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TJ build phase ____x.
#79
Don't know the stats but thought you could check it out.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/17756-09-Rugged-...9f&vxp=mtr
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#80
Got the H1 rain cap from Mel.
dont want a lot of fragile parts... I am kinda hard on stuff. Rolleyes

Gotta figure how to route across cowl...under or over...the heater intake is in the way and the snorkle has to be near the passenger side of the cowl panel.

If I run it on top, my use 5x2 or 4x2 aluminum rectangular tube.

If run under, I have to cut out part of the heater intake....not sure that is a big deal or not...will need to take everything apart and look.
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#81
Pinion was loose on my Dana 44.
Tore down the front this week at my brothers. Pinion deflection wore the bearings and races..

Replaced that and seals. Shimmed up and ready to roll.

JK ball joints are fine.
Unitbearings worn....gotta get those redrilled to 5*4.5

Otherwise ready for Jakes Run.
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#82
http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billavista...ll-review/

More than you ever wanted to know....

Details of ARB seals most of the way down the page
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#83
Planning out hi-steer conversion
Since I have the ProRock 44, all parts are for a 07+ JK.
I will convert the bolt pattern to 5x5 rather than 5x4.5 as we have to custom drill the unit bearings....which means replacements aren't off the shelf. This places a greater probability that I move to the Hutchinson RockMonsters.

Current Parts list:
Reid Knuckles
1.5 inch, 0.25 wall DOM for tie rod and drag link
7/8, 18 TPI weld-in bungs
Jam nuts (x4)
7/8, 18 TPI GM ends...everyone calls them one-ton, but it looks like they are 3/4 ton parts. Tie rod will use the 1.5 inch offset ends (EX23434). Drag link link will be flipped at the knuckle and use an the offset end.
Pitman arm will use the 60 degree rod end (ES2027...not yet sure if that ends up being right or left hand thread at this point).

Knuckles and pitman arm will need to be reamed to GM taper 0.75"

Axle side track bar bracket is likely to need relocating.

This will allow a steering upgrade for the PSC assist later on.
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#84
You could invest in the or dynatrac free spin hubs. Then just use standard dana 44 conical bearings when yours go bad. You can buy them in the 5x4.5 wheel bolt pattern and not have to worry about re drilling unit bearings. But then your RCV outers will need to be swapped out.

This could get spendy!
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#85
ak_petey Wrote:You could invest in the or dynatrac free spin hubs. Then just use standard dana 44 conical bearings when yours go bad. You can buy them in the 5x4.5 wheel bolt pattern and not have to worry about re drilling unit bearings. But then your RCV outers will need to be swapped out.

This could get spendy!

No. no change in unit bearings or outers.
The parts above improve road worthiness since my Jeep has to be able to tow a trailer, and off high wear parts replaced.
Hi-Steer should come in under $1,000 bucks
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#86
Started the cowl snorkel work today.

Removed cowl
[ATTACH=CONFIG]1278[/ATTACH]

mocked in Spectre cowl intake

[ATTACH=CONFIG]1279[/ATTACH]

drilled 3 inch hole and relocated ground
[ATTACH=CONFIG]1280[/ATTACH]

mounted system to firewall
all installed.
[ATTACH=CONFIG]1281[/ATTACH]

[ATTACH=CONFIG]1282[/ATTACH]

Now, I will get a 3 inch 90, run through a 3 inch hole in the cowl.

I need to get a 4 inch riser with a 1/4 inch flange to mount over the hose coming from the cowl, to hold the deuce's mushroom cap
Then the snorkel will be complete.

The cowl intake does make the cabin more noisy...wine at certain throttle positions. That should get better once the sound is not coming from my cowl/heater intake area!

Now I can either detail the engine as Chris would, or wait until spring when I can cover up the bling.


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.jpg   spectre4b.jpg (Size: 180.73 KB / Downloads: 6)
.jpg   spectre5b.jpg (Size: 220 KB / Downloads: 7)
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#87
Ohhhh snap...I think I just got burned >.< Leave it as it is. What is the difference in height between factory intake and cowl intake?
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#88
No fording difference, however the cowl intake was never my end point.
It is noisy and does cause a vacuum when on the throttle by drawing air OUT of the heater and into the cowl/engine.

Besides...the cowl snorkel is unique and looks pretty ++++ cool.
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#89
looks good Brian!
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#90
One step closer
[ATTACH=CONFIG]1287[/ATTACH]


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#91
Dr Brian Wrote:One step closer
[ATTACH=CONFIG]1287[/ATTACH]

Interesting. Do you have a whole hood shot?
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#92
That was sitting on my Superduty...
I have to get this to my fabricator before it will go on the Jeep.
Needs mounting flange for the cowl and needs 2" trimmed off.
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#93
snorkel almost done...last bit in fabrication.
electric fan sitting in garage.

new power steering pump on the way....while waiting for that, the steering gear output seal blew out, spraying ATF+4 all over the place. Output seals are hard to come by, so I did the next best thing:

PSC steering gear upgrade on the way.
I did NOT go with hydro assist...to much "extra" to deal with while turning only 35s and in the future 37s.

Good thing we don't actually have the M&G wheeling week in full swing...or I would be at major risk of missing it.
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#94
PSC gear here...should get on in the next couple days.
[ATTACH=CONFIG]1340[/ATTACH]


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.jpg   PSC box.jpg (Size: 146.52 KB / Downloads: 4)
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#95
Well, let's see its been two days.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using Tapatalk
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#96
Will get pics tomorrow.
Add fluid, bleed and wheel.
I will add a steering fluid cooler later.

Haven't swept the garage floor once!
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#97
Har Har Har. As a doctor I would expect a nice tidy work space from you.

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#98
A clean work space is an efficient workplace!
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#99
In order to put the PSC gear into the 2003 TJ you have to shorten the steering shaft. I removed the shaft from the Jeep. Drilled out the plastic retaining clip that's designed to absorb impact during a crash. Used a three-quarter inch socket over the drivers end of the shaft and then tapped it two inches shorter.

[ATTACH=CONFIG]1345[/ATTACH]


Once the shaft was mostly reinstalled we can put in the box. The box has 4 mounting points but only 3 are used to attach it as that is the factory set up. Hooked up the power steering lines today. Next we put the fluid in and bled the system. Steering is good lock to lock.


[ATTACH=CONFIG]1346[/ATTACH]

I will test it out a little tomorrow. It turns out I fried the starter on the last run the banner. the Napa junk must not like to be under water.


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.jpg   Short shaft.jpg (Size: 124.28 KB / Downloads: 3)
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Bring it by tomorrow while the brain trust is here.

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Swept the floor today
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Snorkel getting wrapped up, and will install sometime soon.

Getting ready to finally get limit straps, longer shocks and probably 4.5 inch lift springs in the rear and lower the adjustable spacers so I gain better control on rake and ride height.

Fox Racing shocks in the plan with the CD adjustment front and rear. Then I can measure for proper limit straps...my OME shocks have been doing that job for far too long.

Once those are on, then I probably need new e-brake cables from P&T (I need them a hair longer anyway).

Also for this spring is to remove the overlapping metal on the front tube fenders and have them welded as one layer.

Then the cosmetic stuff to refinish bumpers, sliders and tire carrier in flat black to combat 5 years of abuse.
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Brian,

If your going FOX shocks give Ryan at Accutune a call and he can set you up with Fox shocks that are setup for your vehicles weight and how you want it to ride. He set up my 4Runner and I couldn't be happier.
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Thanks for the shock tip.

One step closer to a snorkel.

Gonna likely mount it differently than planned.
Base will go under cowl panel with rivnuts. That means the cowl hole will be 4 inches, but cleaner.

Also will chop the stack down to just under 4 inches.....cut out material on top to leave 3 spires for the mushroom cap to sit on (inside), 1.25 inches onto the stack for stability.
It will be roughly 2 inches from the cowl panel to the bottom lip of the mushroom cap...+/- depending on how exactly I decide on trimming.

[Image: 20160321_213437-1.jpg]

Below is the approx location of the mushroom. At installed height, the wiper will be able to move all the way forward.
The hood can't be flipped back with the mushroom on, but should be fine with the mushroom removed.

[Image: 20160321_182003-1.jpg]


Below is the dirt diagram showing the flow from the cowl intake to the hole to be cut near the hinge.
Will likely use a couple silicone intake 90s, etc to make the turn. Will need some 3 inch spacers too. Also the corner of the heater intake will need to be cut to clear.

[Image: 20160321_184629-1.jpg]
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