The axles in the Rubicon are Hybrids. Front is part D30 and part D44. Getting gears for these can be an issue. Same issues with the rear.
That's why a 6-speed is nice, you can run the bigger tires thanks to the gears already installed.
Airmanwoody Wrote:The axles in the Rubicon are Hybrids. Front is part D30 and part D44. Getting gears for these can be an issue. Same issues with the rear.
That's why a 6-speed is nice, you can run the bigger tires thanks to the gears already installed.
I've been told the Rubicon 44s are true 44's other then the axle tubes them selves. They do shair the same outers as the Wrangler dana 30 but Jeep up graded that to 44 style a few years ago. Not sure if thats all correct or not... Just what I read on line...
Makes sence about the 6 speed. It's 1st gear is alot deeper. I'm stuck with an auto with my right shoulder problems. Hurts to pick up a cup of coffee some days... What gears are avalable for the Rubi axles anyway? I might want to go to 33" down the road...
You'd be okay on 33's with the stock gears, but any bigger will be an issue.
The front D44 uses smaller tubes, knuckles, and I think that's the big part. The issue is the locker, it's a special item that doesn't take kindly to changes of any sort.
I've only read about the problems some folks have had wtih the regears on these.
Just get that shoulder fixed. Wouldn't want you spilling your coffee in the morning.
From what I've read on line most people with auto Rubicon's and 33" tires go with 4:88 gears to get back to a stock feel and 5:13 for offroad. Any of you running larger tires then stock with an auto? I'd like to see how it feels with the stock 4:10 gears.
It'll be awhile before I want to go to bigger tires though. Probubly a BB or OME lift and run it stock for awhile...
:eek: 5.13s with 33s?
You'd never need low range on any trail we run!
Seriously, I couldn't see anything under 4.56s for 33s and a 4:1 tcase.
I ran 4.10s with 33s and a 2.62 tcase just fine last year.
Plus, you're getting an auto. You'll be fine with 4.10s all the way to 36s
sevenslats Wrote::eek: 5.13s with 33s?
You'd never need low range on any trail we run!
Seriously, I couldn't see anything under 4.56s for 33s and a 4:1 tcase.
I ran 4.10s with 33s and a 2.62 tcase just fine last year.
Plus, you're getting an auto. You'll be fine with 4.10s all the way to 36s
Thats with the Automatics. They don't have the low 1st that the 6 speed does and bog down in 1st with 33" and 4:11 somewhat from what I understand...
Naw. In my experience, an auto doesn't need to regear as urgently as a manual tranny. something to do with the torque converter.
It comes with 4:11 and 31" from the factory. I can see where a jump to 33" tires would mean 4:56 or maybe 4:88. The guys on Rubiconownersforum.com seem to all think 33" tires are best suted to 4:88 to maintain stock feeling power. 5:13 for the extra grunt off road with the auto.
This is only what I was reading on line so take it with a grain of salt. I'll see for my self when the time comes but that will be awhile from now...
Well, mine came from the factory with 3.54s and 30s. I went to 31s, and noticed no loss in power. I ewent to 4.10s, and noticed that I could leave the line in 2nd gear. I went to 33s, and was back near stock feel again. This is with a 4.0 and an AX-15.
Like I said, I would not think twice about running 4.10s and 33s with an auto.
Or, I would not be afraid to run 33s and 4.10s with a manual and a 4:1 tcase.
I agree with you. I'll definatly try 33" with the 4:11 gears and see what I think first. 4:88 seems a little deep and 5:13 must be creepy crawly...
For heavy rock, those are the gears you would need. If you are going to stop at 33's, you'll be fine with the auto.
Slats, if Chrysler would put a decent auto in the Wrangler's going bigger wouldn't be a problem, but when you do now, it causes the torque converter to really heat up and overheat the tranny. Most don't realize it until it's too late.
Another question.... For you guys that bought from Gene's... Did they do anything extra for out cold weather? Other then the standard block heater from the factory? I'm wondering about a tranny heater for my auto. If I added one would it viod my warrenty?
Block heater, oil pan heater, and battery blanket are all I have on my Jeep, may have been done after the first owners bought it, but my dodge has the same thing from the showroom.
A tranny heater shouldn't void the warranty. It just gets the fluid to positive temps, not to operating temp.
Gene's also did an oilpan heater, battery blanket, and coolant to 60/40.
SHoppe715 Wrote:Gene's also did an oilpan heater, battery blanket, and coolant to 60/40.
I just spoke with them on the phone. They said something about moving a temp sencor under the engine. Any evidence of that you can find? They said it was to keep the engine light from coming on in cold weather. I'm going to do the coolent change, oil change and trany and oil pan heater when I get home. Not sure is a battery blanket is a good idea though. I've heard that can hurt a battery... Is it they type that wraps around of just a pad under it?
Genes Sucks. Jeeps are ment to be wheeled even if thats not what they are made for now-a-days. Down with DC!
I have a battery blanket that you can have if you want it.
I got two and only needed one, as I run Optima's in the others and you cannot use a blanket with them, just a pad.
just run an optima you don't need any pads or blankets for them.