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Tj 6" lift and 3/4 ton axles
#1
Started out by putting the 6” lift on the front so that I could make sure with the stock axles in place everything lined up correctly. Started out laying all the pieces and parts out.
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Then took some “before” pictures.
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Used the Engine hoist to lift the front off the ground so the axle was at full droop, then supported the frame behind the tires with jack-stands.
Spring Comparrison
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The worst part of doing this was where they tell you to drill for the track bar bracket – they tell you to drill from both sides to line up the holes (smart thinking) except the steering box and radiator are in the way of doing that – so you either have to remove both of those or try and drill from one side through the frame extremely straight so the holes line up good enough. Then on the outboard you have to drill to 29/32nds. Why not make it bigger to 1” – I had one of those drill bits. 29/32 set me back $50. So if anyone else does this lift and needs to rent a drill bit…. You can see the bolts that went through the bracket behind the tire in the after pic
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Again, these are “after lift installation” pics with the stock axle and 35’s
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Then I tore the rear axle and stock suspension out
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Then to measure and figured angles of all the brackets. Cut them off (fought that a while with a grinder – then borrowed a small plasma cuter from a friend of a friend and made short work out of bracket removal.)
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Set the pinion angle at the same of the original, not thinking that this was a bit higher pinion to begin with – the angle will still work though.
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Tacked the brackets in place and double checked all angles
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Then welded.
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How do you get a heavy axle into place without killing yourself? Enter Garden cart to the rescue.
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It actually rolled right underneath the Jeep and we bolted the top links in while still on the cart.
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We ratchet strapped the axle to the Jeep, then lifted the jeep with the engine hoist, removed the cart, lowered the axle onto the floor jack and finished installation.
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Comparison – one of these things is not like the other! 6” lift installed but ¾ ton axle in rear with 37 and stock axle in front with 35’s.
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Then – remove front axle.
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Used the garden cart again to take it in the garage – while putting it on the jack-stand the cart flipped – and the axle landed like this:
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So I got to the point of removing the front brackets on both axles.
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Need to weld them in place, reinstall, and figure out how to hook up the steering linkages. Of course, there is still the ARB compressor to install with wiring and switches – an electrical gremlin to chase – and he will need an adjustable rear track bar! Rock sliders and removable mud flap will also be put on.
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#2
so is this a 6 inch short arm lift or did you have to cut the brackets off the frame and relocate them? also is the rear axle going to contact the gas tank at stuff?
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#3
It's a short arm kit and seems to be forward of the 1/2 way point, so I don't think there will be any clearance issues with the gas tank.
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#4
wow I would like to see the control arm angles, 6 inches of lift on a short arm, I did not even know they made a lift like that, i am courious how well its going to flex. and ride. With the amount of lift and the short arms seems like the control arms would be at an extreme angle and cause it to ride real ruff, and flex like crap. but I may be wrong, I cant wait to see how it turns out!!
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#5
Geoff's TJ was 6" of lift on a short arm.
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#6
AWESOME write up Kev!!! You HAVE been busy!!! Wish I was there to lend a hand (or get in the way...). LOL!!! That is a BIG job, glad you are having fun with it!
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#7
Having just gone through this with an 8.8, I don't envy you. Looks like you're doing a bang up job.
"Thumbs up" (my smilies aren't working)
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#8
TJVigilante Wrote:Geoff's TJ was 6" of lift on a short arm.

true story.

But... I did not have a dana 60 and 37s.
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#9
I am not Bashing it just courious to see how it turns out. But it looks like you have a TON of work in that thing!! Looks good Kevin!
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#10
Here are the front lower control arm brackets, shock brackets, spring brackets, and sway bar brackets welded in place.

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I have consulted a few other fabricators for some advice on this project. Two issues were the thought of welding suspension brackets to cast and the fact that the steering was not going to line up very well.


To address the welding to Cast, Jeepmaddness came over to look at some things (actually the steering issues) and mentioned the Dana 30 was cast iron but the D44 was cast modular steel that would accept welds much better - but cutting off the old bracket (cast iron) and trying to weld that wouldn't be optimal.

So he said he could make me a new one out of steel. He took measurements and the bushing and returned the next evening with this:

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Here it is sitting on the housing of the D44 – obviously needs some grinding to sit flush

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Ground a bit

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There was a bit more grinding needed after that last picture, but here it is sitting nicely in place

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And here it is welded with the bushing

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Here you can also see the passenger side upper control arm bracket in the background. Since the D44 pumpkin was taller, the upper control arm bracket was higher, thus the Pass side needed some adjusting to make it higher. I bent in the bottom of the bracket a bit so it would touch the top of the axle, tacked it in place, and cut and braced the bottom – raising it to the same height as the drivers side bracket on top of the pumpkin.

Justin mentioned there was only one thing he didn’t like – the Ford Blue on the diff cover – so I fixed it for him.

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Ole will make a bigger, stronger link from the steering box to the steering knuckle, and that will fix the steering link problems. Hopefully he doesn't read this first and it comes Ford Blue!
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#11
ChevyKev Wrote:Justin mentioned there was only one thing he didn’t like – the Ford Blue on the diff cover – so I fixed it for him.

BOOOOOO!!!!!!!!!
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#12
HAHAHAHAHA
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#13
Shamoo came by and help me load the axle onto the wagon so I could install. (Shamoo - Tim - in the background working on his trailer!)
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This has really been a great process: Roll under, connect upper control arms, secure with ratchet strap

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Lift vehicle with cherry picker

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Roll away wagon.

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Here most of the components are installed – Upper and lower control arms, track bar, sway bar, and springs.
Of course everything had to fight me a bit… Bolts stripped threads, ARB bullkhead fitting broke, track bar fighting alignment, etc…
All little things that aggravate, but can be overcome.

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I had to re-adjust the track bar – got it centered – then put the tires on so I could put the weight of the vehicle on and take a looksee.

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After inspection, the track bar needs adjusted again by about ¼ inch. Not a terrible process, just tends to be a pain to do.
Ole came by and measured for the steering linkage – that will be done over the weekend and Monday it will be installed.
I’m still waiting on the ARB wiring and air lines so I can install the compressor and switches. Need to trouble shoot a
lighting issue. Need to connect and bleed the brakes. Measure for drive shaft lengths and have them shortened. Then take
it for a test drive! Need to make a spare tire holder with correct bolt pattern…


Still a bit to do, but the major stuff is done.
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#14
That looks awesome, I'm still jealous. Someday....
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#15
Looks good Kevin! Looks like the back tires are on the wrong sides unless he is wanting alternating directions on the tires.
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#16
This is a serious build!!! Excellent coverage for us web wheelers!!! THANKS!!!! ;o)

It really looks good and beefy!!!! Can't wait to see it on trail!!!
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#17
A modified front driveshaft ready to be delivered... A 1350 rear driveshaft to be delivered tomorrow...


I will warranty the modification for 3 years :nerd:

However the 1.25 front driveshaft is a bit on the small side for your 37" Irok's and if your in some heavy rock:eek:

(just my 2c)
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