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71 Toyota FJ 40
Talk to Bill about the FJ axles. I know he has some just not sure what he is doing with them.
Met another cruiser head today, must say I am a bit envious of his collection. He has three FJ70's two FJ55's two FJ60's and two FJ40's and three parts FJ40's. Really good people though. He helped me out with my carb issue and squared me away with the 4speed transmission and manual T-Case. I need to do some research and figure out what year the Trans and T Case came out of to figure exactly what needs to be done for me to put in my t-cases lower gears.
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I like tinkering so I tore into the donor carb, which i believe is off of a 75. I am not sure what month because the housing is a bit rough between the year and day portion of the numbers.

My 74 carb on the left and donor 75 on the right, made a lot of changes on the 75.
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Some pretty obvious changes but I needed a smaller part:

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Here is an example of some small internal changes. My 74 on the left and the donor on the right with the spring from the donor in the middle. The 74 stopper has a flat top and smooth sides. The 75 stopper has a thicker top with a tiny groove on the bottom part of the top. If you look closer it also has a little hump that goes from the top down the side just a hair. I am going to use it any ways guess it was just an improvement over the old design and wont affect the function of the carb in a negative way.
So did you go see Bill?
Frame is done, just need to ge +++ to Kyles (MOFO) garage. I need to get my hands on/order some 89/90 F250 shock towers to weldonto the frame, work in my shackle reversal and move the shackle/spring hangers on the rear back a couple inches to stretch the wheel base out a bit. I ordered a new rebuilt carb hope to see that mid next week, sooner would be better.

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Checked in on my frame progress. All sand blasted and ready to go into the garage saturday.
Ford shock towers and some frame re-enforcemt is what is next on the agenda. This is where the build gets more interesting.

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I am aboot to do some hard core bolt on shenanigans right here! Have my donor frame in Kyles garage (yes that's him sitting all angry like, and my wife playing Mega Jump on her phone) Ignore the DANA axles, that's more bolt on Shenanigans for the silver TJ. The axles we are going to build for my cruiser are being seasoned in a foot of snow an -30 degree weather outside. Going to order the EZ wiring harness here soon...I have no brake lights, and now the turn signals make the flashers go as well as the cigarette lighter clicks on and off.

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Ford Shock towers are here:

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Rebuilt Carb is in. Only will idle if choke is out. If anyone out there is good at timing and setting up carbs a quick hands on how to would be appreciated:

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Sorry haven't been on in a bit, tis the season I guess. For those of you who do not have me on Facebook or choose to not subscribe to such things here is what I have been up to:

Working on the rear bumper, and template for boxing in the rear of the frame. Once I box in the rear I can finish some bracing of the rear bumper and redo the shackle mounts.

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Considering this is the second thing I have ever welded in my life, and with no instruction other than youtube I think I did a decent job.

Finished boxing in the rear, and welded the bumper in place. Going to pick up some tubing tomorrow to finish the triangulation from the bumper to the frame. the remount the rear shackle hangers and the install the rear axle.

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The factory bumper (as you know) is a "C" channel that sits flush with the rear of the frame and overlaps the frame on the top giving a surface for the body mounts to bolt onto. I want my bumper to barely stick out from the tub so when I build the tire carrier it is close to the body. Installing the body mounts with this type of bumper will be an interesting feat. Looking at SOR's parts page maybe I should run a plate after I put in the bracing on giving the same type of surface as the factory bumper.

You've been busy. Looking good. Just make sure you have good penetration on the welds before grinding them down. I've made the mistake grinding welds down that didn't have the best penetration and I paid for it in the end.
4 Speed transmission is back together, as well as front springs hanging. Dragged the axles inside to thaw out to start tearing them down and rebuild them and disk brake installation. Need to find a good High Steer setup and a 4 speed transmission shift lever next.

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Mine is a trail gear set up. If you want to look at it for quality before you order you are more than welcome too.
For those that missed it, the front drum axle in my last post was from a 1967, which is completely useless to me. So I had to find another. A 1979 would have been preferred but beggars cant be choosers. I managed to get a 1977 front axle with disk brakes. It still has the small pattern steering arms and birfield. I am currently working on mocking up the rear shackle hanger location as well as the front shock tower locations. I have my knuckle rebuild kit, rear axle rebuild kit, power steering gearbox bracket, and rear disk brake brackets on the way.

1967 axle shafts are course spline ball and claw style:
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Yanked this axle out at negative 25

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Started stripping the new axle:

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Rear axle has been stripped, cleaned, painted and waiting for new bearings and seals:

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Progress is looking good. Get ahold of me when you are working. I may be able to come by and supervise so it goes slower. Big Grin
I plan on working on it both Saturday and Sunday. It will be at Kyles.
Caveat to the last post, if anyone wants to come help me set my front and rear 3rds you are more than welcome to come pull up a chair and laugh as I do this for the first time :-). Shoot me a PM or give me a call/text and I will tell you how to get the Kyles. I will be there before noon and wont leave until complete.
I may be able to swing by on sunday, possibly saturday for a short while. Depends on if this idiot wanting my stove shows up or not.
The man in brown left a couple packages on my doorstep. They arrived much sooner than expected.

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get something to hold 3rd member to set pinion torque . once its set on crush sleeve rest is pretty straight foward our yota axles are nice to set . i seem to have to alot every race season ..
Fix_It Wrote:get something to hold 3rd member to set pinion torque . once its set on crush sleeve rest is pretty straight foward our yota axles are nice to set . i seem to have to alot every race season ..
I have a craftsman work bench thingy to use, cant think of the correct name but you will see it in one of the pictures.

Tonight I cleaned up the 77 front axle and cut the knuckle gussets I had tacked onto the other axle off. Keep in mind that the hole in the gusset is for the lower shock bolt, also another gusset gets welded to the bottom side of the knuckle ball Then cut the shock mounts off the new axle and decided to try my hand at making some diff armor.

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77 FJ40 Front diff. New NITRO 4:88 ring and pinion with ARB install. This is my first time ever doing gears and before I call it good a second and yes maybe third, fourth, fifth etc opinions would make me feel better. First pic is drive, second is coast, last is just cause I took it. [Image: popcorn.gif]

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Looks good, the FJ40 is coming along nicely. When do you think it will be together and on the trail?
88XJ Wrote:Looks good, the FJ40 is coming along nicely. When do you think it will be together and on the trail?

I hope to get it drivable by Memorial day this year. The diffs were the big hurdle, everything after that is not as monumental. At some point in a month or so I will have a build part where we pull the tub, engine transmission off the current FJ40 clean it up and set it on the new frame.
Cool, don't plan it over the Denali crossing and I will be there. When I did my gears I was glad to have Kevin there teaching me, it's not hard but it is very time consuming and it has lots of variables that can be very subjective.
Looks good. Did you check it in more than one spot?
akram Wrote:Looks good. Did you check it in more than one spot?

Some will say its not necessary. But I think it is.
Checking the pattern in multiple spots for consistancy (I usually do 3) is a good way to double check your work. It's especially important if you skipped checking the carrier and then the installed ring gear for runout. Maximum allowable ring gear runout for Toyota drop-ins is .0028" IFR.

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