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71 Toyota FJ 40
#1
Excerpts from my build thread on IH8MUD: **** I will fix all of the broken links when I get home, Army does not like Photobucket ****

My first order of parts:

Specter Off Road
item qty description amount
__________________________________________________ _____________________
950-CLUB 1 Club SOR Membership *Special Order NO $49.99
310-102A 1 SOR Front Driver Bottom Pad- $30.95
310-72D 1 SOR Front Deluxe Vinyl Seat Covers- $275.40
310-102B 1 SOR Front Driver Back Pad- $30.95
310-102C 1 SOR Front Passenger Bottom Pad- $36.05
310-102D 1 SOR Front Passenger Large Back Pad- $29.25
310-102E 1 SOR Front Passenger Small Back Pad- $18.70
310-9000A 1 Front Bench Seat Metal Panel Hardware $17.00
310-9003 1 Bag Of Hog Rings - $6.38
172-40 1 FJ40 Dash Cover- $69.49
176-40A 1 Turn Signal Switch - $81.97
140-100A-TBL 1 SOR Sun Visor Covers (Black Tuff Duck $39.10
282-40 1 SOR Rear UB40 Fender Flares- $137.49

Total $822.72
Cool Cruisers Of Texas
Name Code Qty Each Options
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Lift Kit - FJ40x HFS HFS-Lift-Kit-FJ40x 1 1180.47 Boots = 4ea./Black
Extreme - 1961-7/80 - 4" Bushings = 24ea./Red
Shackles - HFS™ - FJ40 T1079set-S10187-S10189x8 1 212.15
63-80- Set 4ea - 2-1/2" -5/8 Grease Bolts
Front Axle Rebld Kit, SH-1 1 118.86 Complete Aussie Kit, 1968 to 9/'75
Body Mount Kit, Red Poly KT04003RE 1 174.71 - '58 to 12/78 - FJ/BJ-40
Tie Rods - 5 PCE Kit - A45040-69045 1 78.83 '63-'84 -FJ40 w/Free Spare Boot Kit
Emblem - FJ40-1958-12/74- 65450-70021 1 37.46 Select = Emblem
Driver's Qtr Pnl - w/Gasket-65462-70010(+$6.90)
T-O-Y-O-T-A
Emblem 4WD - FJ40 BJ40 - 65453-70012 1 36.80 Select = Emblem
58-12/78 - TOYOTA w/Gasket-65463-70010 (+$3.91)
Mirror Arms & OEM Style Gray-87902-60030-SW-5029-A-F 1 104.81 Select = All-Flat-Glass (Gray) Heads -Telescoping - Hinge Mount- Pair
Shims ~ Spring ~ HFS ~ HFS 1 20.83 Select = 6 Deg Shims w/Pins(+$3.00) Pair
Subtotal 1964.92
Shipping 0.00
Tax 0.00
Total 1964.92

JT Outfitters-
1 x Weather Stripping Kit for Land Cruiser FJ40 $69.95
1 x Windshield Frame Gasket Toyota Land Cruiser FJ40 e-74 $79.95
1 x Kick Out Vent Gasket for Toyota Land Cruiser FJ40 FJ45 $8.49
1 x Front Disc Brake Kit Toyota Land Cruiser FJ40 FJ45 FJ55 $549.95
Metal Tech
Metal Tech FJ40 Tube Doors
SKU: MT-FJ40-2500 1 $319.95
Man-A-Fe
40RA-SSB
4+Plus FJ40 Rock Sliders with Step Early-1979
Review Item 1 $250.00 $250.00

Some stuff I did last September when I was home on leave:

[Image: IMG_1062.jpg]
Passenger seat before:
[Image: IMG_1056.jpg]
Passenger seat bottom and frame almost complete:
[Image: IMG_1058.jpg]
Metal Tech Tube Doors
[Image: IMG_1066.jpg]
Man-A-Fre Sliders
[Image: IMG_1068.jpg]

Factory Seat refurb:

Just need to finish the seat backs
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Took apart the headlight assembly and cleaned it out, got the chrome ring all shiny again (before and after)
[Image: IMG_1110.jpg]
[Image: IMG_1117.jpg]
Some notes on the Metal tech tube doors. I am very happy with the overall look and finish of the product before installation. On the other hand some things I am not to pleased with.
1.) Where the latch hits the striker, and the slots in the striker for the bolts are to far apart.
2.) Give me a tab so I can attach the arm to keep the door from swinging all the way open and hitting the fender ( I will do this myself when I get back )
3.) I understand the full wrap of the tube on the back of the door, but it interrupts the flow of the body lines...I can live with it..just being picky now.
[Image: IMG_1116.jpg]
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On the other hand I am VERY VERY happy with the Man-A-Fre sliders, perfect fit. I am considering trimming about 2 inches off the bottom of the tub so I can pull these up a bit higher, Also have the completed drivers seat done.
[Image: IMG_1118.jpg]

Using primarily and angle grinder, sander, and my cordless drill with wire wheels.
Typical rust being found once you start clearing off some of the paint. This is about 2 hours worth of work including removing the seats, seat belts and rollbar.
[url=http://https://fbcdn-sphotos-a.akamaihd.net/hph.../IMG][/URL]
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[Image: 549304_340162009383262_100001683984515_8...6962_n.jpg]
1st coat of Herculiner in. Supposed to wait 4 hours between coats.
[Image: 524300_340710949328368_100001683984515_9...0170_n.jpg]
Sanded and repainted the fuel tank and fuel tank straps:
[Image: 577362_340711005995029_100001683984515_9...3250_n.jpg]
[Image: 305581_340711025995027_100001683984515_9...6479_n.jpg]

Last pic here has the tunnel cover and all 3 of my vehicles. 1971 FJ40, 2010 Ram 1500 (HEMI), and my 93 4Runner.
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I resurfaced the cluster too while I was bored...
[url=http://https://fbcdn-sphotos-a.akamaihd.net/hph.../IMG][/URL]
Got it all in and back on the road. I just put the roll bar in so I can drive to and from work without hassle from the MP's here on post. I will eventually pull it out and redo it as well.
[Image: 523756_342801295786000_100001683984515_9...2825_n.jpg]
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If you look at some of the older interior pictures you will notice the rear compartment heater hoses went along the transmission tunnel and got int the way of the passenger, not anymore. I also took the bracket it sat on and chucked it into my scrap metal bin and mounted it lower to the floor.

New seats shippre free from Amazon:

[Image: 582306_347954651937331_100001683984515_9...5995_n.jpg]

I had the new fuse block I won off ebay come in today and decided to fix something that was bothering me. I got the wife out and she worked on the apron emblems while I redid some wiring...
[url=http://http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v664/9.../IMG][/URL]
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In this picture I moved a switch to my electric fuel pump. It was a unattractive switch that you can see in earlier pictures. I had an older toggle switch that I moved next to the choke. If you look at this picture the little chrome button is where the switch used to be.
[url=http://http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v664/9.../IMG][/URL]

Here a few shots of my wife's handy work, when they have dried enough for me to remove the tape I will post those pics.
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****UPDATE**** Finished working on the emblems.
[Image: 301740_348605185205611_100001683984515_9...0869_n.jpg]

This is all the work ahead of me still, shelf with nothing but parts for the FJ, on the ground to the right are the leaf packs. Not pictured are the new wheels that are under a work bench.
[url=http://http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v664/9.../IMG][/URL]
...and I got it almost all the way back together...
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Bolt hole:
[url=http://http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v664/9.../IMG][/URL]
Counter sunk hole so the hex head fits flush with top of the knob:
[url=http://http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v664/9.../IMG][/URL]
Used a rubber mallet and got the bolt in nice and flush:
[url=http://http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v664/9.../IMG][/URL]
Nice washer:
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Installed:
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Cleaned up an old rusted bumper. It is a bit longer than I like and will get shortened up a bit later down the road. Its a good place to start though:
[url=http://http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v664/9.../IMG][/URL]
Its on...but I hate those trailer lights:
[url=http://http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v664/9.../IMG][/URL]
Got some LED lights..$50 for all of them:
[url=http://http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v664/9.../IMG][/URL]
Boom new LED tail lights on:
[url=http://http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v664/9.../IMG][/URL]

.....and this is where I am at now.

Some area of concerns I have:

Rear part of the frame has stage one million cancer and needs to be patched before my lift goes on.

Gears and lockers installed in my spare axles as well as installing disk brakes on the axles.

Power Steering.

Insulate hard top and tub for Alaska's warm winters.

and the list will go on forever...
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#2
Looks like you're doing nice work, and of course, just getting started!
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#3
I believe alaska tent and tarp could hook you up with a very well done custom insulation job.
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#4
For a very hefty price. Custom canvas is usually cheaper.
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#5
Put in a bunch of work this weekend. ripped apart the whole passenger side, redid some wiring and got the bucket seats in. Never made it to Pete's but it is on my to do list.

[Image: 304564_388518677880928_734749549_n.jpg]
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#6
Looking nice.
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#7
Neighbor found an old winch plate when he was cleaning out his garage to move..it looked like a good start. It is bolted through the factory tow hook holes, as well as welded to the top bumper brace.

[Image: IMG_1542.jpg]

TMR Light mount ( with bottle opener ) Smittybilt XRC 8
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and some PIAA lights I had. Going to wire it all up this weekend after I install this into the hardtop:
[Image: IMG_1541.jpg]
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#8
that dynamat is awesome stuff. spendy but wel worth it. it insulates, and keeps water off the metal nicely too. Smile
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#9
Had a bit of time tonight. Switch plate I ordered came in so I decided to install my ARB switches. I also took the time to countersink the screws in it for ++++s and giggles. All of this is in preparation of me knocking out all of my new wiring this weekend. On a side note I am picking up a welder from my neighbor..$300 for a Lincoln SA 200. Works perfectly, its what has been doing all of my welding so far..I just need a small trailer for it.

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#10
Looks good. Have you already installed the lockers into the axles?
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#11
88XJ Wrote:Looks good. Have you already installed the lockers into the axles?

Not yet. Just cleaning everything up and wanted to bundle all of the wiring through the firewall before I sealed it up. I will need plenty of help with the gears and lockers..plus input on 30spline shafts and mini truck hubs for the front.
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#12
Not sure on the lockers, but I am going to try and install my ARB's for the cruiser hopefully next month.
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#13
Not too difficult to install the lockers. Just setting up gears again. Drilling a hole in the right place and call it good. Oh it's actually a little more involved than that.
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#14
chevy kev does great gear work Smile
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#15
88XJ Wrote:Not sure on the lockers, but I am going to try and install my ARB's for the cruiser hopefully next month.

My lockers are ARB Air Lockers as well. I also have new gears and the master install kit. My issue I believe is going to be with the stock axle shafts being 27 spline and they only made 30 spline ARB's for my FJ40. I also believe that I will need to get mini truck spindles from an older solid axle yota. But none of this will stop me from going ahead and build the thirds up with the gears and lockers.
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#16
stock shafts should break if locked in. .. in my own experience this summer :knockout:
can you sleeve the tubes for added strength?
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#17
Not absolutely true petey. You have to consider a few things. The weight power and tire size. Along with driving style. I run stock shafts in my axles without issues. Ujoints are another story. But haven't even tore many of those up.
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#18
Great looking vehicle! Really nice work being done.

Pete - thanks for the mention!

Gears and ARB installs can be more involved than they seem at first. takes a bit of specialty tools as well.

ARB's also seem to have perpetual seal leaking issues up here in the colder climate. Make sure the copper tube is run well away from the gears/carrier and is in a place where it has very limited movement. I have seen the tubes get pulled into the carrier/gears when the oil thickens due to the cold (Jackrabbit George had this happen several times!) I suggest running synthetic to help a bit with this problem.


I do have a special gear/locker install rate for AO members if you're interested.
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#19
ak_petey Wrote:stock shafts should break if locked in. .. in my own experience this summer :knockout:
can you sleeve the tubes for added strength?

Not completely true. I wheeled 4 years on 37's with stock shafts and an ARB locker up front before throwing in some Longfeilds. Not saying it wont happen though, I had a buddy brenade his Birf with the same setup I had. The trick is to not force a turn when the locker is engaged.
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#20
again this was my experienceBig Grin
oh! and use synthetic gear oil. or as thin as you can during the winter months when its cold. I was having air seal issues like kevin mentioned.
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#21
I run AMSOIL full synthetic in everything, had good luck with that stuff. I really would like to get my gears and lockers installed, it is something I need to learn as well though so if someone has the tools and the time I can pay some if need be but I want to be involved in it Big Grin
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#22
Today I changed the air filter and plugs, something I should have checked right after I got it from the PO but it was running good. I also started the insulation of the hardtop using dynamat. Also got my 1969 Lincoln SA200 dropped off...$300 bucks seemed like a fair price..and it works like a dream.

WTH is in my cylinder to make the plug look like this:
[Image: IMG_1562.jpg]

Hardtop is all cleaned up:
[Image: IMG_1552.jpg]

Started in the front middle, included the lip so it might seal better with the windsheild:
[Image: IMG_1554.jpg]
[Image: IMG_1553.jpg]

I would roll it out by peeling a bit of the backing off and smoothing the dynamat out as I went:
[Image: IMG_1556.jpg]

Easy part was done, it took 6 of the 9 sheets:

[Image: IMG_1558.jpg]

Now onto the cutting:
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All done:
[Image: IMG_1561.jpg]

and this is how much was left over:

[Image: IMG_1560.jpg]

The kit came with 9 sheets that would cover 36 square feet. Was really easy. Once I had the top prepped the actual installation took maybe 45 min. I do plan on buying another kit and doing the sides of the hard top and the tub/firewall.


My welder, time to learn:

[Image: IMG_1564.jpg]
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#23
Sweet work on the insulation.

That plug looks like a mixture of oil fouled, per ignition spark and something floating around damaging the end.
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#24
sweet! stick welding is super fun, but very frustrating if you dont know how.
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#25
akram Wrote:Sweet work on the insulation.

That plug looks like a mixture of oil fouled, per ignition spark and something floating around damaging the end.

That was by far the worst one of the 6. 4 others just looked like they were burning hot, and one other on cyl #5 looked a bit wet. I do need to get the timing set and make sure that the fuel pressure coming off the electric fuel pump is not just dumping into the carb...which I will rebuild here soon.

ak_petey Wrote:sweet! stick welding is super fun, but very frustrating if you dont know how.

Never welded a second in my life, but I have some scrap to play with. The only things I need to start are some gloves, a hood and maybe a jacket.
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#26
JunkRunner Wrote:I run AMSOIL full synthetic in everything, had good luck with that stuff.

Amsoil is greta stuff, just remember NOT to use synthetic when breaking in gears!

JunkRunner Wrote:I really would like to get my gears and lockers installed, it is something I need to learn as well though so if someone has the tools and the time I can pay some if need be but I want to be involved in it Big Grin

I have done this many times - having someone help and explaining the steps and process as we go. Best way to learn (in my experience.)
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