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M416 build
#1
I need room to do distance wheeling if taking along my girls.
I have been looking all over at trailers, the nice ones are over $4000 and really don't fit my need.
Therefore, being a highly talented fabricator ( :confused: ) I have designed a trailer from scratch that will fit all of my stuff.
When loaded with extra fuel and water, the total payload is around 250# based on today's pile in the basement.

I want to keep the trailer reasonably light and keep the tongue weight down.

I figure a rigid frame to start:
2x3 box, including the angled rails for the front cargo platform.
2x2 box for the tongue, having a receiver at both ends.
2x2 box would be located fore and aft to make nerf bars for wheel/fender protection (the front come off the angled bars for the cargo platform.

[ATTACH=CONFIG]990[/ATTACH]

[ATTACH=CONFIG]991[/ATTACH]

Axle from 6 Robblees (63" wms to wms and spring centers 48")
try and run 28 inch tires with something like 4 on 4.5 bolt pattern.

The box itself is a little more tricky, as it has to have a lid.
vertical supports, 30" of 1x1 (8 total) with 1x1 top
the lid I envisioned as angle iron, just bigger than the top, hinged with the heavy rubber seal around the lip.
lid and sides covered with diamond plate, fastened on with nutzerts.
lid would then have a roof rack like basket.
hood prop rod and struts would help support the lid.


So...questions
1) this seems overbuilt. Can I reduce weight by using different steel in some of these places?
2) should the entire lid be aluminum?
3) other adaptations to improve strength and reduce weight?


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#2
When I had my Jeep, I was thinking about building a trailer similar to a M416. I was going to have the body bent out of a large piece metal which would make it more ridgid. It could be made water tight with the front and end panels welded on, which would help while fording and also reduce dust inside. Access to the inside would be through the lid with hydraulic assist cylinders. The entire body and top could be made out of aluminum as well.

I know it's a lot more money, but have you considered matching the trailer tire size to the vehicle? Still carry a dedicated trailer spare, but that would be a total of 2 spare for the vehicle if needed.

[Image: attachment.php?attachmentid=31154&stc=1&d=1249878547]
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#3
That is ideal...but with a lid you are talking $5,000...and those tend too big for my purposes. I want a trailer around 300# max unloaded.

How or who could bend some steel...or maybe better aluminum?
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#4
I have an old '50 pick up box that I was thinking about building a cart trailer out of. If u want stop by and take a look at it.

Aluminum will be some serious coin.
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#5
I think you are.over building it. We used a fourwheeler crate and some additional steel for the last two I built. More than capable of carrying the weight you have and some. Ive put quite a bit in the club trailer.and had it up 55mile. No matter what else you do I'd really try to run similar size tire and bolt pattern.
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#6
Check out gojeep's stuff. He has done a couple and uses them to traverse Australia. I've followed a few of his buids on NAXJA. He has one with disc brakes. Off road couplers. One with a tent. All homemade so to speak. There are links to specs and more. Keep in mind it is all metric.

http://jeep-xj.info/Trailers.htm
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#7
I have been wanting to do something similar except I think you might be thinking a little too small. Remember, Small trailers are harder to control.

For my plans, I purchased a used 4x6 Lowe's trailer on the cheap last year to use as a base. Ultimately, I would like to build a box on it that I can store supplies in but have it sturdy enough that I can park the quad on it. Then I would like it to have a frame that extends above the height of the quad to mount a rooftop tent on. My issue is that I have no metal fabricating skills. So if anyone wants to volunteer their time and labor, let's talk.

For wheels and tires, the axle on the trailer now is 5x4.5 so I was going to put on some adapters so it can run 5x5s to match the Jeep. Just worried about the tires clearing the frame of the trailer.
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#8
I was thinking about a Harbor Freight, Lowes or one of the Whitespruce ATV trailers (the one you actually tow with an ATV). I still like the thought of making the tandem axle one onto what I need. See: http://www.whitespruce.com/2013-bosski-t...ak-i256750

It has to be small...as a big trailer will hang you up worse on a trail....but Alaska isnt a place to wheel a trailer.
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#9
The box I have is 4'x6'. I think we could build something real nice out of it.
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#10
akcowboy76 Wrote:The box I have is 4'x6'. I think we could build something real nice out of it.

Could you post a pic? My brain had a different image in mind...something solid steel and bigger than my Jeep!

I wont be able to eye it in person until the weekend.
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#11
[Image: me6y6y8e.jpg]



Here is what I have. I might get better pics once it warms up.
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#12
[Image: 4ajyhyvy.jpg]
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#13
Is it on a frame?
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#14
Nope just the bed.
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#15
1st off thank you for bringing my calender to me. as far as a trailer goes i would pile up everything i'd plan on taking on my longest trip, i mean everything including the kitchen sink!(best cook stove). only the things that absolutly can't get wet go in. be even greater if you organize every thing into decent tots and label them stack them to roughly in the order of 1st needed to least and heaviest on bottom. you can figure out how big of a trailer you might need also when home everything can be put away quickly and found for next trip just as quickly. this also helps in an emergancy power outages like the ones we just recently had. also keeps critters out at home and trail.when i was a kid my mom packed a full size van with 2 weeks worth of gear and food for 3 boys and 2 adults and we never needed anything and we weren't crowded at all in the van.you'll probly discover that you only need a 4'x5' to 4'x6' trailer with a 2' tall side.you can add railing on top for other gear or roof top tent,canoe. i'd go with the same size tires as your jeep that way you'll always have a spare or 2 for trailer or jeep no matter what happens. that's my 2 cents when i was single and riding my motor cycle solo that's the way i packed and never got stranded other than 1 snow storm at paxxon lake pull off and i got lucky the next morning road grader cam through and helped me get on the road. and home i went.
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#16
oh yeah don't forget 5-10 gallons of water and your 1st aid kit as well as an extra hub and bearings for trailer pre-assembled if possible not every parts store carries the same products and you don't want to wait or modify your trailer on what's supposed to be a fun trip. had a bearing failure in 1982 that ended up taking 2 days in canada to fix if we'd have packed the extra hub and bearings we'd been back on the road in 30-40 minutes instead of paying to have axle stub cut off and new one welded on to use availble local parts to get on the road.also i myself would add trailer brake axle and controler to trailer extra stopping power is always good. your jeep brakes are all ready doing alot of work with all thats been done to it add another 1000-1500 lbs of weight pushing your jeep with a loaded trailer including trailer weight and it's just a matter of time before some foolish tourist or critter gets out in front of you and you need to stop fast and in control you'll be happy you added trailer brakes.
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#17
Wink
Hey John...I gotta pull the bastard with my TJ...not my Superduty!

i did pile up what I need for a week (like my meet n greet set up) and to wheel with the girls (55 mile etc).

A small 4x6 or so would work...about 45 cubic feet for dry...exterior fuel, water and CO2 tank.
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#18
i understand that , that's one of the reasons i suggested to spend the extra on trailer brakes. i would guess that the towing capability is around 2500 lbs on your jeeps stock braking system. what i was tring to get at was your need for your jeep. estamated gear weight and trailer weight itself will come in around about 1000lbs max when fully loaded.thats 1000 lbs pushing your jeep when stopping on a short wheel base even in the best of conditions this can be dangerous for the best of drivers. and i'm planning on building one similar in about a year. my final wheelers will be bronco 2 and vw bug. also i've got 3 kids 2 dogs and 2 adults and planning on several 1 - 2 week trips for us.add fishing and camping gear plus food it starts adding up.also add in my insane predication for being self-sufficant.and i want to get in some winter weekend runs. the kids need to experiance alaska for all it's worth like i have.
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#19
I was actually looking at 1/4 ton military trailer or a Harbor Freight trailer with the Dinoot fiberglass kit that will eventually have a factory lid:
http://www.dinoot.com/m-series/models/m-series-model

Empty trailer abot 200 pounds
Loaded with water and fuel <600 pounds....those are my targets.
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#20
great now to figure in costs and origination papers for regestration. dmv has gotten stiffer on titling trailers and vehicles. so save every reciept down to last nut and bolt that way title,tags and adding to your insurance will be easy. also being you have your girls a little beefing up and you could add roof top tent and flip up shelves for dining and prep creature comforts in the long run. makes it easier on you and continuing to keep the girls interested in the future.besides waking up high dry and warm always makes trips more enjoyable. you don't have to spend big just plan on a solid flip over lid with support to add your favorite tent. i've been looking at these type of trailers a long time even before marrage and kids ,i'm not getting any younger and wish to continue an outdoors lifestyle. i figure after my vehicle mods on the vw & bronco 2 max towing should not exceed 900lbs not just because of towing weight capability but power to weight as well. b2 will only have 145hp max and i'd still like to climb hills and pass people as needed without over taxing my rigs cooling system when half blocked possibly by mud and bugs. or have a brake over heating problem. i'm hoping to be in the $2000.00 limit when done. my box will be made of re-inforced fiber glass and bed liner inside and out for longevity and minimual maintance.
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#21
oh if you use that trailer design add a bottom to tub to make it removable and that trailer would work great as a single atv trailer with tub off. always trail maintance , appliances or other things a double duty trailer could be used for. i find it easier some times to pull a small trailer than to drive my 1 ton long bed crew cab for small jobs as well as i already have to park it in the back parking lots for ease , so why not use a smaller vehicle that gets better mpgs when you can?
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#22
There are several trailers coming up for auction theough DRMO. gov liquidation.
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#23
You may consider buying a 60.5" wms to wms trailer axle to match you Jeep track with, especially if you run the same tires and wheel back spacing on the trailer. 2-1/2" wider isn't all too bad, but if you can order the correct width for the same price it would be ideal.
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#24
Looks like the DRMO sale fixed my trailer problem
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#25
Did you pick one up already Doc?
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#26
Bid on it online today and looks like I got it.
1/4 ton trailer.

Gotta figure out the pickup part.
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