Arctic Offroad Forums

I have rear brakes again(Thanks Kelly!), new rear axle seals, but the pinion seal started leaking again(maybe), I wiped off what was on the diff and I'll look again today to see if there's any more. My vent tube didn't work...I need to use a more flexible tube next time...I'll probably do that this weekend, or monday.

ChevyKev Wrote:83 Jeep Cherokee - needs sold. $1200 OBO
Needs either front swaybar installed (have it - not installed), steering stabalizer replaced and/or ball joints - or some combination thereof - as it has some death wobble around 45mph.

Kev, remind me to bring my spare stabilizer over. It's a Rancho that's barely a year old. Works good, but when I put a new pin in mine, I put a new one on.

Well, went over and gave Kev a hand thowing the 6.2L back together in the six-pack. It turned over this time after a slight shot of smoke from the oil dipstick tube touching a glow plug. (Look it's a mini-welder) It is not running, but is turning over. The injectors need primed, so I guess that's the tomorrow afternoon or Monday project.

Well now that I can post in various forums, I'll update my status.... I won 2 ebay auctions, one for 2 front heavy duty halfshafts, and another auction for one heavy duty rear halfshaft. Whenever they get here, I will install the rear and have a few spares. The best part is it will only take 15-20 minutes to swap out and won't require fishing broken pieces out.

Mods so far are detroit rear locker, 2 inch body lift and 42 IROKS. In the spring or summer I hope to put in a front electric locker and maybe an onboard air system for running air tools on the trail. I already have the CTIS compressor and have a small tank, but I need to mount the tank and plumb it. I also want to regear the TH-400 with a 2.75 first to gain back some of the lost gearing by going to 42's, I love the overdrive effect of 42's though.. cuts way down on the noise at 60. Longer term plans include custom suspension so that it will actually be able to flex, and a diet plan, one guy on the Hummer mailing list stripped his Hummer until it weighed 5800 pounds, so it can be done..And while I'm really dreaming... rear steer someday

Here are a few pics of a Hummer flexing..... I know... it's amazing!!!

That's definately more flex than you got the other day.

Cannot wait to see how it turns out.


So what if you can change your half shafts quickly without fishing out pieces. :lol:

Well I certainly won't be flexing that much or with that particular suspension kit.... it was only offered for a few years by a company called Off Road America, they are now out of business. They used to charge like 15 grand for that kit..... way outta my ballpark. What I was thinking was to remove the swaybar for more front flex and replace the stiff heavy duty rear springs with lighter duty (softer) Humvee rear springs and mounts.... this should give me a lot more flex for a few hundred bucks instead of thousands. As for the axleshaft pieces, it didn't even occur to me until I saw what a time you had on the trail.... then I thought hey I wouldn't have to do that. The advantage is I can change it quick and easily, the disadvantage is I have to ship them up here, I can't just go get new ones from Napa. Another downside is they cost 225 each for the light duty shafts and 420 each for the heavy duty.... but I got 3 heavy duty shafts for 450 total including shipping... gotta love Ebay, now I can fix the one I broke and have heavy duty spares.

Woody, you certainly shouldn't have any axle snapping problems with that 14 bolt in your K5.... just make sure you don't let Kev install it with old crusty center pins!!!! I am really looking forward to seeing you finish the K5, I really wanna see you tweak up that 6.2 diesel. You can actually get around 200 HP out of a non-turbo 6.2, there is a company that makes a cam for it and another that makes headers, man... now you're gonna force me to go digging for old links.... I'll post them when I find them. If you turn up the injection pump, do a good exhuast, cam, turbo prechambers in the heads, turbo injectors, K+N air filter, and headers, you should have all the power of a decent 350 and twice the mileage. Eventually I wanna do the injectors and cam....the headers are for a GM truck so I doubt they'd fit a Hummer but again, those things are near the bottom of my list.

http://www.stans-headers.com/gm_headers.htm
The link above is for headers
The link below is for the diesel depot, they offer the cam
http://www.thedieselpage.com/vendors/avant.htm

I have a ton of 6.2 stuff on my hard drive, you should come over sometime and print off what you want.

There are some other good projects you could do while building this engine, a company called penninsular diesel offers a 110 GPM water pump that will cool your 6.2 better than the stock 87GPM (heat buildup is the cause of head cracking). There is also another comany that offers an ARP head stud kit and girdle for the bottom end to prevent lower end block cracking (usually a result of a bad harmonic balancer). Anyway I have a lot of articles on stuff like this that I have been saving for the last few years if you want it.

You need to start a 6.2 tech thread and list your links there! Good info.

update to lil' T as of October 06...

I rewired the Mojave heater in for the winter. Now to get it permanently mounted behind the center console.
New rear shocks are on order again, and once they get here, it will be time to start fabbing up E brake cable mounts.

ChevyKev Wrote:You need to start a 6.2 tech thread and list your links there! Good info.

You forgot to mention your K-5 is currently a 4x2. However frozen hubs are probably the culprit.

Got the OME lift from Ron today... Been trying to get started on it but had to clean up the hanger first after getting the Pacer going. I'll dive in fresh in the morning.

I'm locked front and rear. The road conditions are perfect for learning how to drive with 1) an automatic locker and 2) a front locker. I have never had either before.

so how does it feel?

In 4wd, I can steer with my right foot. hock:
in 2wd, I can feel the ice compensating for the understeer.
I can't find dry hard ground to chirp.
There's quite a disconcerting sound when I hit the brakes. I guess it's just the gears meshing when one's turning at 20 mph and the other is locked up sliding on ice.



It'll be more than worth it on the trail.

Well good news and bad news.

1. My t-case is now able to go all through all the ranges without crawling underneath to get it out of 4-lo.
2. Kev and I made some nifty little brackets to keep my mortor can from flying about in the rear of the Jeep while going down the trails.
3. Exhaust has been adjusted slightly to keep it from hitting my crossmember, I may have to heat it up with a torch and adjust it more later, but for now, it's not rubbing so I'm happy.
4. Skitzo's engine is out, however it's got more than the 1 crack as we had originally assumed was the only problem, at least the engine turns over freely making it seem as the internals are still good.
5. We never got to the brakes and hubs of Kev's K-5, so without rear brakes and possibly without any action from his front axle, that rig is out. He's going to take the shotgun seat with me as we cannot renew vows without a minister, although the temps may cause us to do it via FRS radios.

Good wrenching tonight. Thanks to all who helped get Skitzo's engine out in 1 hour including clean up. Six sets of hands makes it almost too easy. Stick around guys as we have a few more motor swaps that need to happen over there in the near future.

Got the Hummer up and running again, the Ebay halfshaft was less than half the cost but took 2 weeks to get here. I originally thought it was the CV part of the halfshaft that broke because that one had some play in it, but it was the shaft itself, twisted the splines till the shaft broke in two. The good thing is that the replacement has 3.5 inch CV's and 1 1/8th shafts vs the orignal 3 inch CV's and 1 1/16th shafts, for a 20% increase in strength.

And I lied, it wasn't a 20 minute fix, maybe if I had air tools and a helper!!! After parking it in my garage for 3 hours to warm everything up, it took about 2 hours, due to having no helper (my 3.5 year old was in thegarage with me but he's more like an anti-helper), no room (Hummer in a one car garage), and using all hand tools..which I had to look for. I changed out the diff oil to see if the detroit had broken any teeth, but there were no chunks on the magnetic plug... so I guess the detroit took it and is back for more.

I also have 2 spare front shafts on the way, I need to find one more rear spare shaft, then I should be good.

OK I am ready to wheel again!!! Let's go!! Game on!!

Back in action...rock on!

http://www.arcticoffroad.com/forum/showt...#post42427

93hummer Wrote:OK I am ready to wheel again!!! Let's go!! Game on!!

Glad to hear you got it fixed - just about 15.5 hours too late to have gone with us yesterday!

Then again, if you had gone yesterday you'd might have gotten the impression that we have a requirement for a Dana 30 axleshaft to break on every run.

Jakes run is in 2 weeks.

It's actually the D35, but close there Kev. I'm just glad I had my spares along.

well for me the 67 scout driver's side is almost done , need to finish welding the floor body mount in and seal and prime for undercoating later then onto pass side floor boards .


now i'm in a delema for my DD 2000 taco . depending on the how bad my diff is fried from driving it with no oil in it in 4wd for 309 miles (thanks jiffy lube) . if i spend the money to rebuild it or if i take one of my solid axles and link the front ?
i'm really trying to retire my favorite truck ive ever owned off the trail but it does everything so well ....

and my 85 toy is so close to being a real contender for the harder trails now .. really just needing better gearing and a decent locker or LSD for the front .

bottom line is i have great ideas and dreams but life and money and reality keeps kicking me in the butt ....lol

Fix_It Wrote:bottom line is i have great ideas and dreams but life and money and reality keeps kicking me in the butt ....lol

ain't that the truth, it's the story of my life.

New responder in town down here. Joining the VGFD/SAR and the WJ is now also equiped with LED's and a siren. In the process of getting the BB lift for it and gonna try and go to 33's.

The 67 is running and legal to run. May be putting it in the shop this winter for rear axle reallignment and about 2-3" lift on the rear of the vehicle to move the fenders further from the tires and level it back up. It will also be getting a new paint job at the same time.

Cool. Atta boy for SAR. I'd like to do that sometime.

I've been getting stickers in the mail...

There have been parts in the boxes too, but who cares about parts? I have stickers! :lol:

As for the Blazer:

33 mile loop ripped my rear brake line (when someone wasn't paying attention while lowering the ax;e from the springs... :whistle: ) So that needs to be done

Then rescuing a certain Jeep from a certain water hole, I then had to driove through it as well - soon after the temps dropped - no big deal, right? Well, now my hubs aren't engaging. I'm sure it's just water in there frezing them up - but I need to go through the front haxle hubs and clean and re-grease everything, as well as a probable fluid change.

Suburban's winterization needed a little attention - it should be good to go as soon as I get new battery pads.

Skitrzo's engine is ready to rip apart. While I have it in the garage I will re-install the trans/t-case, re-do the engine with a non-cracked block, go through the front axle and figure out what went wrong in there, and install a heater.

I currently have the 83 Cherokee in the garage as I have it sold. I need to replace the valve cover, the battery, and the front sway bar and driveshaft. May install the nerf bars as well. Anyone have spare stock sway bar connecting rods?

7.3 Ford diesel engine is under rebuild.

Raven's truck should be done tomorrow possibly.

Need to troubleshoot the 6.2 diesel 3+3 and get it started and gone.

Jeep Build 2 sets of fixed CA's. I know what lengths I want, so the rest should be easy, I hope. I need to build the front uppers, and the rear lowers. That will fix my rubbing issue. I also need to recheck the front diff, it's clunking and making horrible sounds when the 4x4 is engaged and both front tires are getting traction. Build brackets and install new front bumper. Finish actual design and create the rear bumper.

85 Burb Put a second block heater on the motor, clean the motor. Pull 350 and auto out of the body and drop the 6.2L in. Need to aquire a starter, battery, and hopefully that will be it.

ME Need to learn how to weld so it doesn't look like stalagmites from a mine.