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K-5 Build up (Blaze)
just a thought mark, I have a front driveshaft that is too short for my front end. it has a cv at the t case, not sure if it will bolt onto your t case since it is different. (I have a np205). my driveline was made to work with the stock length springs but w/arched for 8" lift

What I was wondering is if you could use my front driveline (it is def. longer) but you would need to swap in some longer springs up front (52 or 56 inch springs maybe?)

this might work.. we just need to see how long the measurements are. How long is your distance from your t case to the middle of the axle u joint? I will have to see how long my shafts are when I get out to my parent's shop/garage next.[COLOR="Silver"]

---------- Post added at 09:26 pm ---------- Previous post was at 09:23 pm ----------

[/COLOR]oh also, the 52 or 56 inch springs should give you a 4 inch lift as they are already arched. I think you knew that already though.
Petey, I'm not going to swap springs for longer ones and move my front axle. I see what that's gotten you.

I'd have to measure, it's really short. The T-case has a yoke pointing forward and it's got a long nose, which is why the front driveshaft needs to be so short.
whats gotten me? clarify please Big Grin
here is where I am at with some 56" springs with an extra leaf or two with an overload to help keep out axle wrap.
[Image: 0930023801.jpg]
*edit pic- posted wrong one, this one has more of an idea where the tire and spring sits to get an idea what approach angle I have

i still have a good approach angle (even though I have longer springs, my tire size makes up for it Big Grin ), but then again you probably have the same approach angle because you have an 4" lift arched spring... right?
4" Skyjacker springs[COLOR="Silver"]

---------- Post added at 09:38 am ---------- Previous post was at 09:37 am ----------

[/COLOR]I'm not changing these out....
I know it's a stretch, but can I get a hand Friday night?

I get home around 5pm, figure a couple hours with wife and kiddos. Headed to the garage around 10pm and not quitting till it's ready to go on a trailer.

An extra hand or two would come in, well handy......Smile
I'll see what I can do. I have some work to do myself.
If the roads are still as bad as the wife is telling me they are, I may not be going.
You take this for what it's worth but...

The roads are normal winter roads to me. I just think everyone has gotten used to the no ice conditions and forgot how to drive. It's slick but no more than normal. People just need to calm down on the roads. I've been driving the car and haven't even slid or spun out once. The truck with crap hwy tires hasn't even had an issue. Heck the rich was clear as normal last night.
Got a couple of questions about how your Blazer did on its Maiden Voyage?

1. Did you trailer it or drive it? If you drove what kind of mileage do you think you are getting with the current set up?
2. How did the non turbo diesel with the manual tans work? a lot better or about the same as a Auto? I only have experience with that engine in a auto and I don't care for it.
3. Does your Manual have a granny gear and what gear ratio was in the 1tons that you swapped? How was the overall speed / RPM at highway speeds? If you were to build it again with a similar budget, would you change the current set up and if so to what?
4. Do you think the engine had enough power to do more challenging trails or do you need to add a turbo or other power additions?

---------- Post added at 10:04 pm ---------- Previous post was at 09:58 pm ----------

Oh, by the way Congratulations on getting your project running. I am jealous; I wish I was able to finish one of mine. I think my problem was I started too many and to large of projects at one time. The VW is a huge project to undertake and then wanting to build a replacement truck for the xj at the same time was crazy let alone the FSJ for my son that he lost interest in really quick. The willys is was and is still a dream restore truck for my retirement so I am not counting that one.
I don't know what you tried to load Don, but I cannot see it.

Blaze did great on her maiden voyage, but I need to check the timing and and steering.
Sorry, it posted in the wrong font color
1. Did you trailer it or drive it? If you drove what kind of mileage do you think you are getting with the current set up?

I trailered it. I was getting 14-15 mpg with the Suburban before I tore it down and it had the same gear ratio, same size tires, and the 3rd gear of the Turbo 400 and the SM465's 4th gear have the same 1:1 ratio. The Blazer is lighter, however I did turn up the injection pump to add more fuel/power. I shouldn't loose much if any mpg's due to the turn up. However I need to adjust the timing a bit I think. I'm putting out a bit too much smoke till it's warmed up. Granted the engine hasn't run much if at all for the last two years, so more running should help it a bunch.

2. How did the non turbo diesel with the manual tans work? a lot better or about the same as a Auto? I only have experience with that engine in a auto and I don't care for it.

Oh man, the difference between the auto to manual is night and day. The engine would always rev up slowly with the auto, but I found it didn't always put it in the correct gear. If I could've forced it into the gear I needed, it would've helped. The SM465 has a granny low, and then three normal gears. For this adventure I left the T-case in hi-range and used Lo and 1st for the most part. With the Injection pump turned up, once I got above 1400 rpm's (estimated because I do not have a tachometer) it would roar to life and pull like crazy till it maxed out around 3000 rpm's. The only time I got stuck yesterday, I was trying to not tear up the trail because we had to come back through the same spot and it had been a real bear to the tow truck. I was in Lo, and didn't spin the RT II's fast enough to clear them. Coming back through it. 1st gear with the T-case in high, seems like a great mud gear, as it seemed to clear the tires and the motor was screaming and able to maintain and pull in that gear well. I also found that 1st was perfect for riding around on the trail. I was at or just above idle a majority of the time.

3. Does your Manual have a granny gear and what gear ratio was in the 1tons that you swapped? How was the overall speed / RPM at highway speeds? If you were to build it again with a similar budget, would you change the current set up and if so to what?

Yes, the SM465 has a 6.55 granny first. In High range it still barely crawls at idle. On rocks I could see the combo of T-case low and the low gears of the SM465 giving a lot of low speed control while traversing, which I used to do a lot of when I did a lot of rock crawling in Arizona. I put a AX-15 in my ZJ back in the day and it too made rock crawling much easier. The 1 tons currently have 4.10's. Rear end is welded, front open. I have the desire to run 39-41" tires eventually. I would think that 4.56/4.88/5.13's would be a better choice with that end tire size, I also hope to eventually put a locker in the front as well. I have yet to get it above 30 mph as the front end is definitely not properly aligned. I believe it's toe'd out if I had to guess based on it handled like. I will be making a few adjustments and trying again. RPM at highway speeds should be the same as the Suburban, which per a calculator should be around 2500 rpm at 65. Which worked pretty decent before, with the top speed about 76 mph due to red line. Don't think I'd want to take the RT II's that high.

I had planned on this rig being trailered most of the time, but I do not have my own trailer at this point. Just another thing I need to work on.

I don't think I could build this thing again with the Budget I used. Kinda got lucky, and things fell into place. If I had the money, I would've used a 6.5 block with a turbo, but used the 6.2 injection pump to keep from needing a computer. I would've stuck with the SM465, but with a NP205 just because the NP205 replaced the Rockwell T221, and is supposedly stronger, but not by much. The Rockwell also is prone to failure if any leaks are detected, as the way it was built has a bearing up high that needs to be oiled.

4. Do you think the engine had enough power to do more challenging trails or do you need to add a turbo or other power additions?

I believe that with the proper gearing, the 6.2 can push this wherever I want it to go. You should've heard it. Granted, there were only open pipes, no mufflers, but above approx 1500 rpm's, it sounded and accelerated like a gasser. I have faith that the 6.2, (if it remains healthy) will do just fine and take me wherever I need to go. I have 2 more 6.2's coming to my place soon. One that's in pieces, but has lots of good parts and a block that could be cleaned up if needed, and another which runs fine and could be used as a spare or for another vehicle if wanted. A turbo would be cool, but at this point, it's very simple, and I'd like to keep it that way.

1 thing that surprised me yesterday was heat. Even with 2 heaters, the Burb never got as warm as the K-5 did yesterday. Same engine in the Burb, with the radiator covered, I could barely maintain 170-180 degrees. I had put a 195 thermostat in before Jakes run 2 years ago, and it still never got over 180. I had removed the mechanical fan, and put dual electric fans in. Now, it was about 20 degrees yesterday so it wasn't -30 but, I had no problem maintaining 195, and got it up to 210 before I had turned the fans on. I put the electrics on lo (they have 2 speeds) and it stayed right at 195. I didn't even have a grill on the truck, much less cardboard like before. I did figure out why I was having no issues with getting warmed up. With the auto, you always have to maintain a higher RPM to get the vehicle moving, and to maintain movement. With the SM465, I can roll around in Lo and 1st idling and running around with less than 1K RPM, which probably didn't happen with the auto. The higher RPM's would increase the volume of coolant moved by the water pump with the auto maybe keeping it from being able to stay warm.

With the ZJ I converted to a 5 speed back in 05, I loved the fact I could crawl on a rock in low range, first gear at idle instead of having to rev to 1600 rpm to do the same thing.

I may put a hand throttle on the shifter so I can modulate the throttle a bit slower and more smoothly over rough terrain. I could also use it as a throttle lock to increase the idle speed during warm up.

Thanks! Once you get the FSJ up and going for the kid, I'm sure he'll show more interest in it.

Hurry up and get home so we can wheel! Sorry I didn't have this thing ready to run when you were home.
We will get you going when you get back. Don
With the tunred up pump, your 6.2 could use some more air, a dual snorkel mod and K+N filter might clear up some of the smoke and give you more power.

A lot of people underestimate the 6.2, I have turned two of them up, both in H1's the difference is night and day just like you said.
Exhaust runs 1" past the rear bumper now.
A different tire installed on the RR and a better tire installed on the rim so I have a spare that holds air.
Seat belts installed in the rear seat that actually work.
Still no rear shocks. Sad
Still no winch. Sad
Power steering pump that is not healthy, it sometimes works. Sad

To do yet tonight:
1. Install chains
2. Load tools
3. Load sleds for kiddos
4. Make lunches for tomorrow
5. Get some sleep

1. Load on trailer and get myself there.

On an interesting note, I topped off the fuel tank tonight. I have two 55 gallon drums in the shop, but put 5 gallons in a small tank (So it's easy to measure) and topped the tank. After running 33 mile, I used under two gallons.

For anybody else that trailered (Mel and Wayne) how much did you guys go through? Just trying to compare, as I'm pretty happy with the minimal fuel usage for the time we were out there.
Don't really know. I have about 3/4 tank still after that and tooling around the neighborhood.
Well this hasn't been updated in awhile.

So while at Wayne's the day before M&G, I grooved all four tires, have a little more grooving I want to do to the rear, but they performed great. Pulled me through the mud bog just fine once I found the correct gear-tcase range combo.

I liked the flex and wheelability on the level 2 frame twister, wanted to try level 3, but after trying the mud bog, I was done for the weekend.

I'm liking how it's working.

My 12.5K Chinese made winch pulled me out of the mud bog (up hill and turning to the left) with no alternator support) when a K2500 and even a backhoe utilizing it's stilts and hydraulics couldn't. Guess the Winch mount I made and the fairlead mount Wayne and I made held up great!

To the bad. The clutch pressure plate is so packed with sticks from the mud bog, that it will never clean out. I pressed it with Kevin's shop press and could only get little bits out.

I know many who don't run inspection covers on their manual transmissions and even in mud, have few if any issues. Guess I was the unlucky one. May try to fab up a cover now....

To replace the mud packed alternator, I picked up a 108 amp. The one that came off was a 70 amp. Big Grin

Gonna try to pick up just a pressure plate tomorrow, anybody got time in the evening either Wednesday or Thursday to help me get my transmission back in? I have the transmission jack adapter to lift the beast, but another set of hands would be greatly appreciated.

Oh also blew the output shaft seal on my Rockwell t-case. Luckily Napa could match the number on it. I should have the replacement later this week.

After fixing the current issues, here's what I hope to put on the future build lists...
1. Make Bumpers rear with 2" receiver built in and possibly a spare tire carrier.
2. Make some rock sliders
3. Make a better 4x2/4x4 shifter assembly
4. Move and brace the driver's seat. It's crooked and not fully secured.
5. Fix up exhaust mounts so that there is less vibration against other bolts and so I can get rid of all the safety wire.
Always run an cover, even with a cover i have had mud packed it the clutch.

I haven't updated this in awhile.

So, new clutch is in.

Went to remove it from the trailer and the starter seems to have either given up the ghost or I have a wiring problem. So I tried to just roll it off the trailer and it wouldn't budge. Tires were locked up, axles fine, transmission in neutral. Disconnected the shafts and got it off the trailer. Then found when I removed the t-case shifters that somehow the range selector went about 2 inches further out than it ever should have. Moved it back to a more appropriate place and things again turned as they should.

Thanks to an overly hectic schedule, I haven't had time to work on it. Gonna try to clean the shop and make room for it, so I can thaw it out and finish it up.

To be running I need to
1. Fix starter wiring
2. Come up with a better T-case shifting mechanism.
3. Cover the floor pan over the new t-case levers.

If I do this I can wheel. So yeah gonna try to work on it. And rebuild a bathroom, and a bunch of other stuff I won't bother you guys with.
When are you gonna finish this thing?
Soon, as in, it's starting to get put back together.

I've already cut the steel to make a few improvements and prep it for Rainbow in a few weeks.
So, a few weeks ago was trying to move this and realized I had improperly installed the transmission top cover....

Of course this was right around the time I injured my ankle, so to make it quicker I tried to remove the center floorpan cover, and it disagreed with being removed, so the grinder gave me a hand and I got it off, installed the top cover properly and moved it around the yard.

The list is here to keep my mind on what I have to do. Yes, the list hasn't changed much...I know

1. Fix starter trigger wiring
2. Fix Glow Plug trigger wiring that apparently works only when it wants to.
3. Make T-case shifters, somehow
4. Reattach or create a floorpan cover. I have two donor rigs I could borrow them from to make one that isn't so holy. I had already cut a few holes for the previous t-case shifters I was trying to use.
5. Clean bead of one tire, air up and reinstall.
6. Tighten all Lug nuts!
7. Try to adjust drag link so I get equal steering in both directions
8. Tie in old trans cooler to the PS system to cool the fluid.
9. If there is time, swap PS pump. Mine doesn't work that well, have a few laying around that worked better last time they were used.

Then if that isn't fun enough,
1. Pull axle on trailer
2. Take axle to town to find a replacement axle
3. Install new axle, lube bearings, wire up brakes and verify it's good to go.
Scored a set of hummer beadlocks and a set of weld in inserts. May need help putting these to good use.

My list is getting shorter.

1. Make T-case shifters
2. Reattach or create a floorpan cover
3. Try to adjust drag link so I get equal steering in both directions
4. Tie in old trans cooler to the PS system to cool the fluid.
5. Swap PS pump
I have a 205 shifter that you can have for now, just trade me something cool in the future. I am going with a NWF cable shifter!
Unfortunately, my Rockwell T221 is a unique bird. Very little from a 205 works on it.

I may be able to make something out of your shifter though. So, let me know when it's a good time to meet up.

I couldn't post in your bed roll thing, I won't have time until Thursday or Friday after work.

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