Eric snapped the output shaft off of his D300 on EIO's New years run. Looks like it is time for another upgrade.
Here are the tires he's been running recently.
[img width=640 height=428]http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y190/sbschaefer/New%20Years%202006/NewYears2006005.jpg[/img]
[img width=640 height=428]http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y190/sbschaefer/New%20Years%202006/NewYears2006062.jpg[/img]
[img width=640 height=428]http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y190/sbschaefer/New%20Years%202006/NewYears2006069.jpg[/img]
I took all the guts from my Dana 300 when I did my flip kit and 4:1 low gears. I gave all the left over (stock) parts to Mousee. I'm sure he still has them, just shoot him a PM to find out.
Eric is going with the 4:1 and 32 spline upgrade. He has his D300 mated to an NP203 as well. I guess he will have more gear selections than he knows what to do with. What do you think the next week link will be?
Hey Dusty, you still owe me the specs on those terras. You said on PBB they were 17s?
Front or rear output?
Sounds like his weak links with be the u-joints in the driveshafts, seeing as how I don't think he'll break an axle anytime soon...
AlaskaToy Wrote:Hey Dusty, you still owe me the specs on those terras. You said on PBB they were 17s?
Front or rear output?
Sorry I never got back with you. I spaced it. Those tires are pretty sick looking on a Jeep compared to some of the fullsize moose buggies I have seen. They seem to work great.
His rear output broke off clean and suprizingly the rear driveshaft came out unscathed. I guess it would be a testament to the Tom Woods driveshaft and offset trunion 1350 U-Joints. Here is Eric's Quote from his post on AK4x4Net.com
Quote:21.5L-16.1 Didn't take actual measurements, but they do make the 39.5x18 Boggers look like 31" a/t's
Guess I was wrong on the rim size. Hope that helps.
.
crazy4ink Wrote:Sounds like his weak links with be the u-joints in the driveshafts, seeing as how I don't think he'll break an axle anytime soon...
I think your right about the rear driveshaft due to the extreme angle but I wouldn.t be suprized if he extends the wheelbase another inch or two back to help cure that. He has talked about possibly trying a rear four link type set up in the future. I think it would help the angle if he set it up sorta like Frank (1TonCJ) on the AK4x4net.com site.
Alaskatoy- I checked Goodyear's website for actual measurements on the tires. They said 43.6 tall & 21.9 wide. They're on tractor wheels (unknown origin) with 8 lug blanks welded in.
Here's the rear Tom Woods driveshaft, Superjoint & rear t-case output sitting in the garage.
[img width=1000 height=750]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v228/eberg/bssss.jpg[/img]
[img width=1000 height=750]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v228/eberg/bsssssssss.jpg[/img]
Here's the rear of the t-case.
[img width=768 height=1024]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v228/eberg/bsss.jpg[/img]
:o
Even though I've stretched the wheelbase by 5 inches, the doubler shortened it up enough to make for a gawd aweful angle at the rear output. The TW Superjoint has made it liveable up until now, and I was already planning on the 4-1 gears & 32 spline outputs for the t-case this winter, but I think I really need to plan for moving the rear axle back some more soon to alleviate this. Not sure yet whether I'll go 4 link, or extend the frame and go with longer springs, although I'm leaning towards the latter.
Thanks for info on the tires.Â
What is the diameter of the output shaft on the 300?Â
Are running a dana rear axle or a 14 bolt? I ask because I believe the 14-bolt has a shorter distance pinion yoke to axle centerline than the dana axles. Could be a way to improve DS angle in the future. I found the 14 bolt to be about equal in pinion length to my Toy 8" third. Another intersting find is the 14 bolt pinion is closer to the center of the axle housing, WMS-WMS, than the yota rear axle it replaced. May be the same deal with dana axles. I don't know.
Finally, What gears are you running in the diffs? (my whole 14 bolt diatribe above is moot if you are already at 5.13 or lower.) Just stating the obvious, but the more gear reduction you have in the diffs, the less stress the t-case output will see.
Love the Jeep. Those tires are just right!
He is running a rear 14 bolt with 4.56's.
Eric's Quote from AK4x4NET
Quote:Umm, let's see, the rear shaft used to be 26". I moved the 14 bolt rearward 2.5", and the new rear shaft is 18.5", so the new configuration consisting of a TBI350/TH350/NP203/D300 is about 10" longer than the factory junk, which consisted of the 258/999/D300. The angle at the t-case output is pretty severe. About 27 degrees at rest. After much discussion with Tom Woods, he recommended going with their new "Super-Flex" u-joint in the forward end of the rear shaft. He said that the super flex joint would offer a much higher angle of operation than a CV, and would hold up alot longer. I must admit that I was a bit skeptical, but trusted his judgement. I'm not dissapointed. He told me that the drawback to the super flex joint is that I may experience vibration due to the characteristics of it's offset design.
Here is a pic of the D300/NP203 combo
[img width=640 height=480]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v228/eberg/Doubler-2.jpg[/img]
Here is a picture of the rear driveshaft sitting on level ground. Very extreme.
[img width=640 height=480]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v228/eberg/DSC00002.jpg[/img]
[img width=640 height=480]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v228/eberg/DSC00001.jpg[/img]
I think lengthening the wheelbase a couple inches would be the best way to deal with it.
This is the first issues he has had with it but the Jeep did sit most of the summer. If it was mine I would go give a four link a shot and push the rear back another 4-6 inches