Adjustable upper and lower control arms

[ak_petey]

question, I have an upper and lower control arm linked to my front axle.
I am getting some weld in bungs to fab up one of my control arms so I can adjust my caster to 0 degrees.

do I make the upper or lower arms adjustable?
does it matter which one?
benefits of either one being adjustable?

[akram]

Upper for adjusting. Lower for moving forward. That's the general rule I've used in the past. But both can adjust both. I would personally do both. How far off are you? Why are you far off? If you starting rotating the axle you'll change the relationship between it and the t-case. Which is more important to me. Also all you other brackets are going to move as well. Which means if you have to move it far you are going to have to cut it all off and do it again. Weigh all options and the results of each before doing anything.

[ak_petey]

the length of the arms is not the issue. the caster is causing the camber to be off. which brings about death wobble. adjusting it may cause the pinion angle to be troublesome in the future, but the death wobble is most certainly more of an issue at the moment. Many of my parts are adjustable so there wont be major geometry changes.
If the pinion angle becomes terrible, I may resort to a shorter dual rate spring from Don Thuren. I see this as a win win situation because I would lower my COG, and correct my pinion angle, AND still have plenty of room for my 42 inch iroks.

with that info. please comment. anyone

---------- Post added at 01:56 am ---------- Previous post was at 01:53 am ----------

These are the coils I was thinking of getting:
http://thurenfabrication.com/ctdcoils.html

I am in need of some new shocks as well. the don thuren shocks should provide 10" of travel. not sure what the springs will provide.

[Dr Brian]

If you even "might" change ride height, all arms need be adjustable I think.

[akram]

Also remember you want the arms to as close to parallel as possible. If not possible it's better to have the axle end farther apart than the frame end. This is what will help keep your pinion angle good and caster good during articulation.

[ak_petey]

Also remember you want the arms to as close to parallel as possible. If not possible it's better to have the axle end farther apart than the frame end. This is what will help keep your pinion angle good and caster good during articulation.

this was also verified on a build on pirate4x4. This concern was brought up because the AAM axle bracket had a larger distance on the upper and lower control arms. the further the distance between the control arms at the front axle end than the frame end allowed for stronger stability/pinion angle during articulation-as mel just stated. some guy (search pink ram on pirate) swapped a front AAM axle into a 2nd Gen dodge on that build thread


having adjustable upper and lower arms would be ideal. I will probably shorten the uppers and just make them adjustable when my bungs come in. .. for now.[COLOR="Silver"]

---------- Post added at 03:06 pm ---------- Previous post was at 03:05 pm ----------

[/COLOR]this is a good little read for those who are bored.
http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tiretech/t...p?techid=4

[akram]

I don't go to pirate. But I do know that on the AAM axles the vertical differences is only1.5" over the Dana 60 which isn't that much and will be ok.