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K-5 Build up (Blaze)
#53
Of course....The more folks that show the quicker this will go.

With any luck I'll have the driveshafts by Thursday, pop in new u-joints and be rolling under it's own power.
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#54
Pete stopped by, and while it's not where I had hoped, it's much further than it was.

Accomplishments
1. Top off Trans/T-case fluid levels
2. Install heater core hoses
3. Tighten engine mounts
4. Swap core supports on my front clips
5. Installed front clip (minus one mount that's missing).
6. Shim doors so they work better
7. Swap tailgate.
8. Install oil cooler lines
9. Adjust body so tailgate actually closed


Still to do
1. Install new u-joints in the drivelines.
2. Install drivelines
3. Weld linkage for 4wd actuation of the T-case.
4. Cut part of linkage so HI-N-LO shifter will work independently of the other.
5. Install aftermarket oil pressure, coolant temp, and voltmeter
6. Install exhaust
7. Install Starter
8. Install radiator
9. Rewire glow plug system and clean up wiring under the hood.
10. Install batteries
11. Cut metal plate and install seats on it, then cut and install the brackets to install seats in the interior.
12. Install shifter boots
13. Run wiring to tailgate window.
14. Put 5 gallons of fuel in it, prime fuel system.
15. Top off oil
16. Fire it up
17. Re-check all fluids and top off as required.
18. Take it for a spin!

Added a few steps, but that's part of life.

Will probably go out and work on it every evening starting between 8 and 9 and going to midnight till it's done. Maybe later if I can.

Call, text, or just stop by if you could lend a hand.

If anybody needs a place to work on their projects this winter, you know all you have to do is ask.
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#55
I did get my driveshafts back today, but was given a warning with them. The splines are pretty worn, so I was informed that I should start looking for a newer set before long.

I'm going to pick up some guages and tear out more of the factory wiring to the engine tomorrow. The mess I have now just frustrates me.
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#56
I'd say I'll be there tonight, but with a wedding rehearsal, then dinner, then Kris mentioning some family Christmas movie time... I dunno. We'll see. If I can make it you'll know when I get there!
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#57
Nicki is sick, so I cannot go out until everyone is sleeping.

Probably no earlier than 10 or 11. Which kinda sucks.
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#58
Picked up a few pieces today.

Now I'll have two new radiator hoses.

A new set of gauges for oil pressure, water temp, and volts.

I'm sure I'll find more things that I'm missing, but who knows. Maybe I'll get lucky.
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#59
I was hoping to go out there tonight, but things haven't worked out at this point.

I am going to head out first thing in the morning.

I know, I need to get moving on this...

Heck, depending on what happens tomorrow I might have to fly to PA Sunday or Monday.
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#60
Radiator is in!

A WHOLE BUNCH of wiring has been removed from the engine bay. Leaving the essentials (alternator, starter, and IP power) setting up a separate trigger for the Hi-idle and advance, and setting up a starter relay for the glow plugs to get rid of the automatic thingy that doesn't always work.

I will be running a mechanical Oil pressure and coolant temp sensor to simplify things a bit.
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#61
I also need to fabricate some way to hold my electric fans on. At this point, they're not installed because I didn't have a way to do it.

I don't think that it will hold me up at the moment since it's cold enough I don't believe overheating will be an issue.
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#62
You might want to get one on. Youd be suprised at what can overheat even in this cold. You gonna be good enough to go on sunday?
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#63
I'm trying. I'm gonna go out there tomorrow night and try to work till it's done.

We'll have to see how that goes. Wife's still sick. Which isn't helping.

My hold up right now is a starter relay, didn't realize mine was AWOL till after Napa was closed and I don't know if they will be open on Sunday or not.

I still have to work on seats and belts and finish several things.

I don't know if it's gonna be ready Sunday afternoon or not. It would really help if the wife wasn't sick.
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#64
I got one on the 6.2 on my parts rig. Lemme know if you dont have luck finding another one[COLOR="Silver"]

---------- Post added at 11:13 pm ---------- Previous post was at 11:12 pm ----------

[/COLOR](for the starter)
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#65
I need the starter relay (one from a Ford) to trigger the Glow plugs manually. I came up with another way to do it if I have to though.
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#66
Well, not quite as much done tonight as I had hoped, especially considering I stayed out there until after 4am.

1. Set up the glow plug relay.
2. Mel knocked out two of the three u-joints that needed changing.
3. I set up the H-N-L shifter of the T-case
4. Starter Installed
5. Tied down one battery and broke a bolt on the other tray.

That's it.

I battled the T-case linkage for over four hours. Welded up six different experiments attempting to shift the H-N-L range shifter, and all broke either the welds or on one occasion, I broke the T-case shifter lever! Guess I put a little too much into that one. Finally when I was about to give up, I got an idea while looking at the stock shifter, I put it in the hole that we had designated for the H-N-L shifter, and had to re orientate the innards, but once I did, it worked. It's a bit on the tough side, but hopefully it'll get better after we roll for awhile.

We had another complication. While Mel was changing U-joints we had to chuckle. I had a 1310, 2 1350's and 2 1330 to 1350 conversion joints sitting there, the 1310 went into the front shaft. We had to use a 1350 on one side of the rear shaft (thought it was supposed to be a 1330 to 1350 joint) and the other side looks like it needs a 1310 to 1350 joint. ARGH!!! So I ordered the wrong joints. Whoops! I'm not overly thrilled about the 1310's on the rear shaft, but at this point I don't have another choice. I am frustrated that it appears a stock K-5 rear u-joint is a 1330. It's a bit bigger, too bad whatever donated this shaft to me was weird as well. It would have been nice to have another straight up 1350 joint, or if needed the 1330 to 1350 joint.

Guess I'll just have to plan on having new shafts made someday, maybe even upgrade to 1410 or 1450 joints with flanges!
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#67
thats what Im going for!
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#68
Got a lot done today.

Installed the rear driveshaft.
Installed the dual electric fans and set up their relays and wired them in, for both hi and low speeds.
Installed the relay for the hood spots and wired it to the dash.
Reconnected a bunch of the grounds around the motor and hooked up the batteries to see how the electrics were in this K-5, hadn't tried up to this point.
And as I had figured, I have a bunch of electrical work to do.
1. The Park lamps worked, so that was a minor miracle
2. The Dash illuminated
3. The interior lamps illuminated whenever the front doors were opened.
That's where the stock wiring found it's limits. Nothing else worked. So I'll be checking a bunch of other stuff and go from there.

I haven't worked on this for a long time, it seems as if there's always something that keeps me from going out to work in the shop. However I'm getting ambitious and want to get this thing going so I can make M&G this year.
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#69
sometimes ya gotta just make sacrifices and make the time and catch up on other things later. I too have been in this situation!
good to see you got some forward movement!
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#70
Found some seat brackets to make my seats work.

Pulled a few other small pieces from a couple of parts rigs, have a bunch more to get, need to finish parting out a K-5 and a Suburban so I can throw the bodies away.
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#71
AKMark Wrote:Found some seat brackets to make my seats work.

Pulled a few other small pieces from a couple of parts rigs, have a bunch more to get, need to finish parting out a K-5 and a Suburban so I can throw the bodies away.

When can I come by and help you strip the black burb?
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#72
Of course.

My goal is to have both bodies thrown away by Meet and Greet. (Mid June)

I'm more interested in getting the K-5 running first, then teardown of these monsters.
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#73
HOLY CARP!!

I haven't updated this since May?

Well it runs.

Here's the list of things to finish this week (evenings). I'd like to do a shakedown run on Repp Saturday (quickie) to ensure I didn't forget anything before I haul it all the way to Delta.


1. Install front driveshaft
2. Install exhaust pipes
3. Install passenger side and rear seats (gotta find belts, hopefully will have them by Wednesday)
4. Install shift boot
5. Install brake light switch
6. Install tow hooks
7. Remove tow hitch from other K-5 and install on this one. (Not necessary if we move a hook to the rear)
8. Replace driver's door window (it shattered)
9. Fix fuel gauge wiring
10. Top off all fluids


Wishful thinking
1. Install homemade winch mount
2. Cut a few pieces of C-channel I have and make a front bumper
3. Cut a few more pieces of C-channel and make a rear bumper
4. Install dash pad
5. Put a bedliner material on floor or at least something with a little grip.

If anyone has some time after 9pm any evening this week let me know. I could use a little help getting it finished up.

I know, I should go out right now.....
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#74
:nopics::nopics:

oh, and I have the 16.5" wheels for you if you still want em. one of them is bent a little for some reason.
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#75
Yes, I want them.

I will have some decent tires, one of these days.
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#76
Crap

Driveshaft isn't working. The Front driveshaft front U-joint won't pinch down enough to get the clips in....It's the original 1967 shaft that was attached to the T-case when I got it.

It's also super short, and the slip portion doesn't move very easily. I've been researching trying to find a 1310 series U-joint that's a fraction narrower, but no dice.

So, I may take the current shaft with me and see if a place in Atlanta can help me rebuild it. If not, no 33 mile run for me... Sad

Even if I get it, I'll need some help to get a few things done to be able to take it to Delta the day after I get back.[COLOR="Silver"]

---------- Post added at 09:30 pm ---------- Previous post was at 09:28 pm ----------

[/COLOR]
AKMark Wrote:1. Install front driveshaft - has an issue
2. Install exhaust pipes - would be easier to get from ds in if these were not installed
3. Install passenger side and rear seats (gotta find belts)
4. Install shift boot
5. Install brake light switch
6. Install tow hooks
7. Remove tow hitch from other K-5 and install on this one. (Not necessary if we move a hook to the rear)
8. Replace driver's door window (it shattered) - Done
9. Fix fuel gauge wiring
10. Top off all fluids

Updated my list. If anyone is free next Friday (21st) I could really use a hand getting this together.
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#77
anyway of shaving (grind) the yoke ends enough to fit the clips in? I am only trying to imagine this.
If you bring the blazer by my parents I can weld on some hooks to the frame.
tow hitch in the rear- cant you just latch on a D ring?
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#78
They are the outboard style, so no amount of grinding is gonna help. The slip splines are sticky too, so at this point I'm going to take the shaft with me to Atlanta and see if I can get the end yoke replaced completely.

I hope to upgrade to a Hi-angle front driveshaft and put flanges on both the Axle and T-case, but that's a ways down the road, and this front driveshaft is nearly as short as a TJ rear.

I'm hoping this one will get me through for awhile. Want tires and a few other goodies first before I spend big bones on a driveshaft.

I have tow hooks, and bolts, just gotta install.

I have a hitch, just on another K-5 sitting in the yard. Figured putting a hitch on serves two purposes, 1. Makes a good tow point. 2. Allows me to tow the groomer/club trailer, or whatever else I want.

In a pinch I can put one of my hooks in the rear temporarily so I have a rear tow point, if I don't have time to pull the tow hitch from the other K-5.

The rear bumper is currently a cylinder welded to the old bumper mounts. Don't think it's very sturdy, def not a tow point.

There is a welder on site at the moment.
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