friend of mine on another board rolled his explorer and squashed the roof pretty good. :eek: Has me thinking a cage might be needed sooner than expected. I don't like exo-cages... so.... who here has built an internal cage and how much $$$$ and time would I be looking at?
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Contact Holeproof. He has some good prices. and does excellent work.
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well if he sees this I'll let him post up... after his thing in the joke forum I'm not sure he's looking for business right now :eek:
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Mousee - but Im not too sure if he is slowing down on work or not..
I second the holeproof as well.
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yeah, pretty sure mousse's done. :bad: at least I got a bumper out of him lol
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I paid $300 shipped for mine. But then again, everybody makes TJ cages so they're pretty cheap.
Holeproof will hook you up!
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go custom man, you'll like the option of choice and result.
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i agree with custom... i will be making an internal for the brown truck, but only because it will be getting bucket seats and i want to open up the inside... you should have a lot of room to custom build one in the sploder... plus if you ever wanted to add some bling you could hang screens from the bars :thumbsup:
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Yes, internal cages are very difficult. Eric has a good point. Not only do you get to weld 360 inside but doing so while trying to not catch anything else on fire is also fun!
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Some hard points to consider, but I dont think there would really be much inside welding. Thinking like an exo, wouldn't it be just as strong with an internal cage if it was done like an exo? Weld it together outside the rig in sections that will marry up to other sections with bolts and nuts inside the rig. Don't know if anyone was even thinking this way instead of all welded inside the vehicle.
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That’s a very bad idea. Do we all remember what happened to Dave’s exo bolts that where grade 8? They sheered off. Where do you think that bolt head and nut would go in side a closed rig? I wouldn’t what that stuff over my head. Yeah we bolt it to the floor and to the wheel well and so on but that’s not as strong as the steel and tube use in a cage and tends to rip or bend before bolts break. There are roll cage couplings you can get that will do away with having to weld inside but that only makes price go up more. Plus can't much get more then one bar in though a door or rear hatch as it is.
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Point noted. Just something I had thought of and wondered if it would work.
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Maybe it still could. What about doing it this way, then spot welding the nuts and bolts in place after securing. I know one downside, you wont get it back out of the truck. Does it really need to come back out though?
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Truth be I haven’t looked at the inside of the truck. So I shouldn’t say yes or no on any of it. I was just voicing my concerns.
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Year right. I don't claim to be an expert at anything.
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I've always built roll cages for one of two reasons. In a 4x4 for a light roll on a trail or in a rig used at high speeds where real rollover protection and cage strength is critical. I've had 6 4x4 cages built for the rigs I have owned and wheeled over the years and have tested 3 of them in accidents. Every accident was on a hwy at 55 plus mph. I never have rolled over on a trail, knocking on wood now... I'm a firm believer if you going to the effort of building a cage designed it for a high speed collision unless it a trail rig that never sees pavement.
The last roll over I did was in a 68 Bronco. The previous owner was a desert racer and used it as a chase rig. It had a built cage tied into the frame with shoulder harnesses. I rolled on black ice and endowed up and embankment of the hwy three times and rolled back down onto the middle of the hwy another four times. I was then t-boned by the next rig to come around the corner. I survived but with a pretty bad concussion.
Build them tough it could save your life.
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