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Full Version: WJ doesn't sound good....
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Have heard a noise once before I put the lift on but it was only there for a few moments. Now that the lift is on, it might be faint, but I can hear it all the time over 20 mph. I am not experienced with axles and stuff. Can do a bit of automotive but not that. Took the WJ to NP yesterday and it really didn't sound good. I don't think it is the drive lines, even without the drop kit I temporarily have on it. It only does it in acceleration and once in a while when coming to a full stop. Does anyone know what it could be? It is my DD, so I can't afford to have it go down. I still have a aftermarket warranty on the WJ, but would like to see if I can find out exactly what the problem is before I take it in and they try to tell me it's something else that isn't covered. Anybody help, PLEASE?:confused:

naturalbornmudder

is it the same npoise you heard when you brought it to my house?
Yes. At higher speeds though its worse. I also can't tell if its the tires, but it also sounds like its not shifting all the way up to OD. I did it manually and it shifted, but it doesn't feel like it (i.e. Engine sounds like its really working hard to move the rig almost like a brake was on at the same time.

Also, is there a way to check a fan clutch to see if it's going bad? Mine has a rattle to it that to me suggests a failure in the near future, but I'm not sure.

naturalbornmudder

Damien thought is was brakes to begin with. Perhaps doing a check of them to see if one is dragging or a caliper is seized or something.
Well its not the brakes. Did find out my clutch for the fan is going though. That will be fixed on Thursday hopefully. As for the noise during acceleration and at high speeds, still no clue. This problem is annoying. Also noticed my tires rub on the inside fender when in hard turns, now my white wall sides are already messed up.
Went to see Ziggy this morning for alignment. $93.00 later, steering wheel is straight again and his mech says my noise problem is deffinately the drvr axle shaft and possibly the pass one also.
what transfer case do the WJs have? it's full-time 4x4, right? If not, you could pull the front driveshaft, and that may tell you if the problem is in the front end or not.
Sure, the axleshafts will be spining while you're moving, but it my be something else inside there.
I wouldn't run with either driveshaft removed if it's a full-time 4x4.
With the NP247 case, you can run for a short time with the front removed, but don't do it for long.

With the 93-95 ZJ's you fry the Viscous Coupler (front shaft power transmitter) if you remove the front shaft. The 96-98's don't, but all ZJ's use a NP249 which is slightly different than the NP247. Lately, the guys at JF have posted a few issues with the NP247, and it failing. Luckily a NP242 from a 99-04 WJ with the 4.0L is pretty much a direct swap, and gives you a 2wd option in the case.

Good luck tracking this sucker down. It can be a pain.
Thanks for the input. Worst case, I'll be without a ride for at least a week. Have a warranty on it and it goes to the dealer tommorrow for it.

It is a all time 4x4. NP 247. I would love to be able to put the NP 242 in it. Why out of a 4.0 and not a V8 Woody?
Just got back from the dealer. Who woulda thought. I buy a vehicle from Lithia and I still get screwed by Gene's. They have to order parts from Gene's and they say can take up to three weeks just to get the parts in. Needs a new fan clutch and front drive line. They said they found it split on the T-case side and the bearings about gone.
They know the lift didn't cause the problem, but said that it is still putting some stress on the front shaft.

Have a temporary 1" drop kit on it right now. Should I drop it further and if so, how far? Eric is gonna do some brackets for me soon, but will probably be switching to a constant vilocity drive line later. (more than likely not til I can afford to put the new transfer case in though). I'm not an expert on this part, so what do you all think?