leak on the trail to leave you flat.

I am not a fan, however, of that kind of technology. Something amazing would have to wow me.
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#7
The technology is why I mentioned ORI. Proven time and time again. No need for limiting straps, bump stops or sway bars. Just a mount on the axle and the frame. Completely tunable ride and ride height a lot easier than ACOS.

Just a thought.
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#8
So out of curiosity I got hold of ORI.
There are no reliable reports on cold weather operation on the web.

ORI reported they can get seals durable to -65.
They are currently collecting data on cold weather function of their oils in the STX, high performance line.

I am on the list....if they remember...to send the data to once they have it.
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#9
Tell them your Taco can be their arctic testing platform.
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#10
Yeah, what Ole said. It is hard to be the first to try an item in our temps but if given an extremely steep discount it's easier.
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#11
Got the dana 60s
Will need to source rear calipers down the road.
Probably start building these next spring.
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Wheel mounting surface is about the outside of the Toyota factory tires...so with 4" backspacing I should have 9" of protruding tire to cover with tube fenders.

I put the Yota on jackstands with a frame height of 26 inches....AK max for my GVRW.
In this configuration it seems the front axle may have to move 3" forward. The rear may go back 1/2".
Goal will be to trim to not lengthen the wheelbase too much.


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#12
Good to see a another hardcore build in the works!
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#13
Ongoing talks with Greentree, the Toyota fab dudes.

Estimates for time are a little wide, which makes understanding costs hard. 40-60 hours for the rear, 60-80 hours for the front....three link front and rear. I expected less time as there are suspension kits that could be installed, which remove the engineering part of the build, and in early communication that seems to be what they would do.

It has me contemplating starting work on the rear myself:
--cutting out the spare tire carrier (plasma and grinder...I can do that)
--plating the frame and adding cross member. That is a kit which means prep and weld rather than cut out and fab.
That basic stuff would require I weld somewhat nicely (would have to start practicing now) and cut down on some of the 40 to 60 hours to compete the rear, leaving the key stuff like the 3-link to the pros.

The front would be more tricky, as once you cut that up, and you can't move the truck. Estimates for the front are around 60 to 80 hours...which would depend on lots of custom factors. If I could dial in the scut work on the rear, the $$ would be well spent having the front done.

In theory, I could use one of the kit tcase mount/skid plates and have the doubler and tcase on too.

I have to do some more researching, as the time quote seems long based on other builds I have seen. Of course the million dollar question is, where would I come up with 140 hours (or at my skill level, 280 hours) to do a major portion of this build.

On top of that, my initial goal is to do the front and rear axles, ARBs, gears and shafts first. Once I commit to those, the build goes forward.

Brings back basic Econ....diminishing returns. Back to the web for more research.
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#14
shaping your metal dreams always comes at a price .looking forward to see how this 1 comes out.
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#15
If you want to cut down the fab time on the front, we could always make a simple dolly to get it onto a trailer so GreenTree can finish at a fraction of the estimated shop time.
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#16
I just don't have a place and tools together to get far enough along to disable it.

We shall see.
Plan has been to swap gas tank and drive it again this summer anyway.
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#17
i know a guy that might rent out shop space fairly cheap for toyota work but jeep space isn't cheap!
just some help in the shop and little cash to cover electric and materials used. just depends on how long you'll need the space for.
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#18
So after spending time on the web, I cannot believe that the project estimate time is correct. Trail Gear time estimate for a 3 link in your yard is up to 2 weekends....which should really be under 40 hours. A shop should be able to finish quicker.

Still has me thinking....
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#19
Was he using trail gear parts or fabbing everything him self? I kinda looked into doing a SAS using a custom built Toyota axle to match the width of the rear for around 6500. Would be less with out the axle and ARB but probably offset to the same if you go with the coilover shocks instead of just conventional coils like I looked at.
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#20
I emailed them again.
I think this was all fab time. We had been talking about kits, even the benefit of buying bumpers (cheaper than they can fab most of them).

I will keep everyone updated.
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#21
arctic alf Wrote:i know a guy that might rent out shop space fairly cheap for toyota work but jeep space isn't cheap!
just some help in the shop and little cash to cover electric and materials used. just depends on how long you'll need the space for.

I am pretty sure my working on it will be episodic....weekend here and there. It is more of a winter build for sure, but gotta do some more looking.
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#22
offer is there Brian. as far as there estimate on time if it's a true finished job including paint i would guess around 40 hrs for the front give or take 10 hrs. i have oxy/acetylene torch , plasma and welder here. a couple of weekends here and there aren't a problem if i know in advance. plus i've got a couple different angle/degree finders and a toe gauge as well. with a couple of guys we could get it into rolling shape in a weekend.
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#23
So the quote is using kits.
I know it is a big job, but I will need to do at least some of the work.
$15K with no parts is off the charts.
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#24
i think it could be done for less. just really depends on what you want . the only semi pain in the butt part might be the ABS system if it's integrated into the main computer.
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#25
There is an ABS delete kit.
That should be simple
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#26
What axle will you be using? I have a few GM 1/2 if you need them.
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