Arctic Offroad Forums

I know this is opening up a can of worms. Everyone has their opinion of what they like best. I would like to hear pro's and con's of going short, medium, or long. As everyone knows, I am getting a small collection of Chevy/GMC trucks. I am planning on building a totally dedicated wheeler that is still street legal (not only legal, but handles decently also). I want to be able to drive to the trail, may be here locally or a trip down towards Anchorage. Trails will be the trails we all run as a club. Truck will have 38.5" to 42" tires. I want to make a decision before I put too much time and money into my current wheeler.

First off I will throw out some numbers.
Jeep TJ 93.4" wheelbase, 154.9 overall length (LWB version: 103.4" WB, 171" OAL)
Blazer 106.5" wheelbase, 184.8 overall length
SWB Truck 117.5" wheelbase, 191.3" overall length
LWB Truck 131.5" wheelbase, 212" overall length

I currently wheel a LWB truck, but feel I have some difficulty going over some obstacles because I get high centered with the long wheelbase. I currently wheel 33" tires, but have some 38.5" so this might help. I haven't had any problems on the trail because of length, but turning around could be difficult. The lower loop at Banner required a 3 point turn on one corner, but I think a lot of vehicles had to also.

I currently drive a SWB truck, but haven't wheeled it yet because I lack tow points and traction aids. The truck seems "bouncy" going down the road. I may have to experiment with shocks, but my LWB truck rides better down the road. I don't know how much of my ride could be related to the short wheelbase or the lift. I've also hear a lot of rock crawlers saying that 120" is the ideal wheelbase. The SWB truck is just under 120".

I am tempted to try a Blazer because it's shorter than the SWB, but don't want to sacrifice too much ride. Blazer vs. SWB truck is 11" shorter, this would be beneficial going over obstacles. What could the downside be of this though?

I currently have 3 LWB trucks, 1 LWB crew cab, 1 SWB truck, and 1 LWB 1-ton frame. I trying to decide:
1.) Go ahead and wheel my LWB CUCV.
2.) Buy a Blazer (I have lots of goodies I can use to build it)
3.) Cut my 1-ton LWB frame down to Blazer WB length and make a truggy out of it.
4.) Cut my LWB crew-cab frame down to SWB regular cab wheelbase and make a truggy out of it.
5.) All of the above :p
I'm sure I have enough parts to build two decent rigs, but don't have the free time to maintain two; plus I can only drive one rig at a time.

FWIW, I'm going to go minimal on the suspension lift to clear 42" tires and keep a low center of gravity. Plenty of fender trimming going on here. I'm probaby also going to bob and narrow the truck in both the front and rear.

Option # 3 - that would be cool.

Or option # build your SWB truck.

I like the blazer's wheelbase but at times it struggled while SWB truck didn't have near the difficulty and LWB trucks cruised right over the spot. There are advantages to all sides and the SWB truck seems to be right in the middle.

i like to have a long wheelbase with little to no overhang ... so you can still wrap around a rock or tree without body damage .. on long steep hill climbs up or down lwb is the way to go .. and if your long your fairly wide as well..

i used to pucker watching dave and mike go up lion's back in their Sammy's ..felt like it was on 2 wheels .

I read several posts on Pirate about this topic and it seems like the magic number that everyone likes is 106in I currently run 101in on my jeep with 38inch tires and haven't had allot of issues with high centering, I am going to stretch my front axle forward 2 inches to get the tire out of the tub at flex. I have great turning radius when it 2 wheel drive but it sux when in 4x4 because of the spool in front.

I don't do it by numbers, just compare by the different rigs I have tried to wheel. A K-5's wheelbase is almost perfect for the way I wheel, and that's all that matters. The ZJ was pretty decent, but the YJ was too short for me.

I probably should go for a ride in a Blazer. It's been something like 15 years since I've been in one. I don't think I've ever rode in a Jeep. I might have to test drive a Rubicon.

Unless I buy a Blazer, I'm going to cut a 1-ton frame to shorten the wheelbase. My reasoning is that the 1-ton frame is nearly 2" taller than the 1/2 and 3/4 ton frames and I'd get less frame flex. I'd much rather flex the suspension than the frame. The taller frame is probably why I can fit 33" tires on my CUCV without any suspension lift, I never realized that before.

I don't know, seeing some larger vehicles on the RTI ramp, the one ton crew cabs get far more frame flex and get better numbers than expected because of it. Realize that you'd have to shorten the frame between the cab and the wheel hump of the frame, as otherwise you'd rub during flex. So then you'd have to cut and weld/support the frame. Doable, but quite a task.

Theone ton crew cabs are flexing alot more due to the length. With you shortening the fram it will take that part of the equation out. I say shorten the 1 ton frame.

akram Wrote:The one ton crew cabs are flexing alot more due to the length. With you shortening the frame it will take that part of the equation out. I say shorten the 1 ton frame.

What he said!

(except with the spelling corrected!) :whistle:

buy a jeep

ARCTIC_EXPRESS Wrote:buy a jeep

Because that has worked so well for you! :whistle:

Ouch :fishslap::poke::hide:

guess I should've put a ...

ANTIFREEZE , not water need i say more :tease::nono:lap:

:poke::poke::poke: Okay then get a sammi , what ya got to say to that mr.smartypants ???

Ok, to get us back on topic :troutslap: what is the wheelbase of the Sami???

about this long (holds arms out)

I have thought about shortening my frame in the past but have come to the conclusion that it really isn't necessary. Since I've had my truck the tire size has grown but even with the 31's I originally ran(came with the truck) I only ever drug the frame once that I can remember. Never got high centered and I've crawled over a lot of tall berms and ledges. With 38's , a 4" lift, and a 133" wheelbase I have yet to have a clearance issue due to wheel base. Ground to axle clearance and rear over hang have been my only concerns. But that's why I won't go smaller than 38's. I have wanted to do a bed bob, but the rear leafs would have to go to make it enough to be worth while. May happen with my rebuild. Haven't decided yet.
As far as the turning radius goes I know I won't out maneuver a jeep in tight places but I can live with an occasional three point turn. I have noticed the longer wheelbase is actually an advantage with many of the trail obstacles I've encountered.
Just my $.02

the zuki is i think 98" wheel base and 72" inches wide

You can't have it all.
Plain and simple. you're gonn have to sacrifice somewjere. And seeing that you have a 1-ton and a trailer, I'd sacrifice the on-road manners. I'm not saying remove the body and wear a poncho/parka, but don't concentrate on the street handling so much. go more for low-height, flexy suspension, and hydro steering. If you still want to register/insure it, your call.
IMO, the ideal trail wheelbase is about 105-115. for all the same reasons already posted. turning/high-centering/hill climbs/smooth ride...
I love to drool over buggies, but I think you have the parts/skills/time to build a full-bodied rig. Even if its a blazer with a half-top.
EDIT: Personally, I couldn't sleep if I cut up/modded a CUCV. They're just so close to perfect with stock drivetrain/suspension. trim, add 36s on beadlocks, and drive!

I'm leaning my build towards something that could participate in the Ultimate Adventure. Not saying that my truck would actually get picked, but one can hope. Their requirements is that you have to drive your vehicle from trail to trail, no trailering.

I'm not leaning towards cutting up my CUCV, although it is not as clean as it looks. FWIW, I did pick up a second CUCV that has a damaged cab and various other body panels. This could be my donor: 1 ton frame, Dana 60 (would need ARB), 14 BFF with Detriot locker already installed. Combined with either the 6.2 diesel out of my crewcab, either a TH400 or SM465 in front of a doubled t-case (203/205), I'll pretty much be set. I have everything except the t-case double and ARB. I have the 38.5" XML's right now, but would like some 42" IROKs in the future.

Right now I'm leaning towards a SWB length of ~117" to 120". When it warms up, I'm planning on going and measuring the crew cab frame. It would be awesome if I could cut this down the wheelbase I'm looking for. The added cab space would be nice. I only need room to carry a spare and mount a fuel cell behind the cab, so the "bed" can be super short. With the narrowed fenders, I'm thinking about fenders that can attach with 1/4 turn fastners and store in the "bed" area when on the trail. That way I'm still road legal.

After the solistice run I've made up my mind to build a crew cab. Even with only two people in the cab of my regular cab truck, space was limited. It's nice to carry your cold weather gear inside out of the elements. The crew cab rear seats will be great for gear/storage, even if I don't carry extra passengers.

My Off-Road Design zero-rate add-a-leaf blocks showed up today. I think I'm going to install my lift and 38.5" tires on my CUCV and wheel it until I get my crew cab built.

Crew cab truggy!

i hadnt seen this post before
but i think the crew cab was the way to go.
it'd be fun with a blazer but how many people are really girly enough to drive one of those:tease::troutslap:

Big words from a guy who hasn't really wheeled his truck yet.