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71 Toyota FJ 40
#27
That is a sweet deal on the welder! Those older Lincolns were tough machines.

Stick welding is a bit more complicated than wire feed - one thing i never really understood about it is what style stick to use with what metals. Some is better for cast, or thicknesses, or... Need to learn some of that myself. Stick welding vertical lines can be really interesting! And upside down is even more "fun" Once you get the hang of it that thing will stick just about anything together.
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#28
picking this up today. http://fairbanks.craigslist.org/pts/3227937115.html I am borrowing a friends car hauler trailer until wed. On Wed I need to haul it back to him dumping off the scrap along the way. The frame is in really solid condition, it was coated with some sealant but it is peeling off and only has surface rust. If anyone has sometime over the next few days to help me strip it down I would appreciate it. I will be saving a few items but the frame is what I am after. It has a good front axle, and a 1F block still on/in it. The tub is trash but I will keep the emblems and the marker lights.
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#29
I may have some time after work during the week. Just let me know when.
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#30
akram Wrote:I may have some time after work during the week. Just let me know when.

I got it in the driveway tonight. Got the passenger side fender off. Been scavenging all of the good bolts as I go through. The Drivers side is almost off as well. Hopefully the weather is a bit more favorable for he next few days so I can get all of this done before Wed. Tomorrow I hope to get the tub off the frame and post up some pictures so you can see what I am working with. I cant wait to get it down to the frame and start cleaning it up.
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#31
What time you going to work on it Monday? I can come by after work to lend a hand for a little while. Unless something changes.
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#32
akram Wrote:What time you going to work on it Monday? I can come by after work to lend a hand for a little while. Unless something changes.

As soon as I get home....about 1700 ( 5:00 PM ) for those civilian types :-P
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#33
Think I am done for the day, the tub is gutted only a couple emblems a marker light and spare tire carrier to get off it then start working on the body mount bolts.

[Image: 621690_393655530700576_42262691_o.jpg]


I have pulled a lot of usable sell able parts from it. Some I will clean up and save for back up parts or just nostalgic items.
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#34
Ok I'll be by. You still live in the same house on post?
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#35
akram Wrote:Ok I'll be by. You still live in the same house on post?

Hope the weather plays along. Yup, same house: 4438 Alsace Loop. Anyone need a FJ40 front axle?
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#36
The best way I found is to unbolt the body from the frame, go to the dump / K&K Recycle and have them lift the body off for you. I might be able to help, but I have to see how tomorrow goes for me.
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#37
I agree with Donald. Done that several times. But I don't know how late they are there.
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#38
I am not going to make it, I just got off work and still need to go make dinner for the family. Give me a call if you still need some help, I will probably be able to help around 9pm if you still need a hand stripping it or?.
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#39
I just got home from helping Chris. All the body bolts are out. After a lot of persuasion with a grinder. Motor is loose and ready to go as well.
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#40
akram Wrote:I just got home from helping Chris. All the body bolts are out. After a lot of persuasion with a grinder. Motor is loose and ready to go as well.

Thanks for stopping by Mel! He pretty much said it all 8 body mount bolts had to be either cut or grinder out. Mel was a busy man, Upper shock bolts, 4 bolts for engine mount, bolts for steering gear box among other things. We scavenged pretty much any useful bolt and nut as well as some items I can ebay or use on my rig. Tomorrow I need to drag it to K&K recycleing and get the tub, block and axle offloaded. After that run the trailer and frame through a nice pressure washing then offload the frame into the garage. I cant imagine it being to heavy for one or two people to move.
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#41
Bugler :TAPS is Being Played:

[Image: 394319_394339177298878_1891244749_n.jpg]


Look, it has a new warm home, where it will be treated well and tended to like it should have been all its life:

[Image: 265546_394365600629569_1516790407_o.jpg]
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#42
Sand/media blasting and local purchasing of POR..who, what, when, and where. this frame is begging for a good blasting and some POR :-)
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#43
Sand blasting material can be bought in larger amounts and usually cheapest through Fairbanks Block and materials over by Greer tank. That's the only place i've ever bought it from and known others to get it from. There may be other places that have it cheaper I just don't know of them. POR you can check the prices at hitech coatings over on Van Horn road. NAPA did have it when they had the Van Horn store open as well.
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#44
akram Wrote:Sand blasting material can be bought in larger amounts and usually cheapest through Fairbanks Block and materials over by Greer tank. That's the only place i've ever bought it from and known others to get it from. There may be other places that have it cheaper I just don't know of them. POR you can check the prices at hitech coatings over on Van Horn road. NAPA did have it when they had the Van Horn store open as well.

What about renting a sand/media blaster ?
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#45
Rental Zone has them...don't know about blasting material.
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#46
Dr Brian Wrote:Rental Zone has them...don't know about blasting material.
hi tec auto paint has por products in stock they're on corner of van horn and lathrop they also carry body tools , grinder and da's at affordable pricing. they also carry 2k paint products in aresole mixed for you this is quality catalized paint just like factory talk with mike hardy he's a freind of mine and a excellent painter tell him john from college collision sent you.
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#47
if you don't want the sand blasting mess in your garage/house or yard call jose' autobody they do sand blasting or try greer tank and weldingand remember all paints cure properly and reasonably quick at 70 degres and 70 percent humidity.
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#48
I have heard that POR has problem sticking to metal after sandblasting. I once looked up another product that claimed to work better for clean metal. It was in a yellow container, I can't remember the brand but I will try to look it up this weekend.
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#49
Por is awesome if used right. If you sandblast or remove all rust you need to use the prep kit. With that stuff you can put Por on smooth aluminum even. But yes just Por works best if used on rough material. Removing only flaky rust off. They make a lot of other products as well. Including an undercoating product.
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#50
akram Wrote:Por is awesome if used right. If you sandblast or remove all rust you need to use the prep kit. With that stuff you can put Por on smooth aluminum even. But yes just Por works best if used on rough material. Removing only flaky rust off. They make a lot of other products as well. Including an undercoating product.


So I should just wire wheel it a bit and then apply POR? any suggestions about getting the POR to the inside of the boxed portion of the frame?
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#51
Wire wheel is ok but sometimes you still remove more than you really want to. You just don't want smooth metal. As for inside I've seen a few tricks but don't really know if any work. One was with a very large paint brush soping with Por-15 but you waste a bit it seems. Seen people dump the liquid in the frame and try to move the frame around but that just seems way too difficult. A sprayer seemed to work best. An airbrush sprayer may work fairly well.
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#52
I have heard people using soaked rags tied to a rope pulled through the frame rails.
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