Ok when we got back from the trip to Fairbanks my FJ started acting up.
we washed her down to get all the ice off and now it won't stay running.
it Idols fine but once you apply preshor to the accelorator it dies what do you think this is. I bought an OBD 1 to see what code it would read but there are none stored. the intack was completely clean. I checked the plugs wires and cap for water and cleaned all that off. but still running the same. please help me
hate to say it man but it sounds like **** new fuel pump quit ..
its a new fuel pump and filter.
i know it is but i think it quit ..ive had new starters and alternators weak when new or flat not work no reason why we shouldnt check it out ? i have a fuel pressure gauge here .. just need to find out what the specs are
ok we can also look at the elctical conection that runs the pump. it also was replaced when it was fixed
I'm going to pull the filter and run a strait line and see if the filter is cloged also
take the filter and some clean paper towels and blow out the filter onto it see what comes out remember it was a new Used tank ..could had crap in it ..
thats what I was thinking. but why would it idol perfect if it was cloged?
because at idle your not flowing alot of fuel , turn up the rpms and it starves out like running out of gas like its doing now .. we might have sucked crap stuff in before we blocked of the tank
yea but it ran two full days after that. could it be something wit my air delivary system? it runs my fuel injectors it could have filled with ice
but takes a while to build up in the fuel filter with crap we only drove like 30 miles in 2 days .. rest was on my trailer lol
this is from some one on Ih8mud
You need spark, air and
fuel, and in the 62, you need the computer to know what's going on with those 3 things. You know you have spark, you know you have fuel (to an extent, maybe not enough supply at throttle), the comp. could be out to lunch on what's going on with throttle and air once they come off the idle baseline. First things that pop into my mind are water in the fuel (dump in some heat or other gas line antifreeze), the fuel filter could use a changing, check your throttle position sensor, air flow meter and the connections for them.
well we did the heat , we know we are getting good clean air and spark that leaves fuel issues ..ie filter ,pump or water in fuel .. i would keep it simple and remove the filter and see what comes out ...
yep thats what I'm going to do. also im going to check the throttle position sensor, air flow meter and the connections for them.
Start runs no load:
Moisture in the Dist cap. Use WD-40 and clean the cap with it.
Fuel Pressure/volume.
load sensor (MAF sensor). On most vehicles, you can remove the connector to the MAF and it will usually die, but restart and run poorly. If it doesn't stall upon higher rpm, then the MAF is suspect. Check the output (signal) voltage for a nice steady increase as load (not preportionate to the rpm but to load) increases.
In that order, no discussion.
Then, pull one wire. Idle vehicle with a spark checker on that wire. As you accelerate the engine, does the spark stop? If it doesn't your on to fuel control issues (PCM and sensors)
The TPS is an anticipator for the fuel system, it can cause a bog, but can rarely causes a stall unless the vehicle is driving (VSS sensor is reading more than 1 mph), not where I would go first, pretty much it's load sensor timing sensor(s) or fuel delivery.
thanks Kelly I'm going to check the dist cap again then work my way down the list. I have on order the survise manual for the FJ62 so hopfully I'll be able to find my problem
Justin, what year is that t(u)rd?
88-90 w/ the 3FE if it's an FJ62
33 to 37 PSI Fuel pressure. That's a reading taken WHEN the problem occurs, not when it is idling nicely. :nerd:
Well worked on it alittle today and found out the Alternator isn't working. its pushing .12v to the bat. so I'm going to pull the alternator tomarrow and see if thats whats wrong. I'mhoping maybee I'm getting a bad ground to it.
ok know I changed the alternator because it was bad and now I have no spark. can anyone say chevy 350 conversion !).
brand new coil. and I tested the coil and its working fine. I'm not getting spark to the plugs. and everything is new exept the Distributor. and they are 400 to 500 dollars. and knowone has the internals.
So if I read this right- you have spark coming from the coil but not to the plugs? It can then only be cap,rotor wires or plugs. If you have no spark on more than one cylinder than it should only be the cap (unlikely) or the rotor. Perhaps the rotor is bad and is shorting through to the distributor shaft, or perhaps I don't understand what you are saying.
2T2 Wrote:brand new coil. and I tested the coil and its working fine. I'm not getting spark to the plugs. and everything is new exept the Distributor. and they are 400 to 500 dollars. and knowone has the internals.
the toyota dealer does but you definitely have to order; I replaced my cap, rotor, and wires a year or two ago. there is a specialty toyota place off van horn(it's either on industrial or international) that might have something in town if that's what you mean; if you didn't already check that is. if you need some parts to test yours just let me know.