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DP-Rammit
#27
Get some wheeling in first.
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#28
Well, as soon as the drive line is in it will stay this way until my k5 buggy is done. I need to have one wheeler operational Smile
5.38 gears? hmmmm.. sounds like some money! haha.

I plan on getting a tube bender and boat side this, but without cutting into the door. This is not a buggy... knock on wood!
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#29
so it turns out that I am unable to get the short shaft/slip yoke eliminator kit. .. until the end of november.
I decided this was too long to wait and I have decided to go with a 2 piece driveline from jesse at high angle driveline.
This way I will be able to still separate the rear driveline (if needed) without having the trans. case puke out all the fluid.
The original plan was to have a one piece driveline but in the end.. it was just too long of a driveline. 69.5 inches from end of slip yoke shaft to diff u joint. parts should be shipping soon.
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#30
well if you are not driving in 4wd at high speeds you can always do a home made 2"x2" slip style drive line. Just a thought since you got those high speed locking hubs now.
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#31
Thanks Don, I thought of that before but this is going to be my back up driver for when my DD goes down. so...... I dont think it will be an all out buggy yet!

There are some big plans in mind for this but I need high speed drivelines because I will be driving this to the trails most likely, that is until I get a trailer within the next year.
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#32
I just got my drivelines on friday night. I was way too tired to complete the job that night and be ready for the 33 mile run Kevin put up.
So I did get out to the house the next night-saturday and had to jump the battery first, weird.. because I always leave the neg. battery terminal off. and I found my window down about. 7 inches.. really weird. So after I jump it, I noticed that the dome lights inside were ON. .. someone was sitting in my truck hanging out with the lights on. kinda creepy. :eek:

anyway, I got the garage cleared out enough to sandwich my dodge inside with all the winter stored goods inside and began working on the driveline assembly. took the yoke off the old driveline and put it on the new one. couldnt get the yoke off the 14 bolt diff.:knockout: so I borrowed a puller from AkMark on sunday. After work sunday I got the flange mounted in the 14 bolt and the 2 piece driveline together. I just need to put together a crossmember for the bearing mount and I should be good to go.

EXCEPT for the brakes. For some reason I am having a difficult time with keeping line pressure on the brakes. I might need a new Master Cylinder. I have never replaced mine and it is a 10 year old truck. but who knows. I might need to just bleed the thing all over again. and I am missing a compression sleeve for the ARB line.
one thing after another eh? easy fixes, but time is limited.
I hope to be ready by Jake's Run.
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#33
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The bearing mount "extension" is 3/8" plate and sticks out 7 inches approximately from the original crossmember. It flexes a little bit but not much. is this a problem? it wouldnt be much to brace the bearing bolts with flat bar (flat bar running from the frame rails to the bearing mount bolts.

i only have to drill and tap a vent nipple and figure my brakes out here.
ill be ready to roll then Big Grin
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#34
well, its been fun building this, but i think I might be interested in something smaller.
up for sale 12k
i will reduce the price if i break something while wheeling it.[COLOR="Silver"]

---------- Post added at 07:29 pm ---------- Previous post was at 05:39 pm ----------

[/COLOR]I am still waiting for some time to free up so I can get out to the truck and bleed the brakes and master cylinder. I need to pick up a replacement master cylinder just in case mine is bad for when I go out to get the brake system up to par.
Just for clarification. I do not intend to sell the dodge for much less than 12k. Maybe someone will come along and pick it up for the price on consignment. I am not expecting that to happen immediately, but ya never know.
I still plan on having a little fun with it and use it as a wheeler.
There will be a sweet "turtle" replacement if it does sell !
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#35
new master break cylinder in. Amanda (girlfriend) helped pump the brakes, with no complaints. She is a keeper!:headbang:
I borrowed some coil spring clamps from Wayne (Fix_it) with hopes of welding on some spring "stops" so my springs wont kick out when flexing hard. I will also be adding a cross member support to the bearing on my rear driveline.
Its coming together fast, it is ThanksGiving today and I am thankful for A/O and the members that make this club well worth time, membership fees, and most of all friends.
:cheers:

One thing that has been bugging me is the electric system, I have a bad drain on my truck. not much time to investigate it so Ill be dropping it off at a shop for this soon. Looking forward for a december wheeling trip if it gets warm!
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#36
Don't drop it off at a shop, drop by here. Those are easy to find.
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#37
braced the driveline bearing mount, and reinstalled my inner coil shock absorber today. I had to make a mount for the shock absorber and weld it on, the bearing crossmember brace took a while because my drill bits are not as sharp as they used to be.

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I took the dodge out for a spin and it seemed to work just right. Except for speeds over 30mph. It definitely needs an alignment. I do need some new bushings for my control arms too.
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#38
so after I missed the meeting due to work, I went to my parents and did a little wrenching on my dodge.
I supposedly had ordered wrong bushings for the control arms on the front axle, only 4 of them out of 16 were the right size. I have a d i c k cepek 5.5 to 6 inch lift with the long control arms and cant seem to find a number for a business that will order me them. So I bolted the 1 control arm back on after reinstalling the old bushings. yay. more time wasted. As I was putting things away from that job I installed the high lift and mount to the back of my tool box. note to self. I need to get a cover for it sometime soon.

I then did a little at home alignment with levels and a tape measure. The truck seemed to not wander as much down the road.
I did a little shake down run on a small trail near my parents house, seems like the ARB is working good even though the pressure gauge isnt reading the right amount, still have an annoying steering knock which might be due to the bad/burnt bushing on the track bar- that was my fault. I am getting the ABS light and the BRAKE light on the dash to light up, but that is due to the rear axle being swapped out for that chevy 14 bolt with no electronics. I was also getting a "check gauges" light too. It was really od, because the RPM, battery, and the speedo would work initially, and then just fail/stop giving readings after some driving. the last light that decided to pop up was my old friendly diagnostic code p0138- oxygen sensor high voltage ( the one back by the catalytic converter) And finally I had to take off the driveline bearing brace. It was barely rubbing up on my driveline flange. the sound was awful.
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#39
Looks good. Love those IROK's.
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#40
For the bushing here is a tip for everyone. Don't order bushing for your arms, tracbar or whatever by brand. Order by size. Take the measurements to napa and have them get them. Or call up whatever business you to give money to and give the measurements.
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#41
makes sense. I have the kit still. Tomorrow or sometime before I return the kit I will present the bushing to napa or wherever and see if they can get me what I need.
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#42
A little update:
went to ak rubber and got another set up so I can just air up the locker and not have to wait for a 5 gallon tank to load. The pressure switch will shut off at 120 psi, but the regulator on the ARB line is set up to allow only 90 psi I believe. Ill have to adjust it when I get the chance again.:nerd:
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I am waiting to hear back from poly performance about my bushings. Apparently D i c k cepek's lift has some oddball bushings for their sleeves. Anyplace in town that sells poly bushings? I may opt for rubber bushings if this becomes too difficult.


I replaced the upper bushing that was burnt on my panhard bar...(note to self, let metal cool after welding before test fit) <---I was a little impatient that day i guess :clap:. I noticed that the inner sleeve to the bushing was larger than the bolt, so I replaced the bolt with a bolt that was nice and tight. It wouldnt even slide into the sleeve until I filed away the nickle coating. I re-drilled the panhard upper-mount's bolt holes and it went in nice and tight! :magic: When I pulled the panhard bar out from the truck I noticed the metal bushing/spacer on the heim joint (lower end) had 2 inner diameters! one a little bigger than the bolt going through it. I went through my box of bolts and parts and found the "other" mismatched set and put the right ones together and reinstalled it. My panhard bar is nice and tight now! :rockon:

When I pulled the control arm out, .... I will just say it was loose and leave it at that... :hide: As I was doing this I noticed that the shock that sits outside the coil spring, is limiting travel. I discovered this when I lifted the dodge off the ground with the highlift to get a droop measurement. I removed the shock and was able to lift the vehicle high enough to where I was able to turn the coil spring and had to set it back into place. I will probably be leaving out the shocks that are limiting my travel. Coil-overs sound pretty neat at the moment Big Grin
I also did notice the rear shocks need to sit more vertical. I will probably be bracing the rear with a weld in crossmember with shock tab brackets in the future.

not a super huge update, but if I get bushings soon I will be crossing my fingers to see if it drives nicely on the highway at 45 mph. Cant be speeding around now.. not everyone will be able to get a glimpse! :thefinger:
Once this thing is operational for a back up DD, I will need to actually use it for that purpose when I take my oil burner's front driveline out to get the CV rebuilt, track bar bushings replaced ( I found my clunk) and the rear slip yoke seal fixed. Man, it is a GOOD thing my semester is finally closing out! time for a wrenching and wheeling winter break!
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#43
I was going to work on my school work this evening to free up some time tomorrow night and get my old bushings back in for a trial run Saturday, but I got a call from my mom and had to rescue their truck after I got some parts. I did my deed for the day and swapped out an idler pully and belt. that drive belt in the Duramax is a PITA!!!!!
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#44
tube? I need a bender!
5.38 gears? sounds spendy! I am not sure what gear ratio my front housing can hold. i plan on keeping the 4:10 ratio in there for now. see where this gets me Smile

Update:
so my control arm bushings came in from polyperformance the other day. yay!
however the bushing inner diameter hole was TOO big. I went down to sentry hardware and got a pipe nipple. I cut them down to length so I could make a bushing center sleeve. The inner diameter if the pipe was different too. ugh.. So I had to purchase some new bolts. I upgraded to grade8 5/8" bolts. This meant I had to drill out the existing mount bracket holes on the truck.
Its ready to roll!
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#45
I drove it into town for an alignment today with much caution, (death wobble) and I need to rotate the differential "backwards" (caster) so that my camber is within reason

to do this I need to fabricate up some new lower links. I bought some 3/8" wall pipe from kevin many years ago with a 1.5" inner diameter. Perfect for my weld in bungs! only problem is I misplaced ONE of them. and cant do the new arms this week. I ordered the weld in bungs from CURRIE for about $10 apiece. now I have to find some 1.25 all thread for the adjustable link part. ANYONE HAVE ANY 1.25" all thread laying around or where to get it?? i WAS THINKING DENALI FASTENERS.. COULD USE SOME MORE SUGGESTIONS. GREER CANT GET THEM BECAUSE THEY ARE SPECIAL ORDER AND WILL TAKE FOREVER TO GET. ANYWAY, I plan on reusing the sleeves and new bushings. The driveline angle will suffer a little, but that is just the front driveangle U joint that will suffer; which is easier to replace than the CV.

I suppose I could throw in a HP dana 60 up front and improve the angle, or lower the spring mounts. or both.. just an idea for the future. I think I would like some coil overs and coilover bucket mounts would be my ideal solution, it would also lower the COG and improve that driveline angle, but thats quite a bit of money. Ill see what this next year brings with wheeling n all.

IF this was an offroad only rig I would keep the caster/camber as it is because I cant tell any difference at speeds below 20mph; which is hardly seen in trail crawling.

Kinda bummed that it is not quite done but I am still learning a lot as I go. I am self taught and willing to seek out and learn new information, and take constructive criticism from others. I hope anyone following or just read this far gets something from this! I do as I go!
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#46
Instead of posting on the "update thread" I have my own build thread on here so one post is good enough for meSmile
so I have had some death wobble issues. Everything is tight and I have new bushings in the control arms. The only thing left is the alignment. The tow is set evenly, but the caster/camber is not.
My new plan to fix this is to shorten up my upper control arm links a make them adjustable. Unfortunately the new "alignment" with the new length of upper arms will make my front driveline angle terrible.

the answer to that is: new coil springs are on their way as we speak! I have ordered some soft ride coils from Don Thuren. They are supposed to give me only a 4.5 inch lift opposed to my 5.5 inch coils. I expect them to settle down a little with time and use. With a lower front, it should level out the already low rear end. If they do not settle like I plan, I will cut my coil buckets out this summer/spring and welding them a couple inches higher than their present location; this will give me the drop in suspension and help with the front driveline angle. If I have to cut the buckets, I will swap the D I C K cepek springs back in DP RAMMIT and throw the Don Thuren springs in my 03 cummins "towpig". If go as far as swapping the Thuren springs into towpig, I will weld up some adjustable control arms for it :rockon:

I added a rear mudflap setup that was welded to a tow hitch. the mud flaps were included in a parts truck I had a little while ago. it comes off with a slip of a pin! Smile
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and last of all, anyone know what this harness is? It is located under my 01 RAM's battery box.
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---------- Post added at 09:06 pm ---------- Previous post was at 08:53 pm ----------

[/COLOR]On the way into town to get some tips on the alignment I found my battery drain link. I drove to town, and when things started to shut off I assumed it was the alternator. It was a tuesday, or wednesday. with everyone at work.. things looked dim until I found only available person to rescue me. .. Wayne. Thanks buddy! He came and gave me a jump and followed me to the alignment shop and then gave me a ride to my truck in town. Definitely happy with being a member and having good friends to lend a hand, jump or pull.
After I got in my truck and thanked Wayne again I hopped in my truck and drove to schmucks and got a new alternator, talked to Kael over at Alyeska Tire about the alignment and got some advice, and no charge while it was on the rack because it was impossible to do with my wide freakin tires. Pulled the truck outside and it died again! I was scratching my head on this one and called my buddy zach from Z trans up and he said I should check my alternator fuse.. Usually he Bullschmits me (which I assumed was happening) but I checked under the hood and sure enough.. a 140 amp fuse was blown. This added up to $10 and some cents at Genes. Got there just before closing time.
the drain was coming from my fuse. .. all this time.. it was a fuse ...:rant:
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#47
I can't imagine how you can have a bad front driveline angle on a big truck, axle moved forward & 5" lift....the only way that should happen is you put all the brackets in the wrong places? You would have to roll the whole housing to fix this.
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#48
there is a bit more than a 5 inch lift. The truss on the axle gives about 2-3 inches. The brackets on the frame were lowered about 1-2 inches.. i cant remember the specs from the summer. but that gives me about a total of about 10 inches of total lift at the moment. I aim to get the lift down 4 inches. with the axle forward I should still be able to run the 42's without rubbing.
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#49
I know after lifting chris' truck 6" or so and the pinion angle was good and caster was within tolerance. That was also with different long arms. Also using the cam bolts to adjust caster as well.
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#50
tomorrow is my day off and I will get a better idea where the caster angle actually is and what direction the axle will need to be rotated. I will remove the front tires and hang a piece of string with a weight on it in accordance to the ball joints to see where it sits and how much it needs to be adjusted.[COLOR="Silver"]

---------- Post added at 11:39 pm ---------- Previous post was at 11:25 pm ----------

[/COLOR]oh and I checked UPS. adjustment parts should be in tomorrow Big Grin
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#51
Find the specs for your truck. Not all are the same and usually 0* isn't it. Jeeps are generally happy to 5*.
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#52
http://dodgeram.org/tech/specs/00_steer_specs.html
this is what I found.
about a 3.2 to 3.5 degree (positive) caster is where I need to be at.
it makes sense that I my steering is very easy to turn, even with the 42s. I assume this is due to negative caster; which makes sense from what I have been reading.

"Increasing the amount of positive caster will increase steering effort and straight line tracking, as well as improve high speed stability and cornering effectiveness. Positive caster also increases tire lean when cornering (almost like having more negative camber) as the steering angle is increased."
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