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operation k5 buggy build
#53
Trying to get the truggy running under its own power after the semester. Where should I start first?
The motor is on the frame motor mounts, and bolted to the the tranny. I have the new intake manifold w/gaskets, carb, electric fuel pump (regulated), water pump, front accessory brackets (most of the front accessories were burnt).
Would anything off of a 6.2 diesel be useful in swapping stuff over?
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#54
I got the new intake manifold, 770 cfm holley avenger carb, but confused on what distributor to use. Any ideas for something cheap and efficient? not looking for high performance, just reliability

reminder- the motor came out of a 93 chevy 2500
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#55
GM HEI, easy, and fairly powerful.
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#56
When I go to napa, does the year make and model matter?
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#57
Probably shoot for 86 K30 with a 454 and you should be good to go.
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#58
Im going to attempt to get the motor together as much as possible.
I could really use the knowledge and assistance of how to do, what to do and not to do,

Thursday night 12/23 (tomorrow)
6 pm

907 five nine zero 3077
-peter
@
2453 Green Acres
fairbanks ak 99712
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#59
Man all you guys got builds going on. I really want to get out and work with each of you. Just no time. I haven't been able to work on my own stuff in a month or more. Maybe soon I'll make it out.
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#60
Delayed for a little . will be there at 7
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#61
I am so lost. Definitely need help on this one
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#62
If things didn't go so weird here, I'd help, but.......
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#63
I just don't know where to start. I am starting out on the intake manifold,
I got two sets of gaskets of different material. rubber compound and one metallic like .. and then there is a choice of cork or rubber for the front and rear seals . not sure what to use or what to do to prep it.

I'm postponing my build on the motor till I can get some help. I spent too much money on parts thusfar to screw it up due to my own ignorance.

ill post some pics as soon as I get home to upload them to my computer.
steps and instructions are much appreciated.
I'll be willing to work on it Christmas eve and the day after Christmas if anyone wants to come out.
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#64
Are these necessary?!
[Image: IMAG0034.jpg]

I tore the instructions. took a pic of it while holding it together.
[Image: IMAG0035.jpg]
[Image: IMAG0036.jpg]

I have no idea which ones to use. The blue ones are the FIT brand I got from PORTS machine shop. The rubber ones I got from NAPA. The front and rear seals I have the choice of cork or rubber like I mentioned in the prior post.
[Image: IMAG0033.jpg]
[Image: IMAG0030.jpg]


Set the timing to ZERO degrees with the #1 piston all the way in the back to the left
[Image: IMAG0032.jpg][Image: IMAG0031.jpg]
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#65
Use the good ones from ports for the intake. Be sure to use a good one for the head as well. I prefer the rubber ones for the front and rear main seal. I use cork for the valve covers. Now these are my preferences. People have a lot o opinions on gaskets. And you will get a million different suggestions, opinions and combinations. You just got to research and use what you think is best. I may have time one evening next week to get out there but I'm not going to promise.
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#66
I just realized the front seal you were referring to wasn't the main seal. Use the rubbers ones though.
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#67
#1 back and to the left? Should be front and right as you look at it. Here's a diagram.

[ATTACH=CONFIG]676[/ATTACH]
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#68
that would explain why #8 fires on the zero mark too.
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#69
#8 shouldn't fire on the zero, but should fire shortly afterward. With a distributor, 2 cylinders cannot fire at the same time.
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#70
Wher did you get that diagram mark. It's completeley wrong.

........O........
4 ..............8
3 ..............7
2 ..............6
1 ..............5
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#71
Ummm....No.

I have reverified it and that's the EXACT same pattern I've found now on at least thirty different Chevy 454 diagrams. Here's another one from Alldatacollision.

[ATTACH=CONFIG]677[/ATTACH]
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#72
Fords go up one side then up the other. Chevy's and Dodges and most of the others don't.

This also is the same as a 350, 6.2, 305 and pretty much every Chevy V8 ever.
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#73
That would explain why it looks so wrong LOL.
Every manual I own is for a Ford. i don't play with the "Off Brands".
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#74
Mark's info is accurate.
1,3,5,7 front to rear on drivers side
2,4,6,8, front to rear on pass side

firing order 18436572 - now I have to change my password!
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#75
Ford just started over with the number when they added the 2nd bank.

I had issues remembering the Ford numbering system when I worked at Seekins.

Off brand, ha ha!
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#76
somehow I am glad I didnt plop down that manifold last night. now to set it right.

I still am wondering about the manifold restriction inserts. are they necessary?

---------- Post added at 01:15 pm ---------- Previous post was at 01:03 pm ----------

called PORTS machine. they said use the ones they gave me, it wouldnt realy matter either way. Oh, and throw away the front and rear seals. (use RTV silicone, the high temp blue stuff will work)
The restriction plates are not necessary, just to help warm things up a little faster.
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#77
Use the restriction inserts, up here it will make a difference.

This stuff is easy bud. If you can tackle putting big springs up front, you can handle this.
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#78
so... there are two rods per cylinder. not sure how to tell which one is the one to watch for the correct position[COLOR="Silver"]

---------- Post added at 03:27 pm ---------- Previous post was at 03:23 pm ----------

[/COLOR]Of the cylinder
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