Arctic Offroad Forums

Ok, a lot of ya's have seen my rig in the pics from NXC. I'm wanting to add tow points, front and rear. What are the strongest that I can add with my tube bumper set-up. Like I said, 4x4ing is new to me... and I don't know much but D rings. Are they about as good as it gets and if so who wants to help me mount a pair???

I have two D Rings welder to my front bumper and one D Ring and a hook on the rear of my frame. I think the D rings work well. No problems yet. You should have some factory tow points on the frame of that exploder both front and rear, mine was a 94 and it did. :allrighty: I would have to see your under carrage to tell.

Those actually aren't tow points. They're securing points for trailer transport.

Gam, I would recommend the same thing though. For the front get some D rings welded on and for the rear , if you have a receiver for towing, you can get a tow receiver to use when off roading. There was a thread recently on the receiver tow point.

28this Wrote:Those actually aren't tow points. They're securing points for trailer transport.

:nope:

AK20 Wrote::nope:

I have a Class A CDL and pulled parking lots before that says that is what they were designed for and suppose to be used for. Not saying that others don't use them for other things.lol

28this Wrote:I have a Class A CDL and pulled parking lots before .

Wow, you want a cookie? I too have a CDL and have hauled plenty...but that doesn't have anything to do with the weather or not he has tow hooks or securing points.

AK20 Wrote:Wow, you want a cookie? I too have a CDL and have hauled plenty...but that doesn't have anything to do with the weather or not he has tow hooks or securing points.

Actually it does. Mike's post was reffering to these shipping points as tow points in his post, which technically they are not designed for things like recovery. that is why I posted with what I did, so Gamble new if he used these points for recovery, they're is a thing called safety invovled because they aren't suppose to be used that way. I've seen the same things on Mike's rig and if he didn't know, now he also knows along with anyone else that didn't know. Use them on your rig if you want, don't look to me when it screws your frame up. I'll just say told you so.

I'm entitled to my opinion on here just as you are, so don't try no pi$$ing matches with me. You don't agree with my opinion, fine. That's your opinion, but it doesn't give you the right to try and make me look like I don't know what I'm talking about. When it comes to things like recovery, I don't BS, because that's my safety too if I'm the one on the other end of the cable or strap and the tow point gives because of improper use.

Sorry if I crapped on your thread Gamble. My appologies.

no, it's all good, the more u 2 argue, the more I learn. lol

Here is what I wasa talking about being in a previous thread......
Receiver Shackles
Hi-quality, plated receiver shackle assembly fits std. trailer hitch receivers. Perfect for securing vehicle on trailer or doubling as a recovery anchor point.
69312, Receiver Shackle - $39.95

28this Wrote:Actually it does. Mike's post was reffering to these shipping points as tow points in his post, which technically they are not designed for things like recovery. that is why I posted with what I did, so Gamble new if he used these points for recovery, they're is a thing called safety invovled because they aren't suppose to be used that way. I've seen the same things on Mike's rig and if he didn't know, now he also knows along with anyone else that didn't know. Use them on your rig if you want, don't look to me when it screws your frame up. I'll just say told you so.

I'm entitled to my opinion on here just as you are, so don't try no pi$$ing matches with me. You don't agree with my opinion, fine. That's your opinion, but it doesn't give you the right to try and make me look like I don't know what I'm talking about. When it comes to things like recovery, I don't BS, because that's my safety too if I'm the one on the other end of the cable or strap and the tow point gives because of improper use.

I'm not trying to start any missing matches with anyone, if anything your the one getting all hot and bothered.

Maybe were thinking of different hooks, but when Ford Motor Company lists tow hooks as a feature, I'm pretty sure that's what they designed them for...if some trucker decides that's what he's going to use to tie down the truck with, that's fine, but it still doesn't change what it was made for. I also don't BS when it comes to recovery either, I've seen more weld on D-Rings break because somebody who thought they knew how to weld didn't burn them on correctly, then I have seen tow hooks break.

Apparently we are thinking of two different things. Tow hooks you speak of are on the front of vehicles. Don't really see them on the rear, especially from the factory. The points Mike mentioned that I am talking about are 1/8 in thick metal with about a 3/4 in hole in it for securing vehicles during transport. As for misunderstanding, I'll take the heat. The smiley you posted after my post suggests to me that you were saying I didn't know what I was talking about. We were just talking about different points apparently.

28this Wrote:Apparently we are thinking of two different things. Tow hooks you speak of are on the front of vehicles. Don't really see them on the rear, especially from the factory. The points Mike mentioned that I am talking about are 1/8 in thick metal with about a 3/4 in hole in it for securing vehicles during transport. As for misunderstanding, I'll take the heat. The smiley you posted after my post suggests to me that you were saying I didn't know what I was talking about. We were just talking about different points apparently.

Ahh, ok. Yes indeed we are thinking of two different styles, I totally agree with you then on the style your talking about, NOT a tow hook...those will break quicker than the flood walls in New Orleans:eek:

As for the smiley, it was not intended to say you don't know what your talking about, more of that I didn't agree. Again misunderstanding, my bad:allrighty:

Note: The ring on my bumper

LowNSlowNeon Wrote:Note: The ring on my bumper

Those are the same ones I have. NXC special! :allrighty:

LowNSlowNeon Wrote:Note: The ring on my bumper

Those are the same ones I have. NXC special! :allrighty:

28this Wrote:Here is what I wasa talking about being in a previous thread......
Receiver Shackles
Hi-quality, plated receiver shackle assembly fits std. trailer hitch receivers. Perfect for securing vehicle on trailer or doubling as a recovery anchor point.
69312, Receiver Shackle - $39.95

I almost bought one of those, but realized that I use my hitch pin for most of my rear recoveries and it does the same thing, but is $39.95 cheaper. They look nice, but I have yet to see one of these do what a hitch pin cannot.

I found them even cheaper then that. That is just a quick search for the pic.

Airmanwoody Wrote:I almost bought one of those, but realized that I use my hitch pin for most of my rear recoveries and it does the same thing, but is $39.95 cheaper. They look nice, but I have yet to see one of these do what a hitch pin cannot.

Not that is hasn't worked for you but that shouldn't be a recommended practice, sort of like tie down points. The pin isn't designed to hold that kind of a load across a 2" space and likely will bend of not break. Generally pulls in the rock of AZ aren't nearly as tough as being in 18" of mud stuck to the frame.

:2cents: I've got the reciever pin style and love it. It's easier to get the towstrap loop onto a shackle than sqeezing it into the reciever tube. A winch hook can grab it without damaging a thing. You also get an extra screw pin shackle that can be put to many other uses.

Of course, that type of tow point is only as strong as your hitch is rated. (Class II or III)

jeepin_al Wrote:Not that is hasn't worked for you but that shouldn't be a recommended practice, sort of like tie down points. The pin isn't designed to hold that kind of a load across a 2" space and likely will bend of not break. Generally pulls in the rock of AZ aren't nearly as tough as being in 18" of mud stuck to the frame.

Question for you then. If the pin is there to hold the reciever of a hitch, and the pin is rated for up to a 15K pull, how is that any different than putting the same pin in a shackle such as the one listed.

The pull force is the same, the strap when used with the pin is distributing the weight of the pull across the hole shaft of the pin. When used in a shackle assembly, (at least the ones I've seen) the insert is usually hollow, so that weight is being distributed across only two small points on either end of the pin.

Just using some of the good old Force calculations on this, but if science is true, then it's actually safer to use your hitch pin, over using a shackle in your reciever. The pin will get the same amount of force either way, but with the strap on the pin, the load is on a longer area of the pin.

If I am understanding correctly, I think Jeepin Al is saying this because when using a ball the weight force is at point a and b. (left and right side of the receiver where the pin comes in contact). From what you are saying Woody, if interperting right, with the strap, you have more of the weight force on the center of the pin point C and a little on A and B. (point C located between point a and b). Which in this case, there actually is more strain on the pin than what is when using the ball or even a receiver shackle. Again, this is theory. I don't know for sure. Clarifying how this strap is actually hooked to the pin mainly.

so..... basicly if I add some D-Rings and have a receiver shackle available also, I should be ready for most stucks. Now to see what holeski wants to add D-Rings front and rear. Thanks for the input guys. I now leave you to continue your hypothetical debate lol Actually enjoying reading this... good stuff.

I've used my hitch pin for bogged down pulls. Haven't bent one yet. But yes, it is harder to mash the strap into a 2" receiver tube than it is to unscrew a D-ring shackle and loop it through the strap.

There's some good tech in this thread!

ok, maybe I was a little too brief in my answer. The reciever hitch is 2" wide and the space between the snatch block and wall of the reciever hitch is only hundredths of an inch (ok, maybe a bit more but bear with me). The load is held with the 5/8" of steel but with very little leverage. Now with a strap in the middle there is really no telling if you really push the strap where the most force is, but eventually if you push it the pin will bend and that bend is going to go to the middle giving 1" of leverage. Might not sound like much, but if you compare it to the less then 1/16" originally planned it is a whole bunch and a design for disaster. I have no personal proof of this but I have bent 3/4" tow hooks pulling vehicles out of the mud.

I actually have a D ring that fits through the reciever hitch pin holes and swings out over the end of the receiver. It works really well, we used it to winch the Dodge out on 9 April.

As far as the "Tie Downs" on the Montero go, I'll use them till one breaks off, then I'll go to Holeproof and get something fabbed. :allrighty: