York Air Compressor build

[TJVigilante]

This thread will document my York Onboard Air install, as I get pictures to go along with the story.

A year ago I was contemplating adding an air compressor to my Jeep, and I was pretty dead-set on running an elecric Viair pump, because it was relatively cheap and very easy to install. I was turned onto the York belt-driven compressor instead, mostly due to my getting the compressor for a steal. The advantage of the York is the air volume...100% duty cycle, engine-driven and capable of any pressure you want...10cfm with the engine running at 2500rpm, compared to Viair's 2.5cfm peak airflow rate. it's more expensive in the end to get everything working right(expect upwards of $1000 if you go with all new, Kilby "approved" parts...my cost total will be under $600 for parts, not including tools to make it work) but hopefully it'll be well worth it.

$10 got me a junkyard-quality thing...still had oil in the crankcase and everything...all grungy with dirt and filth. I cleaned it up and rebuilt it with hand-cut thin cork gaskets(and RTV silicone between the head and valve plate). Gave it a shot of paint that turned out horribly because of a layer of brakleen still on it from cleaning it. Oh well, looks better than when I bought it anyway.



After finishing that up, I ordered some fittings from Kilby, but learned that they were the wrong ones...they're currently for sale to anyone who has the right style head.
I tried ordering the right fittings but sometime between when I ordered the first set and when I tried ordering the next set, their shipping options changed, and it would have cost more to ship than to actually buy them. So instead I decided to cut the cast-in threads off and drill/tap the head to 1/2" npt and run some lower-profile 90* fittings.

(placeholder for progress pic)

[TJVigilante]

While all that was happening, I bought and assembled parts for the system itself...coalescing air filter(oil/water separator), pressure gauge, check valve, pressure release valve, pressure switch, quick disconnect and a manifold to compile them all, as well as a 1/2" npt air filter and coil-memory hose and air chuck.



I also purchased a Kilby mounting bracket that removes the TJ serpentine auto-tensioner and relocates the alternator lower, to make room for the compressor, as well as a serpentine belt pulley, also from Kilby. These parts set me back a pretty penny...you can get the pulley through a truck supply store for half the price as through Kilby...I strongly suggest going this route. Kenworth part numbers are KA1480 for a 5-7/8", 6 groove pulley and KA1485 for a 5-7/8" 8 groove pulley.




Unfortunately Kilby has the monopoly on quality mounting brackets, and he knows it, thus charges through the nose for them. But I digress.

I'm using 1/2" npt fittings and hose from the compressor, routed around the engine bay to the filter ziptied to the core support bar on the driver's side...this is to allow the air time to cool from the compression before hitting the filter which is only rated at 150 degrees...the air can get much hotter than that. I'm going to use regular hose at first...hope that it doesn't start to blow off of the compressor fitting due to getting too hot. After the filter, I'll be running 3/8" npt fittings and hose, routed back over to the passenger's side of the engine bay where the air manifold will sit mounted to the inner fender.

I will use an existing switch and a Napa-bought 5-post relay to control the compressor, routed through a pressure switch that turns on at 90psi and off at 150. I will set the pressure relief valve at 155 psi to be safe. After installing my bodylift I will mount a 3-gallon air tank that I got for free (Thanks George!), and maybe a second one I am looking to buy from FlatblackXJ under the tub next to the rear driveshaft. This tank has a 1/2" npt outlet I can route to a quick disconnect somewhere in the rear of the Jeep to run air tools and use as a high-volume source of air for reseating tire beads. Originally green, I sanded it down and painted it with Rustoleum Hammered style black paint after cutting off two large, unnecessary mounting brackets with a dremel.



I will post in-progress pictures of the install as soon as I start to work on it.

[TJVigilante]

Small hiccup: Do not drill and tap the discharge port of your York compressor for 1/2" npt. It does not have enough material...you'll just cut the inner portion of the port clean off (and burn your finger when you touch it right after drilling). Drilling and tapping the intake port for 1/2 is fine, but the discharge side should stick to 3/8". I'd do this for both the flange and rotolock/tube-o heads just to avoid paying $50 (shipped) for some Kilby fittings. Borrow or use existing drill bit and taps, $10 worth of fittings at Alaska Rubber and Rigging, and you're good to go.

Personally, since I already have the flange fittings and noone is looking to buy them, I'm in the market for a flange style head for this compressor so I can get it installed and on the road. This will let me return my drill bits, thread tap, and the new set of fittings I purchased for this project...a $65 return from an accidental screw-up. Whoda thunk it?

[sevenslats]

Put up some pics of the carnage. That was a darn shame.

[TJVigilante]

Got around to starting this install...got the alternator and bracket removed, auto tensioner pulley bolt was siezed so I drilled out the bolt, no damage to the pulley but the auto tensioner is toast...past the point of no return now unless I want to buy a new one from the stealership. Got the Kilby bracket and alternator all snugged in and bolted up, air compressor put back together and mounted on the bracket....serpentine belt is too short, by at least an inch. I have it routed correctly, no go. Now I have no Jeep until i can get the right length belt locally, or a replacement from Kilby (yeah right, good luck on that).

I'm just a little cheesed right now. No pictures of the install, I'll probably go out and take some pictures of me taking it apart before selling everything...this just pissed me off way too much to mess with it anymore.

[sevenslats]

Did youthink this was gonna be easy?
take a break, take a nap, take a swim...
take the dodge to napa with your incorrect belt to size up a new one. More folks than you can imagine walk in there needing a belt for an unknown year/make/model.
:highfive:

[TJVigilante]

Yeah I'm going to do that today, but that's an added cost on the build that I thought was covered. Nickel and dime left and right.

[sevenslats]

more like Ulysses and Benjamin.

[TJVigilante]

Well got a 108" belt(supposed to be 106.6) and it was still pretty tight but it worked. Now I have to mount the tank, wire the relay/switch, and adjust the pressure release valve to 155 psi, then test the system. I got it up to 50 before the release valve popped off, I want to get it mounted before testing to 150.

The tube coming off of the compressor didn't get too hot, even from before I turned the check valve around and the pressure built up so much that the compressor started shaking the engine, before the manifold and pressure gauge. yeah, that could have been bad.

[TJVigilante]

Success! All that's needed is to mount the tank, wire the relay and switch, and run the last few bits of line and tie any loose line up out of the way, especially the one running under the radiator. Probably should find a better place for that...

Pressure tested the tank and the system to 160 psi before the pop-off valve went off...that's a good thing. Shows the tank, the oil filter, and all the other stuff can take the pressure, and all my manifold stuff is sealed up nicely. Drilled a hole for a bulkhead fitting and quick disconnect inside the tub out of the driver's side wheel well, my Dreme quit on me using the grinder to widen the hole enough for the fitting...so I popped the grinding wheel into the drill and finished the job.

Oh, and I dropped the gas tank to clean the skid out...lost another 25 lbs from the mud crammed in there and in the tub around it. Now I can't put it back...it weighed more than I thought and it's awkward. Hopefully Corey can stop by tomorrow and give me a hand.

Someday I'll find a way to make up a mounting plate for another pressure gauge for inside the Jeep...I'm thinking recessed down by the t-case shifter...I'll need some strap steel to bend up and a hole saw. Get another bulkhead fitting and a barbed fitting to match, and run another line off of the t-junction that I have plugged up after the air manifold, that or I'll run it from one of the two plugs in the manifold and save the T fitting for an ARB regulator if I go that route for my front HP44 build.

[TJVigilante]

Some pics of the progress:

Low profile fittings, almost thought they wouldn't seal as I tapped them too far.



Engine bay hose routing:



Oil filter...now secured to the support bar and held tight by the hose around the wiper fluid bottle:


Manifold...I moved some of the line around and got it to sit straight, so the hood will close. I need to drill a couple holes for some long bolts to hold it down.



Pressure testing the air tank:


The yellow hose is on there because for some reason, the quick disconnect I put in there wasn't working...just let the air rush through. I need to return that and get a new one, I think.



130 psi, right after the pop off valve went off at 160 psi:

[AKMark]

Very nice Joe, glad you stuck with it and got it working.

[sevenslats]

cool. now I know who to go to after the trail ride.

Is that system maintenance-free once installed?

[TJVigilante]

Probably not...I'll need to keep checking the oil levels(which may be a bit low right now, I didn't measure.) in the compressor...a good way to know how much oil is in there once it's already been checked is to see how much is in the filter bowl. If I start spewing oil, I'll probably open the compressor and plug the vent hole in there, then make some kind of vent for the side that I can also use as a fill port.

Other than that, it's just making sure all the fittings stay tight...easy enough to do by watching the pressure gauges and listening for escaping air.

[TJVigilante]

Wiring is done, all lines are routed and hooked up...got a small leak that I can locate but it's going to be a PITA to seal up...I'm sure I can handle it. Stupid quick disconnect doesn't block the air at all, it's just a quick CONNECT. Not meant to be standing alone...I need to go out and get another one like the one in my manifold. The air hose also doesn't stretch very far...I'll probably make a hose out of the remaining 15 feet or so of line so I can air other rigs up besides my own.

I need to remind myself to put more oil in the compressor too. I don't want it siezing up on me on the trail when I'm half aired up.

[TJVigilante]

Well thanks to Corey I got the gas tank and air tank bolted up. The bolts I was going to use were too small, so I was going to just keep the tank propped in place while I went to buy longer ones and some washers, when i got to looking through my hardware bin and found some self-tapping bolts the perfect diameter for the holes I drilled(I have about 6 extra holes in my floor now...extra drainage for those wet moments) and tossed them in there...3 of them giving me some really good support on the tank. Took the jack stand out from under and started pushing on it...not budging a bit.

So, I have a small leak to worry about, then it's complete.