21 Jan 07, 11:36 am
If the front is all that you have in your budget, go for it, except for hillclimbs, it will rock. Right now you are open front and rear, so you have 2 out of four spinning, so if you lock the front, now you have 3 out of 4, an increase in traction of 25%, except when the front end is unloaded (hillclimb). But in mud and rocks, you will notice a huge difference.
Personally, I'd do this, weld the front spider gears if you have a front axle disconnect, then you get the benefit of a locked front for cheap, and can still make it "open" by shifting the disconnect..... not really a selectable locker, but close. Then put like a truetrac or some other type of good "posi" in the rear that won't be as harsh on axleshafts as a true locker, but will give you much better traction than an open diff. The good thing about a truetrac is that you can use the Ebrake to sort of trick it into locking up... it doesn't really lock, but if one rear wheel is in the air and you are going nowhere, you can give it some brake and throttle and get the one on the ground to spin too. The key with this trick is not to give it too much brake.... just a little.
Personally, I'd do this, weld the front spider gears if you have a front axle disconnect, then you get the benefit of a locked front for cheap, and can still make it "open" by shifting the disconnect..... not really a selectable locker, but close. Then put like a truetrac or some other type of good "posi" in the rear that won't be as harsh on axleshafts as a true locker, but will give you much better traction than an open diff. The good thing about a truetrac is that you can use the Ebrake to sort of trick it into locking up... it doesn't really lock, but if one rear wheel is in the air and you are going nowhere, you can give it some brake and throttle and get the one on the ground to spin too. The key with this trick is not to give it too much brake.... just a little.