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Double receiver winch mount
#1
I'm doing this seperate from the project thread because it's not necessarily specific to my build. I've been yammering on about this long enough and I finally have eveything to get started.

The winch is on loan from the LJ. I just put the cute little plastic bumper panel back on in it's place. The bare winch plate was a bit unsightly.
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The winch will plug in to an older military style slave plug on the front and rear bumper. I found these in Anchorage. What e-bay had to offer was actually more expensive and didn't even have cables attached. This was a good score. The guy at AK Electrical Rebuilders tells me it's fine to ground through the frame as long as the battery is also grounded directly to the frame (which it will be) and the connections stay tight.
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I got the cable from Midwest Military in Minnesota. It wasn't as pricey as I figured so I was happy. One end will get cut short and attached to the winch in place of the original power cables. The leftover longer piece will just get a pair of jumper cable clamps on the cut end and get used for that. If I leave lights on or whatever I can jump the main vehicle battery with the isolated winch / accessories battery.

This cable was NOS and in it's original packaging...sweeeet.
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Here's the winch with covers removed and a close-up of the solenoid pack.
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You can see where the (+) cable runs in and across to the right. The (-) cable connects to the bottom side of the motor housing.
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#2
2 gauge battery cable is expensive...especially if you need 30' of it.
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#3
These will be going through the bumpers. I splurged a bit for the tubes with the forged rings.
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The front plug will hide behind the brush guard in front of the radiator. Easy. The rear is a bit more complicated. The rear bumper is actually a frame crossmember but it's really the only place to put the plug. Where it runs through I'll reinforce the hole with this 2" ID pipe.
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This is my anti-rattle hitch pin idea. Each pin costs under $5. (1/2"X4" gr8 bolt, nylock nut, washer, 1/2"-5/8"X1" spacer cut in 2) The receiver tube holes are 5/8". The holes in the mount will be 1/2". The spacers fill the 5/8 holes. The longer spacer pushes the mount against the inside of the receiver tube while the shorter spacer floats in the hole.
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Cutting and welding commences tomorrow.
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#4
Cool stuff. Where did you get your 2 guage wire and how expensive was it? (I need some as well - hopefully not 30'!)
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#5
ChevyKev Wrote:Cool stuff. Where did you get your 2 guage wire and how expensive was it? (I need some as well - hopefully not 30'!)

ABS Alaskan on VanHorn for $2.83 per foot with really good arctic flexable insulation. I almost re-thought the whole idea of wiring for a rear winch, but I'm too stubborn to change my mind at this point.
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#6
I think I'll only need 15-16 foot for the Skitzo's winch mounts.
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#7
They also have heavy duty disconnects / plugs. You were talking about front/rear mounts too, right?
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#8
SHoppe715 Wrote:They also have heavy duty disconnects / plugs. You were talking about front/rear mounts too, right?

Correcto! Thanks.
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#9
The winch mount is all welded up. It just needs some holes drilled for the winch, fairlead, and hitch pins.
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#10
Sweeto!
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#11
Got the front bumper done. Still need to drill holes in mount.
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I tacked the tubes and the flanges with the bumper on, marked the holes in the crossmember, then took the bumper off for welding.
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The back edges of the forged rings are nowhere near the same. I had to carefully measure from the inside face of the bumper to the holes to get the tubes the exact same depth.
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#12
Here are some mock-up pictures with the winch just sitting on the mount.
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#13
Looking Great man.
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#14
i applaud innovation!
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#15
BEEF.
What's that truck weigh again? What winch are you going to use? What's your mount weigh without the winch?
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#16
sevenslats Wrote:BEEF.
What's that truck weigh again? What winch are you going to use? What's your mount weigh without the winch?

The data plate reads 5500lb but I guestimate close to 6000 with the V8, hard top and other goodies.

I'm temproarily using the 9.5ti from the LJ until I give it back and get something a bit beefier for the beaver.

The mount weighs about 10lb by itself. Not using plate saved a bit of weight overall. I'm not worried about handles 'cause I can grab the fairlead and top of the housing to wrestle the assembly into place.
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#17
Looks beefy enough, if that don't pull ya out your really stuck
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#18
Why the double mount if it's only a 6k rig? I've seen singles work for that before. But then again, I've seen triples for less.
I would have thought your truck was heavier than that.
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#19
More pictures of my anti-rattle concept.
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#20
sevenslats Wrote:Why the double mount if it's only a 6k rig? I've seen singles work for that before. But then again, I've seen triples for less.
I would have thought your truck was heavier than that.

Why a 9.5K or more winch when a single class 2-3 hitch can only hold....? That's always been my issue with receiver hitch winch mounts.

I think the truck's heavier than that too but I've never weighed it.
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#21
Looks really good Steve. Are you going to have to unbolt everytime you switch from front to rear, or do you have other plans for a qd?
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#22
I was thinking the same thing, seems time consuming
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#23
I'm thinking 4-5 minutes to switch to the rear using a pair of 3/4" wrenches. Maybe 10-15 if wading through hip-deep goo. That's nothing compared to turning a full sized rig around in a tight enough spot using a front winch when you're already stuck. Realistically it'll spend most of it's life on the front and get moved to the rear only if absolutely needed. I actually won't be able to open the tailgate with it on the back.
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#24
And it's finally done.


The rear has 3 tubes so a trailer and the winch can be hooked up at the same time. This'll come into play if I ever have to winch a dead vehicle onto a trailer. Or if pulling a trail trailer I may have to disconnect the trailer for an obstacle then winch the trailer up to the truck.
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This thing sits rock solid with those 2 anti-rattle bolts holding it in there. It takes a bit of persuasion to line the holes up for the collars but it's really not too bad to wrestle into place.
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#25
Very nicely done.
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#26
SHoppe715 Wrote:...The rear has 3 tubes so a trailer and the winch can be hooked up at the same time. This'll come into play if I ever have to winch a dead vehicle onto a trailer. ..

That's going to be more handy than you could have planned, I predict.

Looks real good. Too cold for paint?
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