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operation k5 buggy build
#79
TDC #1 will be the #1 piston at the very top, and valves closed.
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#80
TDC?
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#81
Top Dead Center......Maybe you shouldn't touch that sucker till someone can lend you a hand.......

Guess we'll just have to give you an engine education!

In my opinion, hands on learning is the best, so we'll get there.

I just need to get mine done first.
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#82
So the manifold took a little while to get done but it is done. finally.
The front and rear gasket took more RTV silicone than I thought. Good thing I bought two. When I put the manifold on after the RTV gaskets were squeezed out, I found that there was a pretty large gap still. So I had to GLOB it on the second time. No gap Smile

While putting the intake manifold bolts on, I dropped one in the distributor hole :clap:
I spent the next 30 minutes fishing it out with a magnet. Having an Aluminum manifold was nice, the block- not so nice with my magnet fishing pole. After 30 minutes it was out. I immediately plugged up the holes after that incident
I then torqued the bolts in the proper order 15 lbs the first time, 25 lbs the 2nd time around. Gotta torque them down one more time after I get it up to operating temperatures.

Placed the distributor on shortly after, and here are pics:
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[Image: IMAG0038.jpg][Image: IMAG0037.jpg]
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#83
Got the water pump on! I think I spent most of my time searching for the bolts. Turned out I set them back in the holes in the old water pump. Go figure.

Attempted to get the new power steering pump mounted, but I could not get the old pump out of the reservoir. The engine compartment fire must have really sealed the deal on that pump and reservoir! My attempts ended up damaging the reservoir so I will just return the pump for a pump with a reservoir mounted already. So I had to order one, NAPA said the pump and reservoir is not a stock item they carry.... ?? ....oh well. I can't work on it until next Thursday anyway.

*I am thinking about just putting the air pump set up on the back burner for now. The old unit is all burnt up and I can imagine it will cost some money to replace it. At this point I dont see a reason to put it on there now. maybe later I want to run some kind of air setup.

So next Thursday/weekend:

  1. I plan on pulling off the rest of the remaining hummer tires off of my parts truck and putting my 33 inch rollers on there (they hold air better). With this I can roll the parts truck in and out of the garage when I need to! or on a trailer to take it to warm places to gut it for goodies.
  2. Beadlock rings should be ready and cut out by next Thursday as well, Then I will proceed to mount the tractor tires :lol:. Ill be sure to post axle and frame height.
  3. pick up power steering pump and reservoir, new starter. Then mount them up.
  4. Gas tank removal, set up the inline fuel pump. Where would be a good spot?
  5. Possibly get some assistance on wiring, carb setup, starter hooked up and eliminating the EFI wiring mess I got in there.
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#84
S0000.. I have a few other project distractions I need to get out of the way here before I start back up on my k5 build, but here is the major part of my laundry list:

The motor, time and money is what is really holding me back. a few more parts on the motor and I can get it running under its own power. the only problem is that I am stretching its wheel base, so my drivelines will not work! The rest of the blazer build is just a couple weekends of fabrication and swapping parts. Close, but still far away !!

on the list to buy/get made:


f/r drivelines $1000
RCV longfields $2000
beadlock rings $250
35 spline outer hubs $200
beadlock ring hardware: $ ?
-256 bolts (3/8)
-512 washers
-256 nylon threaded nuts
-lots of locktight
-good friends to help me bolt them on and torque down the hardware on the beadlocks! wink wink wink


looks like I will be hounding my supervisors for some overtime! hopefully before school starts up again.
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#85
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Not sure what to go with next on putting stuff on. Do I need some sort of vacuum line to the hydroboost? not sure how this is all going to work. doesnt the TH400 have some sort of vacuum line to it as well?
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---------- Post added at 10:42 pm ---------- Previous post was at 10:39 pm ----------

[/COLOR]could use a hand/advice Smile

I got plans to put a different blower box on as soon as I pull it in a warm garage, (that isnt happening this weekend)
put the manual crank window doors on
put on some parts as money permits me to. What goes on next?
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#86
No vacuum to hydroboost systems.

Yes, you need a vacuum line to the T-400 so it knows when to shift since you don't have kickdown linkage.
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#87
give me a call when you are in a warm garage and I can come out take a look and give some advice
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#88
I would put a 4 or 5 speed stick in and eliminat that whole vacuum mess.
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#89
don- The blazer is in a warm garage at the moment. its not going anywhere soon because its on blocks! still awaiting beadlock rings to be delivered.
brandon- I will think about a manual transmission when this th400 goes KAPUT.
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#90
I got a few pulleys installed on my 454. found some plugs to plug up vacuum holes in the intake, and located some 350 parts I am going to try and reuse.
I have more of an idea what direction I am going now. Don helped clear a few things up I had questions about too. Also had to phone in for tech help with Kevin. Thanks!

I decided to go with the serpentine belt setup that the 454 originally had. I was going to try the use the 'V' groove belt setup like my 1987 350 motor used, but the crank pulleys were not the same. I will just bite the bullet and plan on the stock configuration just to keep it simple. unless I come across something cheap and efficient. Next time I get my hands dirty I plan on installing exhaust manifolds, rigging up some coolant lines, power steering lines, brake system set up (hydroboost), get my new heater box/ controls and dash back in.
Engine work is not my expertise! Cant wait to be done with it so I can start modifying the suspension and body!

[Image: IMAG0099.jpg] [Image: IMAG0098.jpg][COLOR="Silver"]

---------- Post added at 10:43 pm ---------- Previous post was at 10:42 pm ----------

[/COLOR]oh, I forgot to mention tractor tires might be mounted next update as well!
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#91
just curious why your going with the RCV longfields they are BEEF dont get me wrong but with a 35 spline inner and outer alloy shaft with a greasable joint ive never broken a shaft, granted i have a v6 but i think the RCVs are a waste of money that could be better spent else where.
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#92
With a 454 pushing a little more than stock , 46x18 ags, locked f/r, about 4500 lbs (maybe more with gear).... I figure I will be ahead of the game. I'll spend close to as much in inner and outer chromoly shafts and ctm joints. Plus I will have better turning w/o as much binding.


I was thinkin why not build it with the best parts, and have a good warranty. Plus a well built d60 will hold up to a Rockwell.... But lighter! It's also an investment. I appreciate the concern, does anyone else agree/disagree?
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#93
With 46" ags, a healthy 454, lockers. I'd probably go with Longs as well.
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#94
I don't know enough about the RCV to comment on them. I do know that using 35 spline chromoly's will be stronger than a Rockwell.
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#95
first of all CTMs are over rated for the money spent on them (200$ a joint) a Yukon super joint would suffice. when you get in the realm of huse tires and huge power normally what fails on a D60 is usually the ring and pinion, tendacy to shear teeth from deflection. just my $ .02
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#96
Yes. CTM's are not worth the money. And the ears on the shaft are not the same metal as the shaft itself. they are a softer metal. But if you go chromo then it is the same metal. The weight is a big downfall to me. Just the center section is over 250lbs. With the type of terrain we have that will get you in trouble with out the right tires. ANd I'm not talking about just tall they need to be way wide and have softer sidewalls. Which Ag's do not. Ag's will dig they wont float.[COLOR="Silver"]

---------- Post added at 01:52 pm ---------- Previous post was at 01:48 pm ----------

[/COLOR]Heck go with AAM 11.5 rear
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#97
floatation tires ... have you seen the weight on each of those? its ridiculous
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#98
Put the blazer on some rollers and rolled it out of the garage, tarped it, and got the parts truck in !
Things to strip off: tranny, tcase, brake hydro boost setup, interior air delivery system, grill, the rest is extra.[COLOR="Silver"]

---------- Post added at 02:01 am ---------- Previous post was at 02:00 am ----------

[/COLOR]strip party next weekend! whos coming!?
that sounded bad.
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#99
Blazer has all the parts that are supposed to go in ready. This when's task is to get the hydro boost and heater fan and box in . Hoping to finish up the motor soon!
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What is this hole in the middle?
can I plug it?
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I want to say coolant temp probe, but as I've never seen the port normally used on a 454, don't quote me on that.
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I think you might be right. I have something that could resemble that laying around in my "burnt mystery parts bin"
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anyone got a diagram to a 7.4 TBI chevy 454? Im not running the air conditioning and air pump.
I am only running : power steering, crank, water pump, and alternator.

On the update: bead lock rings still not in, RCV shafts not in, buncha other stuff IN.

I did get the hydroboost brake system set up and installed. Just needing to bleed it. And I got the heater box and blower motor installed. I went with the non air conditioning lever set up. My parts truck is currently at my girlfriends house where her little brother and dad are pulling the diesel motor for a project. (it was a give away).
Ill be getting my parts truck back from them soon enough to get my air vents and other stuff to finish it. Next week I plan on helping out with the trailer build and maybe recruiting some help to finish my motor build! I believe I have all the parts to run it. Minus the wiring harness.
ak_petey---> :poke: <---ChevyKev[COLOR="Silver"]

---------- Post added at 07:52 pm ---------- Previous post was at 07:39 pm ----------

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the old blazer's heater box was cracked. I decided to go with the parts truck's box instead. The following pics are what I did today.
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The new motor and the gigantic valve covers made little room back by the fire wall. I just cut into it and hammered away. then applied a lot of silicone. It has a pretty blue color to it Smile[COLOR="Silver"]

---------- Post added at 07:54 pm ---------- Previous post was at 07:52 pm ----------

[/COLOR]i forgot to get pics of the hydro boost brake system but its on there. Ill have to prove it next time i am out at the garage.
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Your heater box looks a lot like mine, except I used black silicone.
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