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cummins TowPig
#27
NC Machinery did our oil testing for work and charged $25 per test if I remember right.
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#28
money is pretty tight right now. Lots of money has been dumped into the buggy for parts to get it running and tuned. Not to mention patch up a few mistakes.. :banghead:

so cheap oil for now. Ill probably switch back to synthetic this winter before it gets too cold.
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#29
what filter oil combo are you guys using?
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#30
got a little done on this today
took of my sway links and cut them in half, sleeved, then welded them. Will have to see how it holds up. Will post up results soon. (going for a test drive/errands around town)
[Image: swaylinkextention_zpse660e72f.jpg]
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#31
I decided to extend them because the links were rubbing on the coils
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#32
drive went well! drives like its supposed to Smile

no wandering, pulls or noises
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#33
my don thuren track bar blew its first bushing today. I had this track bar on my 01 dodge ram for about 3 years. then moved it to my cummins which has been on for about 2 years. I wheeled the 01 ram a little, not much before swapping over to the cummins.. and it finally gave out. I could push the bushing bolt guide out with my finger and tap the metal housing out with a ball-peen hammer. I checked the heim joint on the other end and it is still good. probably should order a spare!

[Image: blownbushing_zpsd89ba48b.jpg]
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#34
Wow. My stock one has been on since fall 2004 and is doing great.
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#35
I think the geometry for the sway bar links is off, I think they need to be longer and extended away from the axle as they are bumping the springs when the truck's suspension compresses. due to my tinkering with leveling the truck, bad balljoints for years (before I bought and installed the Dynatrac Prosteer ball joints) i am not suprised about the bushing failure. After the bushing was replaced it drives suprisingly straight. There s a little wobble in the steering box but I am not too concerned with it at the moment. Just a mere annoyance. When I have money available for another box I might start playing with the worm gears to see if I can remedy it. But i will leave it be for now. the rest of my steering setup is in good order as thre is no slop. Smile
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#36
removed the sway links. drives and tows fine. links are bent all up from when they were installed before I modified them.
I will think about putting new ones on if I have any issues. might just spend money on aftermarket ones.
kind of want to ramp it but I still have bags in the rear. oh well.
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#37
I have a mystery squeak. only happens at 30 ish mph, can barely hear it when I drive faster.
checked the brake pads and they seem to be in good shape.
rotors have minor wear n tear, could stand to be turned, but I dont think they are the cause. However I could be wrong on that.

when i checked the brakes today the rotor was hot, wheel studs were warm, caliper was warm (touching with my bare hands, yeah yeah I know .. P.P.E.)
I think it may be the bearing, little bit of play in the pinion bearing, I mean little..very little.

so the problem is.... maybe the pinion bearing? or both?!

might be time to do new bearings and swap on my spyntec hubs sooner than I expected.
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#38
If a bearing is squeaking then it's not lubricated/getting lubricated. This means iminent failure sooner than later. If you really think it's a bearing you better get that fixed soon.
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#39
my thoughts exactly. it sounds like a chirping squirrel underneath.
swapping the spyntec kit in this week may prevent me from doing the 55 mile run. Sad
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#40
ak_petey Wrote:my thoughts exactly. it sounds like a chirping squirrel underneath.
swapping the spyntec kit in this week may prevent me from doing the 55 mile run. Sad

We can drag the TowPig off the hill on 3 wheels....then you can really upgrade it!
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#41
^^^^^ Best idea yet.
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#42
not sure how to respond to that?
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#43
CONTROL ARM lentgths-
TOP: 18"
BOTTOM: 19.5"
Caster is at 6*


I am still thinking about going back to a stock front spring.... So if anyone has a set I would trade them out for mine. My drivline angle is MUCH better now but it would be perfect with a stock to 1" inch taller than stock spring.
[Image: 0315141652_zpsb6d9c1ca.jpg]

I had to adjust the track bar bracket by moving it forward an inch to get it in line and out of the spring's way. The bracket was bonking the spring! Every time I hit a large enough bump I would hear a "DOOONG!"

Also, When I pulled the track bar I saw that the bushing was wearing a little as it was not set in straight. So moving it forward was the solution I went with

Removed the shock and spring (use a spring clamp )
Remove the wheel for easy access.
Drop the axle to the ground,
Cut the existing bracket,
Welded a plate to the bottom of the bracket,
Brace anything that looks like it might swivel or bend when under pressure Smile
Moved the track bar bracketry forward,
Welded track bar bracketry to bottom of plate,
Trimmed up the plate
Welded the plate to the bottom portion of the coil spring bucket/bracket.
paint,
re assemble.

All this work for leveling the truck. Should have left it stock. .. :wall:
Took me about 6-7 hours from start to finish. I worked on this last weekend at at a buddy's shop (Mark) and had to make some adjustments (clearance issures) this weekend in the driveway.

[Image: 0315141411_zpsdafb93ab.jpg]

[Image: 0315141650_zps430d4fa5.jpg]

[Image: 0315141446_zps6aea4190.jpg]

[Image: 0315141650a_zps31fc6464.jpg]
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#44
I'm sure there is the suggestion in here to leave it stock. Said it before. Mine is stock for a reason. Never did like a leveling kit. Hurts everytime you put a load on and changes too much. But I guess you are learning stuff and making things work. That's how I know what I know.
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#45
I tend to learn the hard way. But I am pretty happy with the work I have done so far. It does keep me out of trouble Rolleyes and I do enjoy the work. I just got back from driving and it tracks and drives great. no wandering or any funny business.

I may be looking into a small lift for the rear suspension in the future, maybe just use taller blocks or springs so that the rear air bags can be aired down a bit. I was thinking 1-2 inches to match the front with EZ inch from DIY4x or zero rate from ORD. This will probably require U bolts too.

But The next task on the chopping block is the air box. .. the vent doors' hinges are probably broken. This is a factory problem for those who dont know.
My 01 dodge will have to be my DD while I tear out the air box if the project takes too long.
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#46
I still havent fixed the blend doors.. Still on the to do list. need to order the parts. I think I will dive into that project when that when I have the s10 running as the back up vehicle.

Also, my Redhead steering box is installed. Pretty happy with it so far. The box is tight, no play. I wish they could have drilled and tapped a hydro assist port...oh well. I will have to settle for a sector shaft brace kit, the one on my 01 ram works great on my psc box. I reinstalled the sway bar links too, very noticeable difference. while the steering while driving is about 80% better, I think there is a little wobble due to used parts and my front shocks needing to be replaced. Any suggestions on front shock replacements? I would like to go with a decent brand that is quality. On the high end there are King Shocks and on the low end I can go with a rancho 5000 shock.
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