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DP-Rammit
#79
Dropping the Tcase/trans is only going to increase the front driveline angle at the T-case's front output which WILL require a high angle CV driveshaft. $$$. The high pinion will help but you may still have to cut and rotate your inner C's to get runnable drivline angles.
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#80
I am hoping to get the angle I need with the high pinion. might need some help if I have to rotate the C's (never done it). before I determine I need to turn the C's I will have to tack up the coil buckets and test fit everything
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#81
I agree with Ole. while dropping the T-case helps the rear driveline out it worsens the front (especially if you already have issues there). Rotating the axle is the best answer. I don't think a HP axle is going to make that much of a difference.
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#82
the front axle swap is still in the works (gathering parts), it will have to happen this summer sometime.
on the otherhand, I have a rear disc brake conversion to complete.
I have collected almost all of the parts so far. The only parts that are holding me back are getting brake lines made (have to head into ak rubber monday) and maaaaaybe some longer wheel studs. I have aluminum wheels (much thicker than steel wheels) which might be a problem in that my wheel studs wont be long enough- oh, and I got the disc brake conversion from Off-Road Design. I havent ordered the wheels studs yet, but havent really checked around for who has them in town, except schucks. .. they said they had 3 of them in a warehouse.
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#83
still no ford 60 up front. but I got my eye on one I can build up over time. I ended up selling the 1990 F350 parts truck because I couldnt use the kingpin axle. I got all my money back, lost a little time and my rear bumper Tongue
[Image: 0328124737.jpg]
[Image: 0328121327.jpg]

got most of the rear disc brake conversion done, might check around the auto stores soon for some weld-on brake line retainer tabs to replace my zip ties later on.

---------- Post added at 11:36 pm ---------- Previous post was at 10:56 pm ----------

If you haven't read up to this point and skipped ahead I swapped in a 14 bolt rear end a little while back.
I made some time to put together the rear disc conversion kit after collecting parts.

Disc Brake Stuff:
Got my kit from Off-Road Design (ORD)
note, if you are following this for instructions,
*** MAKE SURE YOU CALL ORD AND CONFIRM YOU HAVE THE CORRECT 14 BOLT. THERE ARE SOME MODELS THAT WILL NOT WORK WITH THEIR KIT***

-I first jacked one side of the truck up and threw a jack stand under it.
-I then disconnected the brake lines. It was nice to have already re-done the brake lines last summer. I set them up perfect for the disc brake conversion unintentionally by leaving a shorty piece on each end that was replaced by the 10" brake line hoses I had made by Ak Rubber.
-I took out the axle shaft next, removing the full floater bolts was pretty easy.
-I slid my drum brake off the wheel bearing, I had to take off the wheel bearing nut first.
-I used a 6 stub spindle socket for this.
I had to call Kevin up and asked him which bearing spindle nut socket was the correct one while I was at Napa. I thought it was funny how his thought process came to determine the correct socket:
"the four prong socket works for the front, but doesn't work for the back. Must be the 6 stub one"
-I then pulled a spring to get to the 4 bolts holding the rest of the drum brake stuff, and disconnected the Ebrake cable stuff and tucked it away with zip ties.
[Image: 0406091636.jpg]


-At this point I just pounded the old wheel studs out, they were too short. I was not worried about maintaining the threads on the tip. If you do pount them out, make sure to use a punch. The wheel studs have a dimple at the tip. After the Wheel studs were out I used a metal chisel to separate the wheel bearing from the drum brake housing.


*made sure I cleaned up the spindle. Did this with quick work with the wire brush.
*I also used anti-seize on the mounting surfaces.
[Image: 0406092933.jpg]

-Set the spacer on first, then the new caliper bracket. bolt them onto the 14 bolt rear end's flange.

---------------------------------------------
*DO NOT DO THIS*
[Image: 0406101500.jpg]
---------------------------------------------

Do this instead:
-I set up my new (I bought 1987 chevy 3/4 ton rotors and calipers) rotors on the BACKSIDE of the wheel bearing. I installed new wheel studs because mine were too short to re-use. I went with 1985 dually wheel studs from NAPA. $76! ugh. I lined them up and smacked the back of the wheel stud in place after determining they were in-line with the old grooves.
[Image: 0406131027.jpg]

-Slide the new rotor/old bearing hub back on. I applied bearing greased to it at this point. Install spindle washer, inner nut (torqued to 30-40 lbs), retainer, outer retainer nut (torqued to 60-70 lbs). I couldn't get any tighter when I per-tightened them -as it kept slipping off the socket spuds. I would tighten them down real tight, loosen them, then re-tighten them to the specs i just listed.
[Image: 0406114724.jpg]



[Image: 0406114734.jpg]





-Instal brakes, pads, brake line, wheel/tire:
* make sure you have the correct banjo bolt, line adapters/fitting sizes; so that they match your brake caliper and brake lines.

[Image: 0406122815.jpg]




dont forget to reinstal the axle shaft. tightened the axle bolts down to 105 ft#
[Image: 0407000702.jpg]
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#84
I got the (last) rear wheel on but did not get around to bleeding the brakes because I ordered a 4 wheel line lock kit from summit-which I have not gotten around to installing it yet... but I will soon. I immediately noticed the difference in braking. which was awesome, even without the brakes bled! I read on the web somewhere I may have to adjust the proportioning valve ? I think it is the valve thing in the back driverside-inside the frame .. Ill have to adjust it if the back brakes are too touchy.

I will be also pulling off the front diff cover as my ARB is not locking in. the vent tube is venting all of my compressed air. I was goign to pop off the front cover and check it out but I had some other things come up.

Other than that I am picking up a D60 BJ housing soon. I will be tearing it down and cleaning it up for fabricating later on this summer. I will be running a detroit locker. up front. Maybe some taller gears IF I magically come across some for really cheap!
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#85
Petey your stock proportioning valve is non-adjustable. You should be able to get an adjustable proportioning valve from the same place you got your line locks.
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#86
alrighty. I havent bled em yet. but I have read that they might grab a little more in the rears. When I eventually do bleed them I will determine if I need one or not. Right now I am just happy I can lock up all the wheels! no more guessing how far I need to anticipate braking before I stop!
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#87
ARB LEAK.. no more!
Smile it turned out to just be an air line issue. I ended up pulling the front diff cover off to inspect for any leaks but that turned out to be unecessary. I think Ill just get some kinda filter and re-use the diff oil. It was pretty new. no need to buy another gallon. that stuff is spendy.

I stole the Don Thuren (DT) track bar off of this dodge and put it on my cummins, which seemed to fix the wandering axle problem. That truck drives much more straight than before. I went and ordered another track bar from DT to replace it about a week ago, so in a few weeks it will be here. If not, I will have to pull it off the cummins so I can wheel it on cleanup day.

I still have to instal the line lock. But, that will happen when it happens; it looks like a pretty straight forward instal.
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#88
so I think I located a set of wheel spacers (2") but they wont be up here for a little while. Definitely not before the weekend wheeling trip. ill just have to manage with not turning to full lock.

Still waiting on my DT track bar. It was backorder a month ago, should have been sent out monday. If I dont get it in time, I will have to swap the one I have in my DD out the night before and drive the 2001 to the clean up event, meeting and to, on, and from the trails. I still need to fix my bumper and instal my line lock. Where is the time going?! im running out!

if anyone wants to help out any time I will be working on getting things together at these times/dates: just call me 9o7 59o 3o77 before you head out to make sure Im there.

tuesday
(5/1) at 9am-3pm, and then after class 8pm-midnight,

and/or

Wednesday 9am-12 (noon)

and/or

thursday at 10am -330pm, and then after class 8pm-midnight,

and/or

friday 9am-1pm, 10pm- cleanup day at 8am? I would be forever grateful.
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#89
things are going slow with getting ready for the trip this weekend.
I have the line lock tubes all hooked up, but I damaged a fitting and need to get an inverted flare fitting thngy at ak rubber tomorrow. Ill wire up the electric tomorrow too.

still have to put the diff fluid back in, and repair the rear bumper.
I am actually thinking of just getting some square tubing, and weld it to the end of the frame-boxing it in. I can weld up some tow points there and make mounts for a bumper and winch mount later. Smile
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#90
Didn't you have a trailer hitch on the truck? It can be used as a tow point.
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#91
i do have a trailer hitch. in the future I will be deleting it and welding on a receiver into the square tube that will be boxing in the rear of the frame.
It may sit a little higher (quite a bit actually) but I can make a drop hitch for it. I do not plan on towing anything heavy with this truck anytime soon Tongue
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#92
so I am still currently battling, but winning against brake lines. I had to deal with some leaky fittings, but ak rubber saved the day twice in the same day.

I have a slightly off, but functioning new d60 cover that needs to be sent back to ruffstuff, the countersunk holes warped during the welding process. They are sending me back a cover free of charge. woo!

still waiting on the track bar Sad hopefully it shows up tomorrow! I dont want to have to pull the one in my towpig.

Other than that I just have to hook up the electric for the hydrolock and do some repair welding tomorrow before work. I think Ill do the welding/repair first since I cant do it at night time. (noise complaints). My plan is to role a piece of 1/4" place onto the bumper or weld up some steel. I am going to skip getting the winch this time around and just get a new tow strap. all of mine have been borrowed and destroyed. :mad: Dont worry, not by any of you guys.

I am going to concentrate on finals tonight, hopefully ill get a bunch done. (all take home finals! woot!)
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#93
I decided to go with a different rear bumper. Wayne (Fix_it) is helping me with a new rear bumper since I recently lost a bunch of tools in a house fire.
I cant really express the gratitude and appreciation and willingness I have for the guy for helping me out. I hope one day I can give back to A/O as much as A/O has helped/given me. you guys are alright :rockon:

This is going to be a tough year for me.:mad:

current problems:
1. Wayne pointed out that my rear shackles need to be at more of an angle in the rear. We are going to re weld the hangers mounts (will post up write up and pics later) so I can have a better angle on them. the truck rides like a tank and I am hoping that by adjusting the angle of the shackle is the right fix. the rear shocks are not in an ideal location either. new mounts need to be fabricated for the shocks :mad:

2. line lock is not working. There are no leaks I am aware of, and the truck brakes work fairly decently now. I think the locking cylinder is not engaging. not sure on this entirely because I havent investigated :mad:

3. diff cover. I need to head down to the post office and pic up my new one. the counter sunk holes shifted ever so slightly when it was welded up. they are no longer exact. This is easy but time consuming. :mad:

4. fuel pump? the truck was surging today after bringing it to Wayne's to work on it. it sounded like it was running out of "breath" and then revved up a little here and there. :mad:

5. no rear license plate. lost in the fire. :mad:

6. not sure on how I am going to be able to get my ford hp dana 60 in this summer. Thought about ditching that idea and dropping my axle spring pad mounts lower . this would require removing the axle and fabricating on it again. just a hard thing to do when you do not have your own space to work on stuff anymore.

7. tools.. where are my tools.. oh yeah.. burned.:mad:
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#94
Changing the angle on the shckles isn't going to change your ride that much. But you do need to be sure they are at the right angle. I have a gas tank with the whole sending unit from a 1500. Can check and see if it is the same one. I fit is I can let it go cheaper than a new one for sure. It has about 30,000 miles on it. A new license plate is only $5. I had to get new ones for my dodge after Gina rolled it. Thought it was going to be a lot but wasn't.[COLOR="Silver"]

---------- Post added at 08:53 pm ---------- Previous post was at 08:48 pm ----------

[/COLOR]As for the HP D60 just wait man. You haven't even tried this rig out in it's current configuration really. Get it wheelable and wheel it for the year. Save up and collect parts then attack it later on after the blazer is wheelable. There has to come a time when you have to tell yourself to stop. If all you do is keep changing and working on your rigs you will never get to enjoy them. Trust me I know. I've had three rigs at one point and not a one was wheelable becasue I kept tearing them down and changing them at the same time. It's no fun if you can't us them
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#95
I hear ya Mel. the plan was to work on the axle and get it 100% ready before swapping so that it remained wheelable all for but 2 days it may take to swap in and out and work out any kinks that come up. It is nearly wheelable now with the fixes to be had above.

the blazer was going to be wrapped up but I have to re-assess its build situation. I may be asking for a pad to work on it at soon.

As for the dodge. there will be a shake down run very soon. I am thinking it will be a mud bath at REPP too[COLOR="Silver"]

---------- Post added at 08:01 pm ---------- Previous post was at 07:20 pm ----------

[/COLOR]i am interested in the gas tank sending unit. I have not yet determined what is wrong though. Or know how to determine what is wrong that is causing it to surge. Confusedhrug:
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#96
i agree wheel it , wrench as needed you wont know what you improved of at all .. who knows it may break in nicely ..
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#97
If you can't wheel it, I still need to strap a dog!
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#98
ha.Rolleyes
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#99
2" wheel spacers
fender trimming
and i tightened up a bolt on my gear box. The Don Thuren track bar rel-locator bracket loosened up. i may have to weld it to the frame as it was moving when i cycled the tires back and forth. .. and on another note my steering pump feels like it is lagging. might have to replace it soon. PSC motorsports has a steering pump i have in mind. I will be ordering up a reservoir and doing a hydro assist when the pump poops out or as soon as money comes available.

oh and there is terrible shot of the new rear bumper there below:

[Image: photo11.jpg]
[Image: photo10.jpg]
[Image: photo2.jpg]
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well, turns out i broke the inner shaft AND the U joint!
clean break too.[COLOR="Silver"]

---------- Post added at 11:36 pm ---------- Previous post was at 10:59 pm ----------

[/COLOR]I used a shop vacuum to fish out the stub in the differential. worked like a charm!
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went wheeling, broke a shaft. (driver side) youngs gear and driveline had a used shaft they sold me for 75 with a decent u joint. still feels stiff. Ill take it.
yeah.. Im polishing the turd. not quite ready to jump on my ford 60 build yet. It is a cheap fix for now, I Just need some more time and money, and I want to wheel it some more. the swap will happen eventually. ill just have to wheel smarter for now Tongue

[Image: photo14-1.jpg]
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That neck down is almost worse than the neck down on a D35.
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its terrible. but it will get me back on the road/trail again for now. I bought a spare u joint, and this used shaft has one on it already. I just need to bring the stub back to youngs. you got a shop press i could press a joint out with?
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i think I bent the ears on the stub shaft.
I tried to hit it with a hammer to get the ear to catch it but it did not work.
I bought the spyntech hub conversion kit a little over 2 years ago. while wheeling and broke my spicer u joint, and stock inner axle shaft (driver side). I pulled everything apart, cleaned it up, inspected it. While installing the new u joint, I found that it was spinning freely (by hand) in one of the ears on the spyntec 35 spline stub shaft that originally came with the kit. the stub shaft is perfect besides the ears not holding the cap in place.

warranty on that stub shaft? Ole mentioned that Yukon will warranty their stub shafts for life, and may have to go that direction if I cannot get a warranty on the spyntec stub
[video=youtube;wjwQf3w6UrI]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wjwQf3w6UrI&feature=youtu.be[/video]
http://s3.photobucket.com/albums/y62/ak_petey/DP RAMMIT forward/?action=view&current=IMG_3330.mp4
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