Arctic Offroad Forums

I'm going to order the lift kit for my 1987 1/2 ton Chevy. Definately going with at least 35", but some 36"-37" tires also look promising. I originally only wanted 6" of lift, but the bigger tires keep catching my eye. Only will be 12.5" to 13.5" wide tires.

I'm going to order a Superlift kit complete with rear springs. Their website says the 6" kit will work with 35"x12.5" tires and the 8" kit will work with 37"x12.5" tires.

I don't want a body lift and really don't want to cut the sheet metal. Should I just plan on going with the 8" to be safe?

Or will 36"-37" tires work with 6" of lift?

How would 35" tires look with 8" of lift? I'm guessing dorky.

I'd like to order the kit tomorrow and get it on it's way for install on the 18th.

How about shocks that come with the Superlift kits? They any good?

35's you'll need 6" to clear with no cutting, 37's would be pushing a 6" lift with no cutting and not rubbing, an 8" lift might be in order for those. I ran 36's with 4" of lift but cut a small amount on the firewall side of the front fenders. Right now I'm running 18x39.5's on 8" of lift, but lots of cutting happened. I suggest you just get to cutting, if you do it right and take your time you can't even tell. Otherwise your going to need to get a lift that won't look very proportional, tire size vs. lift height, IMO. 37x12.50 will look goofy on 8", but would fit on a 6" with a little massaging, so in short that would be pick...6" lift, 37's. Also the shocks that most lift kits come with do fine for fullsize trucks, nothing to fancy but worth the money.

Looking at Superlift's website to see what kits to order and noticed:

6"&8" systems:
"1977½-91 models require clearancing (machining) of the front driveshaft CV cluster to prevent binding. If vehicle has single exhaust, the cross-over pipe requires modification to clear front driveshaft."
How involved is this? I suppose it actually has to be machined rather than just using a hand grinder to eliminate/minimize vibration.

8" systems:
"Both driveshafts need to be lengthened."
Any ideas how much this may cost?

Twin_Kings Wrote:Looking at Superlift's website to see what kits to order and noticed:

6"&8" systems:
"1977½-91 models require clearancing (machining) of the front driveshaft CV cluster to prevent binding. If vehicle has single exhaust, the cross-over pipe requires modification to clear front driveshaft."
How involved is this? I suppose it actually has to be machined rather than just using a hand grinder to eliminate/minimize vibration.

First off, what tranny/tcase are you running, as this will play a major roll in what mods to the driveshaft you'll have to do. Second, if you need to clearance the driveshaft it's not that involved and can be done with an angle grinder...you just need to trim back the CV side a little to let the joint turn at a greater angle...no biggie really.

Twin_Kings Wrote:8" systems:
"Both driveshafts need to be lengthened."
Any ideas how much this may cost?

This might be true with both the 6 or 8 inch lifts, worst case to have your driveshafts re-tubed your looking at a couple hundred bucks for both.

Side note, I know you sound dead-set on Superlift...but I'll throw this out there. I have ran two different BDS lifts for 73-87 chevy's, best hands down kit for the money you can get IMO...also has the best warranty in the business(compare between the companies on this for proof). These kits can be bought in town for the Performance Shop, yes lots of people will bad mouth the guy...and yes he is weirdo and I wouldn't buy anything else besides BDS products from him. Anyway, he has all the parts for 4, 6, or 8 inch lifts for your truck, in stock. If you look at his prices they are the same or a little cheaper than if you bought a comparable lift and payed shipping.

AK20 Wrote:First off, what tranny/tcase are you running

700R4/208

AK20 Wrote:and yes he is weirdo

LOL

Checked out the BDS systems. I hadn't thought of them before. Their stuff looks pretty well thought out.

I like the transfer case drop that comes with their kits. I don't think Superlift comes with this. They even offer shocks for the OE front dual shock that my truck has.

Maybe I'll think this over the weekend and not do anything until Monday. Please keep the suggestions coming, and thanks for putting up with all my questions. My last trail rig only had 32"s and a rear locker, so this is quite a step up for me now.

No problem, smart thing to think it all out first before committing to anything.

Also as far as your tranny/tcase, I don't think your going to have much issues with this combo and front driveline angle...depending on what lift you go with (6 or 8) you still will probably have to have your driveshafts lengthened.

How do I say this the best????


What AK20 said!

He is right on. A t-case drop kit will help with the binding issue some of the driveshafts, definately a plus and I was gonna mention it but you did first.

Young's is the only place in town that can lengthen and balance your driveshafts. They tend to be very pricy. Ask first. However.... Before you just go with them, check a few websites out for high angle drivelines - they may be very similar in price to what you'll pay young's and they're designed better.

Jesse at "High Angle Driveline" used to post up on here occasionally.
And there are other companies that I can't currently think of right now that build similar items.

I think you could squeeze 37's on 6" lift - like AK20 mentioned - minor trimming may be required. 8" lift I ran 38.5's and now 39.5's but I also trimmed quite a bit.

Anbother note: Think about a trans upgrade. I know that isn't what you wanted to hear - but I burned up a 700R4 in very short time with 38.5's. IN stock form they simply aren't made to handle that much weight. If you plan on keeping it for a long time and want to run 37's, get as big of an extra trans cooler you can, and don't use the overdrive. You can get these built up to be tougher, but in stock form they simply don't handle excess weght and larger tires.

That being said, what gears are you running in the axles? What axles are you running, and do you ever plan on locking either front or rear?

Had I had 4.56 in the axles the 700 might have lasted longer - but I doubt it would have been too much longer. 4.10's are minimal I would run with 37's. 3.73's would work for 35's, but I'd again recommend 4.10's. If lower, it will seem like a dog on performance, and your trans will hate you.

Also, if you lock axles and they are 10 or 12 bolts with 37's you will most likely break them eventually. I had no trouble with 10 bolts and 35's. Added 38's and they did ok until I locked 'em - then my second trip out I blew the front 10 bolt into pieces!

All this "advice" and or "opinions" come from experience. I'm not saying you can't do something different than me, but in my experience, some things work, and a lot of things don't.

This is great. I was able to talk it out before spending money on the wrong things.

Originally I was limiting it to 35's because of the 10 bolt diffs, 700R4, and NP208. I got looking at all the tires and starting thinking bigger was better, but not the case for this build. I was thinking locked/spooled rear and locked front. Really thinking about ARB air lockers because this will be driven on the street quite a bit. It's stock with 3.07 gears, but will gear lower depending upon final tire size. Like Kevin said, 3.73 would probably work, but 4.10 would be better. I like low gears, my old F-350 used to be 4.30 behind a V10 with stock tires. Now I'm 90% certain to go with 6" lift and 35" tires on the 1/2 ton.

I am also looking at a more serious build for off-road use. I now have a 1975 K20 with a 327/TH350/NP203. There is a 1985 C20 I want to buy. I'll take the body and transplant the 454/TH400 onto the 1976 4x4 frame. May have to stay with the NP203 for now, but will probably replace with a NP205. Thinking 39" tires for on/off road and maybe some 45" tractor tires for serous offroading. This truck will have 10" of lift and cut fenders. I'll run the D44 front until it dies, then upgrade to D60. The 14 bolt FF rear should be fine.

Twin_Kings Wrote:This is great. I was able to talk it out before spending money on the wrong things.

Originally I was limiting it to 35's because of the 10 bolt diffs, 700R4, and NP208. I got looking at all the tires and starting thinking bigger was better, but not the case for this build. I was thinking locked/spooled rear and locked front. Really thinking about ARB air lockers because this will be driven on the street quite a bit. It's stock with 3.07 gears, but will gear lower depending upon final tire size. Like Kevin said, 3.73 would probably work, but 4.10 would be better. I like low gears, my old F-350 used to be 4.30 behind a V10 with stock tires. Now I'm 90% certain to go with 6" lift and 35" tires on the 1/2 ton.

Sounds like a good plan! The only caution I have for you on the ARB's is that most people I know who run these up here eventually have air line problems. The cold just effects them. Not that they are completely unreliable or bad, but be aware. I also would suggest the heavier air line - you could get more info from Ronster - he is a vender for these and just installed a front ARB with the heavier line.

Twin_Kings Wrote:I am also looking at a more serious build for off-road use. I now have a 1975 K20 with a 327/TH350/NP203. There is a 1985 C20 I want to buy. I'll take the body and transplant the 454/TH400 onto the 1976 4x4 frame. May have to stay with the NP203 for now, but will probably replace with a NP205. Thinking 39" tires for on/off road and maybe some 45" tractor tires for serous offroading. This truck will have 10" of lift and cut fenders. I'll run the D44 front until it dies, then upgrade to D60. The 14 bolt FF rear should be fine.

I know where a 205 that bolts to a 350 is...

If sticking with the 39's, don't go 10 inches of lift. Go 8 and cut - or 6 and truggy (narrow front and rear fenders) this keeps your center of gravity lower.

If by "serious offroading" you mean simply mud bogging through flats, 10 inches of lift and 45 tractor tires would work great!

However - take that same vehicle up 55 Mile trail or Rainbow mountain area and you'll be regretting your high center of gravity - any off-camber situation would be a serious pucker factor with that much lift and thinner tractor tires and flopping would be inevitable.

for example

ChevyKev Wrote:If by "serious offroading" you mean simply mud bogging through flats, 10 inches of lift and 45 tractor tires would work great!

Yeah, just something to play in the mud with. I'm not sure you'd call it a terra or tractor type tire. Thinking about the American Farmer Tire in a 18.4 x 16.2 (44.8" tall)

All you ever wanted to know about tractor tires in AK:
http://www.alaska4x4network.com/showthre...actor+tire