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+--- Thread: Update your rig status here! (/showthread.php?tid=120)
Update your rig status here! - Advent - 11 Mar 07
sevenslats Wrote:I have a bent axleshaft.
A bent shaft, or a bent housing?
Update your rig status here! - SAINT - 11 Mar 07
The new rig. won't be taking out with AO any time soon sorry guys.
http://viewmorepics.myspace.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=viewImage&friendID=44191089&albumID=0&imageID=5111402
Update your rig status here! - AKMark - 11 Mar 07
Punk! It's all good as long as you are happy.
Update your rig status here! - ChevyKev - 11 Mar 07
Blew my power steering return hose again this morning! :angry:
Update your rig status here! - 93hummer - 11 Mar 07
Well, it seems that the steering end of my Hummer likes to break all of the hoses in the winter. I noticed over the last 2 months that every time it got colder than -35, my front CTIS lines would crack and sometimes break in two... right at the spot where they needed to bend while steering. My geared hub vent lines on the front did the same thing. I fixed the CTIS by splicing in two of those air tool swivel hoses.. they are about a foot long and have a nice swivel on one end... perfect for my pivot point. These have held up fine for the last 2 weeks, but I still had a slow leak on one tire, fixed that today, it was the disconnect valve at the wheel.
So now I need to figure out a way to fix the vent lines, they are both snapped, I could splice them but the problem will just come back next winter. Is there a better type of hose that won't crack during extreme cold?
Update your rig status here! - AKMark - 11 Mar 07
Silicone hoses, saw them at Napa the other day. Pretty cool, a pack of rubber hoses was $3.50, the Silicone was $12.25. Much more in price, but it's supposed to hold up better in the cold.
Update your rig status here! - ChevyKev - 12 Mar 07
AK rubber and rigging has some super hoses that are supposed to take the cold.
My biggest problem is this is the return line that keeps blowing, not the pressure line. And yes, I have high pressure hose on it!
However inconvenient, this will now allow me to swap out to the special Amsoil tractor hydraulic fluid that I purchased way back for my PS problems. Hopefully the better fluid will make a difference as well.
Update your rig status here! - STOMPR - 12 Mar 07
Well my 87 Blazer should be running tonight at least in 2wd once I install the brake lines, bleed the brakes, and put the rear driveline in IF i can get a correct combo U Joint from Youngs Today, I have already gotten the wrong one from them on friday and what should have been the right Ujoint per NAPA book and part number on the box but wasnt on Saturday :mad:
Update your rig status here! - AKMark - 12 Mar 07
Between last night and today got the following done;
Oil change
Changed the Fan Clutch, it was seized and it caused me to fail I/M on the first attempt
I/M
Registration
Fixed defroster (vacuum switch was stuck)
Replaced the bad Orbital red for a brand new one (hey it was free, although they went through two on the shelf before they found one that was good)
Used spray glue to stick sagging headliner back up, will probably have to insert a few screws in there to hold it up.
Still need to;
Fix T-case linkage (some is missing, although I found some on the floor that I may try to use)
Fix speedometer cable (believe the gear is not connected correctly or not installed)
Replace washer fluid bottle, (old one is cracked)
Replace the radio (current one makes lots of scratching noise and drives me nuts, I've got two different ones to throw in there, but I don't like cutting the dash to install a CD player, I may do it, but I still don't like it.
Install my CB and PA
Install CB Whip antenna
Build Install new rear bumper (Kev's working on it)
Install new front bumper (I've got one to throw on it, I think)
Build and install sliders
Build tow points
Lift
Tires
So much to do and the Delta run isn't far away.
On another fun note, I checked my MPG. Going from FBNX to Eielson with a few stops and running around FBNX first I got about 17 mpg. Per my GPS I went 35.6 miles and used right at 2 gallons, (it cost 4.50 to fill up and price was $2.19) which comes out to just over 17. Not bad for an old 360 without overdrive, however I know that number will go down substantially when the bigger tires go on.
Update your rig status here! - naturalbornmudder - 12 Mar 07
I am stoked to hear that you took a gamble on the FSJ and it paid off.
The t case linkage was ripped out and not all the pieces were there when I bought it from Shawn back in the day. My intent at the time was to buy/fab a Novak and run it up to thew tranny dome of the interior. I didnt like the stock location for it.
How did you get Napa to swap out the Orbital? Did I leave the receipt in the glove box? If so, Yay, me!
Are you going to use the Ja-Make-It roof rack?
Update your rig status here! - AKMark - 12 Mar 07
I'm gonna swap the 219 out for a Jeep 208 which hopefully has all the linkage, the Q-track isn't working all that great right now anyway. I was able to do a rear burn out on at a light with no ice and the studded tires.
Orbitals have a 3 year free replacement warranty, no reciept required.
I will cut the dimples out of the rack and might attempt to make it work. I want to get some rubber (approx 1/4 thick) to isloate it from the body a bit, anyone have an old tire they are cutting up?
I think I will like the flag shifter once I get it all set up. Don't want to cut the floor pan if I don't have to, yet. I may swap to a stick sometime, but I may wait as it would require a regear, DS's, and other parts I don't want to think about right now.
Update your rig status here! - TJVigilante - 12 Mar 07
Another flat tire....dang steelies. this time I'm having Sears put alot of bead sealer on it. Maybe I'll get another road hazard replacement out of it. :p
Update your rig status here! - AKMark - 14 Mar 07
Well, last night was able to;
1. Fix speedometer, the cable was not properly installed on the tailshaft of the T-case. :whistle:
2. Measured the frame in the front and rear for bumper mounting info. KTF is starting the build of the rear bumper.
Kevin was impressed at how well it appeared to be built underneath. Very strong.
Update your rig status here! - sevenslats - 14 Mar 07
Dang it. You're gonna go and make me sorry I didn't jump on that, aren't you.
Update your rig status here! - AKMark - 14 Mar 07
YUP!
Now it's mine, all mine!
Update your rig status here! - SHoppe715 - 14 Mar 07
OK. I'm working a little again. I need to get axle parts painted and I discovered that chassis black frame paint can be applied in the cold. If I let the parts sit outside long enough before bringing them in, the paint fume smell stays outside. I just get really cold.
Update your rig status here! - crazy4ink - 15 Mar 07
Since I haven't been able to post in awhile on here (stupid wireless router!), let me bring everyone up to speed on my Jeep.
Front axle is from a '73 Ford, full width, 5.13s and detroit true trace
Rear axle is from a '79 Bronco, full width, 5.13s and a full spool
Klune-V is installed now
40" Iroks
Kenny Bell Blower is sitting on the floor patiently waiting...
Update your rig status here! - ChevyKev - 15 Mar 07
:eek: that sounds awesome Rob - but
:worthless:
you had to know that was coming.
Update your rig status here! - sevenslats - 15 Mar 07
Wow. supercharged 6-cyl, 222.17 crawl ratio, 40s, with a locked 9"? sounds painful.
Update your rig status here! - crazy4ink - 15 Mar 07
ChevyKev Wrote::eek: that sounds awesome Rob - but
:worthless:
you had to know that was coming.
Yeah, I know. I'll snap some pics tomorrow for posting.
sevenslats Wrote:Wow. supercharged 6-cyl, 222.17 crawl ratio, 40s, with a locked 9"? sounds painful.
Painful? Nah, sounds like a good time!!
Update your rig status here! - sevenslats - 16 Mar 07
My track width in the front is approx 4" wider than the rear. Would this cause erratic handling? My technical advisor says it would, but related it to a radio flyer. I'd like a second opinion. :troutslap:
Update your rig status here! - TJVigilante - 16 Mar 07
having a narrower rear axle will make your turning radius smaller(I think)...probably make it unpredictable. No personal experience though...
Update your rig status here! - sevenslats - 16 Mar 07
True on the turning radius.
Update your rig status here! - naturalbornmudder - 16 Mar 07
I dunno who your technical advisor is, but he sounds like an a$$hat.
Here is my theory: front axle 4" wider than rear axle. 6" lift springs, plenty of extra weight in the rear like spare tire carrier, tools boxes, spare parts and all that you have back there, so your weight is able to sway more because it is on a more narrow center of balance. Standwith your feettogether and have someone try to push you down sideways. Easy, right? Then stand with you feet shoulder-width apart and repeat. Not as easy, right? See?
Update your rig status here! - Advent - 16 Mar 07
As far as the rear being narrower than the front, it's perfectly acceptable. Look at all the desert racing guys who run fronts 12" wider than the rear.
The fact that it's narrower than stock is the part that might put a wrench in the mix. You're also running spacers up front that could be screwing with your steering a bit (your scrub radius is probably way off).
Update your rig status here! - naturalbornmudder - 16 Mar 07
Quote:
As far as the rear being narrower than the front, it's perfectly acceptable. Look at all the desert racing guys who run fronts 12" wider than the rear.
The fact that it's narrower than stock is the part that might put a wrench in the mix. You're also running spacers up front that could be screwing with your steering a bit (your scrub radius is probably way off).
The first statement and the second statement seem to contradict each other.
When you say perfectly acceptable, perfectly acceptable for who? Also a desert rig can be wider in front than back because it isnt serving daily driver status from Noth Pole to Eielson every day on icy roads with side wind gusts.