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71 Toyota FJ 40
Stuff came in today.... gotta love that 15% off from trail gear.

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Got the garage a little bit setup, at least enough to tinker on the FJ40. Sometimes you need to go back to move forward towards the correct goal. In this case FJ60 axle going in (2.75 inches wider and bigger knuckles) and a shackle reversal. I will be outboarding the spring hangers to match the perches on the axles. I have a complete FJ60 axle for the rear as well.


At this point I must decide. stay SUA maintain a low COG or go SOA. SOA will cost me more in steering components but "better/more" articulation.


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looks good ! how far do you have to go out? i have an idea for more articulation stolen from a ford site.
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Do you gain much articulation with spring over conversion? You talking multiples of inches or just a couple inches? With such a short wheelbase, money may be better spent since it looks like you have enough droop to handle 55 mile without looking like CAs samuri going up.


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Dr Brian Wrote:Do you gain much articulation with spring over conversion? You talking multiples of inches or just a couple inches? With such a short wheelbase, money may be better spent since it looks like you have enough droop to handle 55 mile without looking like CAs samuri going up.

Example of a spring under done right.
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4 rivets down 8 more to go. Fairly easy to do, just a little labor intensive. Measured from hole to hole..42 inches. Pre-drill pilot holes in the rivets then went up to a bigger bit and got the heads off. Cleaned off the frame a little and did some beer math. FJ60 axle spring perches are 2 3/4 inches wider than an FJ40s. That means I need to outboard the hangers 1 3/8 inch on each side. As far as I have gotten today.


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CA's still has short springs on his = no flex. if you keep stock spring length on a zuk and arch the springs for lift they start to look like "U" real quick. Which end up looking like "V" after a while. Stay spring under.
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Zukman Wrote:CA's still has short springs on his = no flex. if you keep stock spring length on a zuk and arch the springs for lift they start to look like "U" real quick. Which end up looking like "V" after a while. Stay spring under.

Pretty much settled on staying SUA. Lower COG and still have enough articulation to handle anything I have done so far in Alaska. Plus it will keep me from spending more money on a high steer kit.
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Front hangers are in. need to box the rest of it in.
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Progress is always good.
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looking good, shane is correct about sua . if you go over =6-7" lift no real extra flex upward other than tire clearance. but if you feel later you need more flex find leaf springs that are longer but center pin to rear mnt are same and add longer shackle to adjust for length and height. on for ranger/bronco 2 explores we use 64" chevy rear leaves for 3" lift and loose overload for flex. if more flex need then time for shackle flip over rear hanger mnt. but our rear spring hangers are all the way out board of frame.
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also you have limited your flex on the front if you don't keep your shackles up front. your upwards travel at rear will be limited by hitting frame when compressed. if you look at the tan cruizer pic up top(your earlier post) shackles are up front allowing that flex and driver spring to completely flatten out as well as possibly going up past flat. little softer ride on highway and street to.
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FJ40's springs have offset center pins.
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Zukman Wrote:FJ40's springs have offset center pins.
<---this

I have my springs flipped (longside towards the rear) to push the axle forward about 2 inches. The shackle reversal pushed it back about to inches so hope fully I can use one of the drive shafts I have sitting here. It should better align the front axle under the fender better than it was without the reversal.

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I am sure I will have plenty of articulation. I have 4 inch lift springs and 2 1/2 inch lift shackles. The shackle reversal will lift the front another two inches so I might have to make my own custom shackles or take a leaf or two out of the packs.
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Got one side boxed in. Used this opportunity to finish off the rest of the cutoff disks I had. Tomorrow I WILL burn in the rest and have the springs hung.

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In keeping with the tradition of this build...change number..something or other.

LM7 and 4WD TH350 are in the garage. Looking for a early 80s Toyota split T Case. When I did the shackle reversal up front it lifted up about 2 more inches. Once I install a lighter engine it will go up more (probably going to need 38s or 40s when I am done). Pring over on the rear, perches and anti wrap from Ruff Stuff.




Engine mounts http://www.advanceadapters.com/products/...mount-kit/

Shifter for TH350 http://www.advanceadapters.com/products/...-shifter-/
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http://www.marks4wd.com/engine-conversio...fk224.html

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T-case info: http://www.cruiseroutfitters.com/tech_split_case.html

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Wow, been awhile since I updated this thread >.< hahaha
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Anyone available who is good with exhaust? Need some input into how to route the 2 1/2 inch from the headers back


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Chris this thing is going to be to nice to take on the trail.from your picture your going to need to pull exhaust down drivers side. are you going duels or single. if going single 2 1/2 will be great if duels i'd pull down to 2". and though your headers are pretty i'd heat wrap them and heat sheild or wrap around exhaust by tranny about 2'' to out side to help keep tranny cool and your floor board.also wrapping them will help keep under hood temps down and plug wires safe.
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also pick a muffler with life time warranty that you can get in town easily that fits the space and flows for you engine displacement. i'd also look int ball and socket connection to header . going threw and putting in header flange gasket every 3-6 months sucks. also what o2 sensor are you running ? heated or non? 1 or 2? this dictates how far the sensor needs to be from the heads for proper function.

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#1 drivers side is where the exhaust will route, as of right now two into one. #2 Headers are ceramic coated by AA and wrapping them will void warranty. The headers are designed to use the slip over style of exhaust connections with a clamp. I do like the idea of shielding the transmission as well as the bottom of the tub from the excess exhaust heat. #3 Running two O2 sensors that are factory from the 01 donor Silverado. I have a new muffler from a friend that I am fairly certain will work.

That being said routing from the passenger to drivers side without interfering with drive shaft and hanging to low will be a challenge.

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did you get a diy kit? wish i had the time i'm a little swamped
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Have not purchased anything yet.

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try using abs or pvc to mock up your exhaust including hangers . try and leave 1 1/2-2" around tranny . once your fit up jack up right front tire to see if drive line hits
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