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weld in bungs came in today. just an hour ago. ill be measuring and tearing down tomorrow. hopefully the springs come in as well Big Grin
bad news. the all thread I ordered was the wrong pitch. what a waist .. fastenal would not even take it back because they said it was special order.
Also tried to obtain some caster adjuster washers and bolts from Genes, they said they had the bolt with a washer at the "nut" end and said i had to pay before hand. WTF!? They told me it was a special order because they did not have it in stock... isnt this a common alignment part that should be carried?!?!! apparently not at Genes. which I had expected them to have it. Not schucks, napa, or carquest. ... they had no clue. nobody did. Frustrated and annoyed today. Didnt get jack S**** done. and jack left town.

So it looks like I am not going to be able to make my upper arms adjustable like I had planned today.

Currently I have:
4 right hand threaded weld in bungs with 4 stop nuts
2 johnny joints right hand threaded with bungs and adjuster nuts and stopper nut.
2 johnny joints left hand threaded with bungs and adjuster nuts and stopper nut.
2 upper and 2 lower complete links from the current setup.

It would have been REALLY nice to be able to adjust the upper arm without having to remove it.
the plan is to use the current links, use johnny joints at the frame end for the uppers, beef up the lower and upper control arms with thicker steel; currently there is 1/8th wall tubing; very weak.

---------- Post added at 09:59 pm ---------- Previous post was at 09:53 pm ----------

I would use the right hand and left hand johnny joints I currently have on the uppers but the johnny joints do not fit into the brackets up by the axle, I am really thinking about widening that front bracketry and throw in the right and left hand johnny joints on some pipe I had cut to length.
American tire has the bolts if you can talk them out of them. MSI has some rigs with them in there as well. But they aren't cheap at either.
Dude, you need to quit building and wheel...
Im trying to get the thing road safe at the moment so I can make it to the trails... in once piece.
I can call American Tire tomorrow to see about the bolts. everything works at the moment. except for the control arms and that darn battery drain.
stopped by CnR Pipe and Ole's today and got some goodies.
I got about 90 inches of .25 wall pipe with 1.5 inner diameter from CnR pipe
and bought some rubicon express joints from Ole.

I used the right and left hand joints for the upper arms which are DONE, I just need to instal them after the paint dries sometime later. I will be able to adjust the caster while the arm is on the vehicle! :clap:

The rest of the evening I spent welding, cutting and bending out my brackets so the johnny joints would fit. What took forever tonight was after welding, the heat must have warped two of the threads inside the bungs. I had to take a dremel tool and clean out every thread a bazillion times before johnny joints and bungholes accepted each other. Confusedlap:
Sometime in the next couple of days I will do the lower arms. I plan on using a rubicon express joint up by the frame and a bushing end down by the axle. This way the lower will be adjustable, but it will have to be removed from its mount before. All arms are adjustable!:rockon:

Oh and i figured out that the pipe i got from kevin was only .25 thick. I eyeballed it wrong.[COLOR="Silver"]

---------- Post added at 03:51 am ---------- Previous post was at 03:51 am ----------

[/COLOR][Image: 1230024554.jpg]
so tonight was a giant bag of fail. For some reason the caster bolt on the control arm would not come out, had to cut it out. It was stuck in the bushing sleeve. I guess it was a little "too" tight. funny, went in with a tap of a hammer. :banghead:

the second fail was the rubicon express joint I got from Ole'. the Threads somehow got damages and the whole operation was just poopy from there on out. I got nothing done today except removing the caster bolt which I destroyed getting out.:banghead:

I gave Ole a call and he had an extra joint for me. picked it up, paid Ole and chatted a bit about the club, future trail runs this summer, graduating, finishing the home, building a shop .. blah blah blah . . it was good to see Ole again!

So I was hoping to do a run tomorrow but the lower control arms are not done, and I could not get tomorrow off work. I have a short day tomorrow at work, so hopefully I can get the lower arms done, installed, and then make it out to Mel's for a new years, but my aunt is in town till sunday.. but she is sick.. baaaaw! ill play it by ear tomorrow. busy day. ... busy day..
Thanks to Ole, he saved my butt with this setup.
made up some new adjustable control arms. 1/2" wall tubing with johnny joints on the uppers (left and right hand threads), and rubicon express joints on the bottom with bushings at the axle end. The uppers are 49.5 inches, the uppers are 50.5 inches.
[Image: 1231222840.jpg]

Spent new years eve finishing these up, got the uppers in, and the lowers will go in soon and I will do a garage alignment. I re-did my control arms because the caster was off. I now have the ability to adjust if needed. Smile great way to start out the year! workin on my dodge! Things are looking great this year already!!
I read somewhere that these already built were going for 1000? crazy. Glad I built em myself!
just a little update:
I have been waiting for some caster alignment bolts from the dodge dealer, well- they came in. They were what I was expecting! whew!
I will put them in when I receive some Thuren 3-4 inch lift soft springs- within a few days. The current d i c k cepek springs are 5.5 inches of lift so...the front sits about 1 inch higher than the rear now. The soft ride springs should drop the front of the truck down to about 1"-2" lower than the rear where it sits currently. This should give me a near perfect driveline angle. I decided to go with the caster bolts for the lower control arms (even though the control arms are adjustable) because I will still like to adjust it if needed without removing the lower arms.

After that it is back to school for another semester and the upcoming summer and I will get to finally wheel it. there is talk already about a spring break wheeling trip! In my head. hehe

The d i c k cepek coils will probably be put away for a while for my k5 454 buggy I am going to work on this year. [Image: smile.gif] plans for that is to 4 link the front, and rear. but that is a ways away. Cant wait to see how this thing handles offroad! depending what I break, I will upgrade from here on out:rockon:
still waiting on springs. Thuren was completely out and he wasnt kidding. the 2 week wait is almost up... a little impatient but Thuren had the best price. just waiting on springs and another day off!!
I had a quick wrenching/parts swapping this morning.
I swapped out my D I C K Cepik springs for the Don Thuren Springs this morning. The DT springs were taller than the DC springs when I laid them out next to each other. but when installed, the DT springs sat about 1 inch lower than the DC springs. Cool

I replaced the lower control caster arm adjuster bolt with one I bought a month ago.. yeah its been a while since I have been able to wrench on the truck again. Grad school is keeping me pretty busy.

I headed back to town today and had AK tent and tarp fab up some limiting straps.
Currently waiting for a steering damper to become re-stocked from DT. .. Hopefully that will solve or prevent death wobble from happening.
Ill post pics when its all installed and ready to wheel!
Got a question? Why waste money on the dampner from DT? All theirs is a shock, well all of them are a shock. Just figure out the extended and collapsed length and get one from NAPA sooner. I've never bought an actual steering stabilizer/dampner. Just saying.
hmmm.. i could weld up some tabs to the tie rod and axle, then bolt on a damper or two (if i need it)
havent placed an order yet
I added a steering (damper) shock/stabilizer to the steering setup. seems to work well when I cycled the steering through.
I bought the 2001 steering stabilizer from schucks and fabbed up some tabs (used a drill, bits, grinder) and then welded them to the DT tie rod.
I also added my limiting straps and DT leveling springs, I get about 6 inches of down travel. I am unsure about the up travel
I drove it through the deep snow out here at my dads place, seems to do well!

will post up pics later. Im about to go test it out on REPP road.
The limiting straps I had made from alaska tend and tarp

[Image: 0217122450.jpg]
[Image: 0217122432.jpg]
the test drive to REPP was not so smooth. The truck still wobbles at high speeds, but not as much. I added a steering damper to it and the death wobble quieted down immensely. just a reminder, The purpose of the build is to keep this dodge streetable, and legal, but also useable for a recovery vehicle, winter wheeler, back up wheeler, and back up for when my DD is down.
I didnt go too far back in REPP because I didnt have time to get stuck because I was working on my DD that day later on.
For what I did do back at REPP was pretty simple, and everything worked the way it was supposed to offroad.

I would still like to get a hold of some spacers for the front axle because the tires rub on the control arms when at full lock still.
Might even put a zip tie around a coil link to hold the limiting strap from catching the tire when spinning too...

So tomorrow the dodge will go to the front end shop to get some measurements and a better shakedown than I can provide by myself.
picked up a 1990 ford f350 with a driverside kingpin 60 axle.
the plan is to build a couple mounts for the coils and control arms, truss the axle a little on the bottom with clearance in mind. build a cover, drill out the tie rod knuckles (going to re-use my Don Thuren cross over setup),

The axle will be worked on until it is ready to swap in. After the swap is done, I will start parting out my dodge dana 60 axle to make some money back and to pay for high steer arms for the crossover setup. Step by step the truck will be operational except a day or two when the axle swap is happening.

All in the meantime I will be parting out a f350 7.3 liter ford 4 door I robbed the axle out of. Thanks for the deal and help on that Josh! I will have spent a little money doing this, but I will end up coming out on top.

the reason for the ford 60 swap is because the driveline angle is just too much, and I need more negative caster for a better driveline angle, but I also need positive caster to keep death wobble under control so I can drive it safe on the road. So, I will make the coil bucket mounts as low as I can keep them, and the high pinion will help me with my driveline angle Smile
I hope you have the degrees of caster to build around this time.
i do. its about 5 degrees. I can get it within specs, but the specs make my driveline angle horrible. I can deal with the angle at the pinion, thats easy, but the CV is rubbing on itself, and I dont intend to spend money on a high angle driveline when I can lower the CG, get kingpin knuckles, highsteer and improve the angle of the drivline.
so the kingpin axle I got is pretty crowded on the driverside. Making it difficult to swap in 8" coils and not interfere with highsteer knuckles that will come in the future.
I havent mocked up the axle underneath yet, (wont for a while) but I think that I might need some coilovers to make the swap happen. Coilovers are expensive. and I intend on selling the CAD eliminator shaft, ARB/diff and possibly the manual hub conversion to offset the cost of coils.

I am still looking for a build up thread for coil brackets made for coil conversions on this axle 1985-1991.5 ford hp dana 60. I would love to keep the coils I have. They ride GREAT. but if I replace them I will just go for it and not look back.[COLOR="Silver"]

---------- Post added at 12:25 pm ---------- Previous post was at 12:07 pm ----------

[/COLOR]I got off the phone with ballistic Fab and they have some brackets that should work for my dodge coils. I will have to cut the leaf spring pad off the axle, and weld the bracket on in between. The bracket comes with lower link mounts only, so Ill have to fab up some uppers.. not sure where they will go. I am cringing at welding on the diff housing as the thought passes through my head.
Wow, lots of work and money for a backup wheeler.

It will be cool when it's done though.
if i can get away with it, I wont need coilovers Smile
just a couple brackets, some careful measuring...and highsteer arms. I already have the crossover tie rod and drag link :rockon:

after this semester I will start setting up the axle and going through it, cleaning, prepping, measuring, and tack weld it all up before it goes under the dodge for a test fit. When I determine that everything fits, ill pull it back out and weld it all up in a comfortable position. Im tired of cramming myself underneath a truck and welding. i hope to come out on top of this swap by selling most of the goodies on the dodge dana 60. any takers on my spyntech hubs? hehe. Im pretty attached to those. the more I think about it the more they will probably end up under my DD.
the posts I have been putting up on other 4x4 sites below. Just trying to get more ideas and information where I can get them.
I have been reading up on swapping in a ford 60 hp to replace my second gen. dodge 60. My driveline angle is not too bad at the pinion, but it sucks and the CV, as it is rubbing on itself.

I think the truck sits too high which is due to the coil buckets being mounted on top of the truss. [Image: SAM_0994-1.jpg]
having the Ford D60 high pinion and mounting my coil buckets as low as possible will help with driveline angle, lower my COG about 2-3 inches, allow for highsteer later on and upgrade to 35 spline inner shafts.

I have come across articles/write ups about the ford 1978-79 kingpin being the desired axle for this swap. but, I have sourced a ford 1990 f350 for the hp kingpin axle. I am having second thoughts about pulling this (f350 1990 ) axle due to realizing the spring pad differences with the ford 78/79 kingpins spring pad width 31.5" to the 90 ford kingpin axle's spring pad width 36.5" .
I havent found anything with the 36.5" spring pad width d60 ford axle, except one thread, and someone said it cannot be done. so fire away, looking for some tech, or suggestions to get this to work. I am willing do cut and do fab work, but I dont want to do extra work if I can avoid it by searching for the right axle to swap/work on.

Before I sell it (the 1990 f350) Im poking around for more information anyone might know about swapping in the 1990 axle into my 2001 2500 dodge application. I would like to keep the coils and 5 link suspension design.

I have also been considering trading the f350 dana 60 for an AAM ball joint axle at a salvage yard. The AAM axle seems to be a near bolt in deal. I wont be able to have high steer, and it comes with unit bearings too. But I have some spyntech hubs I can use to convert them with.

Update: (3/8/2012)
I am turning up with zero progress in finding a cost effective solution for this swap.
kicking myself for getting the 1990 ford f350, ($1600) even though it has the kingpin d60 axle. I need to make a few more measurements before I give up and sell the f350 and look for a different solution. I have a few potential buyers interested. And yes, I am feeling like a dumbass already. flame away. I didnt realize the ford d60's were different enough to cause problems:homer:

some possible solutions
sell f350. and buy an aam axle. they are high pinion, but stuck with crappy ball joints and unit bearings. I could reuse my spyntech hubs for manual hubs, but I wont be able to have high steer

ballistic fab sells some brackets (below)
I would have to grind away at the leaf perch mount. in order for it to work. However, the ballistic fab brackets are only 6" in diameter. the guy i talked to said they would work for the dodge coils, but the dodge coils have an 8" outer diameter. .. or am i reading the diagram incorrectly?
[Image: BRK-1056.jpg]

I need to take some further measurements, because I have been pushing the idea to use the kingpin dana 60, and just mount the truck with coilovers

find a way to drop the t case/tranny mount. Someone I talked to suggested this, I didnt think it was a good idea, as it would mess with my rear driveline.
If this was my truck I would cut down the truss and mount the coils lower, it is also possible to mount your frame perches higher or a combination of the two. I prefer lower COG, how much extra wheel well do you have? can you trim the fenders at all to ensure you don't touch the fenders with the tire?
plenty of room in the wheel wells. I moved the axle forward so that I could fit the larger tire. I could stand to lose a few inches in height. but I dont want to loose too much because I do have a long wheelbase. Im thinking of dropping 3-4 inches.

I hesitate cutting into the truss due to the reasons I put it on there, but then again I am sitting here trying to drop in a bare axle. go figure.
Also, I do have room to move the coil buckets up higher on my frame.
the bonus in keeping my axle- trussed, ARB, manual hubs, my DD doesnt get manual hubs
the bonus in swapping to an AAM- high pinion, my DD doesnt get manual hubs (this built ram does)
the bonus in swapping to a ford HP BJ d60- high pinion, 35 spline inner shafts, manual hubs.

At this point I am certain this kingpin wont work for me until i get measurements and figure it in EXACTLY. From what I have read, I am SOL.
I will need a 78/79 d60 ford axle. which are stupid hard to find. and I am not about to pay 1700 for one and have to rebuild it.
Drop the T-case a bit. Seriously it's not a big deal and should help big time.

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