New to Alaska

[jeepin_guy]

Hello again AO! Thanks for the warm welcome on the new-comer thread.

I have been contemplating the build on my '05 Rubicon Unlimited, and was looking for some AK-specific info. If you all don't mind, I'm just gonna throw out a bunch of questions, and please feel free to reply and answer as you wish.

AK-specific...
1) What do you all recommend for block-heaters, fuel tank heaters, etc. for the winters? Are they necessary? What all kinds of cold-weather prep do you need? Oil-circulators, block heater blankets, etc...?

2) We are looking at buying a second car for the wife. We really like the VW Touareg with the V10 TDI twin-turbo diesel. How are diesels in the cold AK winters? Anyone have any comments or reviews on the Touaregs?

More general...
3) I want to do a long-arm lift on the Rubicon. I'm looking primarily at the Rubicon Express 5.5" long arm, and the Nth degree 6" long arm kit just re-released by American Expedition Vehicles. What input does anyone have on these lifts? What do you recommend?

4) Having a Rubicon, I already have decent axles, lockers front and rear, etc. so I think the rest of my drivetrain is fine for now (I know, there's much better out there, but I'm OK with the factory stuff until the budget allows for more.)

5) For protection I'm looking at an almost all-ARB setup. I like the ARB front bumper with the built-in winch mount, and the ARB rear bumper with tire carrier. Any input?

6) Speaking of winches... I've had a Warn XD9000i before. Was extremely impressed and happy with it. For this I'm looking at either going with the XD9000i again, or the 9.5si, or the Power Plant Dual-Force (winch/air compressor combo). Does anyone have any reviews on the dual-force? Does anyone know if it would even fit in the ARB bumper?

7) Since all of this is going to be done in stages (unless I rob a bank in the mean-time) I'm probably going to stick with the factory Rubicon wheels for now. I'm thinking 35x12.50 tires. Let me hear your suggestions on gearing... I have 4.10 now, thinking 4.56 will be enough for the bigger meat. Does that sound about right? Too much?

8) 5.5" or 6" of lift should have no problem clearing the 35's at full stuff, right? I would have no problem doing an inch or two of body lift, but do I need it?

9) What other mods would anybody recommend for wheeling in Alaska? Or am I on the wrong track on anything mentioned above?

Ok... sorry to inundate you all with tons of questions. Don't have a lot of time to get on here right now, so I gotta get it all out when I can. Thanks a lot in advance for all of the input and info that is coming my way. Please feel free to provide any other input you feel might be useful to me.

My wife and I are still looking forward to getting to Alaska and meeting and wheeling with you all. See you in Feb!!

[ChevyKev]

1. winterization heaters are necessary. Most go with a block plug heater (replaces a freeze plug - heats antifreeze), an oil pan heater, and a battery pad or blanket. Although some with newer vehicles don't heat the battery. I would also highly recommend a trans pad heater. The pad heaters adhere with silicon and are easy to install - as are battery heaters. Blok heaters are a bit more complicated if not just more messy to install - depending on the accessability of the freeze plug holes. DON'T go pay ridiculous amounts to have this done. Contact club members and we'll lend you a hand at the hobby shop.

2. Diesels do fine in the winter as long as they're winterized and plugged in a bit sooner than the gas engines.

3. Ronster can give more advice on Jeep lifts - he is AOS vendor as well.

5. ARB bumpers are nice - but pricey! I think Ron can get them up here. However, if you have some more custom minded thoughts, several folks here build bumpers - and you can have whatever features you want, normally cheaper than ARB's especially considering shipping.

6. Warn is a good brand name - seems to have a good quality product. However, up here at least, when you do have problems with the Warn's, it is hard to get them serviced. As well, they are pricey. We have a T-max vendor that could not only save you money - but headaches when dealing with service down the road.

7. Gearing. With the 4:1 low range and the 6 cyl (isn't that stock rubi motor) I think your 4.10:1 gearing will work ok. Mind you, you're going to notice a difference from stock tires. 4.56's would bring you back to a lower crawl range. However, up here we have few rock-crawling trails. I'd say try the 35's fist to see how it does, then decide. That said, I know someone who does gear installs!

8. I'd look at a flat fender kit before a body lift...

9. Alaska mods - seat heaters seem very popular.

[Zukman]

Don't forget anti gel for the diesel fuel #2 diesel starts to gel at +15 and #2 starts to gel at -40.

[Bulldog]

2) We are looking at buying a second car for the wife. We really like the VW Touareg with the V10 TDI twin-turbo diesel. How are diesels in the cold AK winters? Anyone have any comments or reviews on the Touaregs?

I have two VW TDI 1.9L that do well in the winter. Just make sure you have engine and oil pan heaters. I'm looking at install the TDI Heater http://www.frostheater.com/ on my cars.

The small diesel engines don't heat up too fast, but heated seats make it bearable until the engine heats up. I'm not sure about the bigger diesel in the V10 Touareg, might warm up faster.

Bad thing about VW here in Fairbanks is that there is no dealer. There are a couple of import shops that work on them, but I do my own work. I have a VAGCOM and just bought the timing belt tools for the TDI.

I second zukman1993 on diesel additives. I use Stanadyne.

[Zukman]

Not to treadjack but i could use one of those tdi for my zuk.

[ajpthng]

Along with the heaters you may want to do something like this with your hard top http://www.arcticoffroad.com/forum/showt...light=hard

Also I have a 9000i and its worked rather well for me in the winter time.

If your looking at keeping in the stock rims you may want to think about getting some wheel spacers to keep from rubbing at full turn. Ask Ronster he had/has 33x12.5 on stock TJ rims.

As for winterization go with what ChevyKev said, do some kind of head liner like the one in the link I posted at the top and you should be good. Also you may or maynot want to put in a Mojave heater, I know NBM had one in his TJ and I think 93hummer has one in his H1.

[Ronster]

If you have the time, and the money, order your heave stuff before you leave (lift, bumpers, etc...) Shipping up here is off the chart due to gas prices. My one one big word of advice is, if you want to run a 35 inch tire, scrap the 8 inch factory rims and go with something in the 10 in class with proper backspacing. I have been running spacers and the factory 15x8 rims and wish I would have changed earler. There are a lot of people in the lower 48 who want rubicon rims, so you should be able to unload them and pick up a good aftermarket rim for almost nothing.

Creature comforts, I like an auto start and seat heaters :yes: I want to take care of the headliner this year like Tom mentioned, but we will see if it gets done, there is a lot on the plate right now.

If you make the jump to 35's, I would invest only once and get a Rubicon Express 5.5 longarm lift, or the Clayton. Dont piece one together only to decide that you wish you went the right route the first time. The 3.5 SF is good for 33's, but you will need at least another inch to run a 35 and not rub during flex.

Send me a PM if you want some price quotes and I will see what I can do to help you out.

[TJVigilante]

CLAYTON!!!!!! WOOOO!!!!

Sorry...just really really like Clayton lifts. :p

[ARCTIC_EXPRESS]

heres what you need to do to your 05 rubi http://www.arcticoffroad.com/forum/galle...3619&c=173
and make sure you upgrade your front upper control arms!

[99TJ]

Aren't the stock jeep wheels only 7 inches wide. Not sure, thoguht I came across that in my web wheelin somewhere

[Ronster]

Aren't the stock jeep wheels only 7 inches wide. Not sure, thoguht I came across that in my web wheelin somewhere

depends on the year of the jeep. 03 and newer on Canyons are 15x8.

[ajpthng]

Depends on the package your Jeep comes with. The basic rim is 15x7, my 00 had Canyons and like Ron said they are 15x8. Rubi rims I think are 16x8 but I'm not sure.

[ARCTIC_EXPRESS]

rubi rims are 16 x 8

[SHoppe715]

You shouldn't need a Mojave heater if you line the hard top. The 4.0 puts out great heat. The bare plastic hard top just sucks it all right out in the cold. I didn't do the full wrap carpet liner like Flawed, just a big rectangle of 1/2" rubber foam and black foam-backed headliner from JoAnne Fabric. (Yeah, they sell Jeep parts now :p) MUCH warmer, quieter, and seems like less inside window glare (kind of annoying when it's always dark).

To echo - shipping heavy stuff up here sucks &a!!$ but most little stuff you can usually always find or DIY locally, we're not that backwater up here.

Never - I repeat - NEVER order anything from Norhtern 4x4 Xtreme in Anchorage.

Looking forward to meeting you. Safe journey up.

[Mr Anderson]

As for winterization go with the block heater, get 150W pad heaters for the oil pan and tranny pan (if automatic). And no 150W will not burn your oil or tranny fluid. Battery pad heaters cause more problems then help. A charged battery will not freeze until -80F. If you gotta warm your battery go with a heated battery blanket that wraps around the battery. The pads that sit underneath the battery wear through and end up shorting out and then none of your winterization works. I fully recommend interior heaters, $60 at napa for a good one. They work much better in smaller passenger cabins but in larger vehicles they keep the drivers area warmer than the outside. Oh and make sure your coolant is rated to -60F. Easy to do if you are putting in the block heater.

You can go even further if you want, Amsoil makes an arctic grease, if you want to change your steering component, ball joint, cv joint grease etc.. Doesnt need to be done though. Lots of people go synthetic with all their fluids, I dont and have had no problems, but I'm cheap 1 bottle of synthetic runs as much as 3 or 4 quarts of conventional, I run 5W30 in the engine and 75W90 in the diffs.

[ARCTIC_EXPRESS]

Don't go with a battery blanket, they can cause a battery to boil. I would suggest a trickle charger with auto shut off, it keeps the battery charged and warm. battery pads work well IF the battery is properly secured, but they should be checked once a year for damage.
A seat heater is a nice option also so is a cold front on the grill. it makes a big difference in my LJ