its not my starter.
Well I replaced my Dizzy today and still nothing. Wayne is coming over in the morning and we are going to take it to 5 star for a diagnosis. I hope they can find whats wrong...
Hey have you tried looking this up on the 3FE list?
http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/3FE/
It's a pretty extensive list, you might have some luck if you have some time. I think I'll procrastinate a bit here and see what I can find as well.
Quote: Stop right there. If you're not getting spark is your CE light on when key
is in ON position? You can also check the B+ terminal in the check
connector.
Quote: Well, it tells me that the EFI system is hot and should be functioning(If the check engine light is on). Next thing to check is B+ on the igniter (black wire/green stripe). B+ on the igniter comes from the battery through one of the fusible links and through the ignition switch.
Dunno if you've checked this, and I should get back to studying for finals now :whistle:
Should the B+ terminal be 12V when the key is turned on?? if so I just found my problem
Quote: Diagnostic Procedure for EFI Related Woe and Strife
The EFI circuit feeds +12 to the ECU, all 3 VSV valves, both O2 sensors, the ISC valve, and the load side of the circuit opening relay which feeds the fuel pump when the motor is running.
1. Motor not running; key in ON position; CEL should be on.
2. Check for +12 VDC on brass terminal screw in under hood fuse box. This terminal is located directly to the left of the main fuse and is a Phillips screw head. http://mysite.verizon.net/jonheld/im...BA/Fusebox.jpg
3. If no +12 VDC in fuse box, then check fusible links off positive battery terminal. http://mysite.verizon.net/jonheld/im...y/PosTerm1.jpg. While the one in the picture is not stock, the links are going to the stock locations. 2 to the black plastic junction box and one to the connector.
4. If +12 VDC in fuse box and no CEL, then suspect EFI relay/fuse and associated wiring and contacts. Many have said that the wire from the EFI fuse to the EFI relay is undersized and is the root cause of all these problems. I disagree with this. At idle I measured less than 1 amp across the load side of the EFI relay contacts. I believe the cause of the problems is related to the heat of the manifold combined with poor crimps on the connectors in the fuse box. Over time these connectors can become corroded and cause problems.
5. Check for +12 on pin 8 (B+) on the CHECK CONNECTOR mounted on the right side of the fire wall. If +12 on pin 8 and still no CEL, then EFI circuit OK and problem is with ECU or associated harness.
Stole it from mud, from the user jonheld. Sounds like a fusible link problem? And I should really stop procrastinating homework doesn't do itself haha.
if you go on mud I'm akfj62 and I have a post ignition problems
fusible link is like an inline fuse I believe, there to break and save other components. You can probably bypass it and be fine, I think I read wayne did this on his toy pickup? Have you checked the voltages around the fusible links? I think there should be one inline going to your ignitor that is probably the problem? I would just replace it as it seems to be a fairly cheap part, although I can see where you would be tired of replacing parts.
Posting this here because I don't think as many people on mud will be as knowledgeable about this and I might need some correcting.
I recieved a new computer today and droped it of at the shop. they narrowed it down to a bad computer. I'll keep you posted.
well the truck runs and yes it was the CPU. but it is still doing what it was before it completely stoped running. so now its to the MAF. I'm geting one sent to me and maybe it will run in a few days.
Its running but with the check engine light on. I recieved the MAF today and that should be it. I probably will be picking it up in the next few day's.
any one want an 88 FJ62 cheep?