Arctic Offroad Forums

SilverstoneXJ Wrote:.
My experience with Gene's and a lifted Jeep... not good. I once swung the old XJ by there to see if they had any idea what a certain noise was. When I got the service manager to walk outside, he saw the XJ across the parking lot and asked, "Is yours the lifted Cherokee?" I said yes. He replied, "That's your problem, it's lifted and has big tires". Without even getting close to it, he was already forming an opinion. A ride down the raod, and he said he still couldn't help me.

Every time we took the TJ there, we noticed the following at the bottom of every service paper... "Vehicle has modified suspension, and oversized tires". And this was just with 2" coil spacers and Rubi wheels and tires! Luckily, all we get are compliments from the jeep dealership here in Cheyenne. No hassles at all.

If you look out of state, let me recommend the dealership in Idaho. Dave Smith Motors. Known nationwide as having the best prices on vehicles. Bob (TnT) told me he got a quote through them, along with a plane ticket price to fly up, and the diesel cost back, and submitted it to our local dealership here for them to beat. They were higher, but matched it. Don't think any AK dealer would though. You were talking about a trip to Oregon... you could swing by there on the the way back up.

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I called Dave Smith... I bought a Dakota from them in 97. They couldn't match the price Lithia in Anchorage is quoting me. Do you know it the Lithia here in Fairbanks will do Jeep warranty work?

Doubtful. They have experienced Chevy/Caddy mechanics. Not Jeep. It's just the same monopoly name, not the same dealership.

Gary, what about when they wrecked your TJ during their "test drive"?

they will honor any warranty that their company sells, Lithia should sell the same warranties no matter which dealership....and they have to honor it.

I talked to them this morning. Fairbanks Lithia wont do it... I'd have to deal with Genes or go the Anchorage...

these car dealerships up here are sub standard.

sevenslats Wrote:Doubtful. They have experienced Chevy/Caddy mechanics. Not Jeep. It's just the same monopoly name, not the same dealership.

Gary, what about when they wrecked your TJ during their "test drive"?

Please don't imply that Gene's has any experienced Jeep techs. The floor manager really knows his stuff but all the others are halfwitted grease-monkeys that sometimes know which end of the wrench to turn.

sevenslats Wrote:Gary, what about when they wrecked your TJ during their "test drive"?

Ah yes... the swaybar incident. That was pleasant. Idiots! Disco'ed the swaybar at the frame, to pull the steering gear box out OVER the bumper (still can't figure that out) to replace it cause of a leaking seal. Finish the gearbox replacement, but forgot the swaybar is still disconnected at the frame points. Drive the TJ over a speed bump, and Wham! there goes both fenders (swaybar was still connected to the axle).

Give the Jeep back to us on a Friday night, without saying a word about it. Missy hears a popping sound while driving back to base. I slide under on a creeper to take a look, and whoa! both front edges of the fenders are smashed.

Monday am... go back, and see the service manager, and get the "How could that have happened? response. But it took no convincing to get it repaired. They knew.

They wanted Chaz... we pushed for Collision Masters. They didn't like the $1200 bill, but didn't have a choice.

I found out by another Jeep owner, on a different forum, exactly what happened, cause it happened to his TJ too. While he was argueing with the service manager who was saying it was impossible for the swaybar to do the damage, a loud bang happened followed by a tech yelling "Not again!" They walk over, and see the same thing on another TJ.

So, if you take a TJ in for any work done requiring the gear box being removed... make sure they remember to reconnect the swaybar before moving the Jeep. Or better yet, make them drop it out the bottom, which makes more sense.

I'll post up pics of the carnage soon.

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Sorry, it's mean, but I love to hear that story. I can just see Missy's face turning redder.

sevenslats Wrote:Sorry, it's mean, but I love to hear that story. I can just see Missy's face turning redder.

Yeah, it was a good thing we had the weekend to cool down before going back through their doors. Otherwise, it would have been ugly. It was our last time on their property... mainly cause we PCS'ed but probably would have had the same result if we had stayed.

I think I read that they changed ownership since then... any changes? Probably not, since it's the grease monkeys that were the morons.

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no changes, they are still ass clowns

Gene's is horrible for service everyone knows it. but they are the only DC dealer in the area. Which sucks. Luckily if something happens with the Cummins engine I can go to a cummins rep up here and still get warranty work done. But I say don't let the service stop you from buying a vehicle. Cause I know someone that owns a vehicle from every place up here and not one says they have had good experience.

I was always pleasantly surprised with Auto Service Company. I had a 92 Accord for the last 5 years up here before the Jeep and I also bought a 03 Taco doublecab TRD from them. That one got sold during the divorce. I've got no major complaints with those cats.

Sidenote - guess how much it cost for Chaz to replace the frame on that brand new Taco that still had the dealer plates, a few hundred miles, and hadn't had the first payment made on it after the now EXwife put it into the divider on Mitchell Expy?


Give up? $500. Oh, wait....that's what I paid....Geico forked over another $11,000.

I've never heard a completely good story containing the name Gene's. I sure don't have any. Get this... When I went to buy the Jeep, I knew exactly what I wanted. I saw one in the corner of the lot and went in to inquire. I stood there in the showroom for about 5 minutes without anyone acknowledging my presence. I went outside in the -40 January cold, got the ice scraper out of the Honda (which was idling with headlights on and aimed at the door) and went to work reading stickers until I found the exact one I wanted. I went back inside covered with frost, ice scraper in-hand, and got no attention for another 10 minutes. The first lady to say word 1 to me was Debbie the internet sales manager. She was just passing through on unrelated business and asked if I needed help. Guess who got the commisson on my sale. She even apologized for not being dressed formally enough to be working the floor as she borrowed another salesperson's desk.

Rubicon Locker by-pass mod...

From what I understand from the factory the lockers can only be engaged in low range and below 10 mph. I was wondering if that ment that they automaticly disengauge above 10 mph. If I do the switch mod to use them in hi-range I'd like to have them above 10 MPH. I love the detroit in the scrambler in teh winter and would like to use the Rubi the same way around town.

Highboy knows all about doing the Rubi locker bypass. His lockers work at any speed.

Just found this thread... Anyone else do this?

http://www.arcticoffroad.com/forum/showthread.php?t=346

Any of you Rubicon owners wheeld them hard? Just wondering how well the lockers perform. Are they true locker? Turm tehm on and hear a wheel chirp arond corners?

They're true lockers, the one in the rear is a limited slip when unlocked.

Yellow? Huh? Unlimited or Standard? You are getting the Offroad Package, right? Manual or Auto?

Solar Yellow Unlimited Rubicon with an auto...

AKCJ8 Wrote:Solar Yellow Unlimited Rubicon with an auto...

Very cool! :rockon:

AKCJ8 Wrote:Just found this thread... Anyone else do this?

http://www.arcticoffroad.com/forum/showthread.php?t=346

I did it. Love it. The lockers will not disengage until some really hi speed like 35 or 45. I've never tried it. They just won't engage above 10mph. The links on that thread showed a few different leads to jump to get different behavior. I went with the simplest. 1-4 I think. I'd have to go back and look. Mine engage in HI or LO but not above 10mph. I used a toggle switch from Ace hardware that had 2 wires attached and got a rubber switch cover. I tinned the ends of the wires, smashed them flat, and just slid them in behind the leads on the locker switch. I can remove the mod any time. Mine's a manual so there was an empty switch slot right next to the AXLE LOCK switch where the autos have an OD OFF switch (I think). That's where I put the toggle. I set it to push down to engage the bypass because you push the main locker switch down too.

I'll show you when you come for that test drive.

AKCJ8 Wrote:Just found this thread... Anyone else do this?

http://www.arcticoffroad.com/forum/showthread.php?t=346

My best friend did this. Works great. He had the six-speed and comparing the two, the six speed is setup so that you could easily run 35's without regearing. It's got a super slow crawl and was decent for everyday driving.

The auto I drove didn't seem to want to stay slow enough for my tastes, I had to ride the brakes hard to keep it slowed down in low. The auto also seemed to be perfect as far as gearing goes for the 31's that were on it from the factory. I wouldn't put 35's on it without regearing and you've heard about the regearing issues with these.


After driving both on the test ground Steve Christy Chrysler Jeep had, I wouldn't waste my time with the auto, plus with the dependability of Chrysler auto's, it won't last long if you use it. The 6-speed is made out of house and should hold up fine to aggressive off roading.

I know of a guy who's running 37's on his Rubicon Unlimited with stock gears in the axles and the six speed. He says yes he lost acceleration, but he can still hold 80 mph without flooring it in sixth gear. The 6-speeds are overgeared for the 31's as I mentioned earlier.

My favorite LJ on 37" Irok's with a 6" long arm and 1" body lift.



If I were to get one, it would eventually have to look like that.

Airmanwoody Wrote:you've heard about the regearing issues with these.

Enlighten me???

Airmanwoody Wrote:...you've heard about the regearing issues with these.

You can regear an auto???? I thought you were limited to changing t-case and axle gears with an auto.

I think he meant axle gearing.....manuals can handle 35's on the stock 4.10's, but the auto needs something deeper. And, the gears for the Rubi axles are different from the gears from regular D44's I guess.