That's cool. I also have to really check into that power steering pump...it's crying mercy after tonight. That's warranty though, which is good.
MJ has a front locker and Woody has new gears (4.10) and a rear locker, T/C chain sounds shot. Sorry man. We'll hook you up later. Fly wheel is on it's way for the YJ then the 4500 & Atlas II will go in.
You fix one thing only to find problems with another.
Pictures after the 3.5SF install. I still need 33's, so dont bash me to hard.
Side View
Front
New Drive Shaft and Hack N Tap
New Front End
Looks great. I dorve 4" lift and 31s on stock rims for 3 months, trying to save $$$ for 33s.
I think your sway bar links may be too short still, though. How's it ride?
The ride is awesome on the OME shocks. I can lengthen the swaybar discos about another inch if need be, but this is where they still fit on the previous stowage pins. I am sure I will move them in the future, but until then.....
I have found that the more level the sway bar is, the better the ride.
JMO.
Well went through the boxes today.
I have an adjustable track bar for the rear that gets rid of the TB bracket back there.
I have an adjustable track bar, and new body side mount to take place of the old body side mount, and TB bracket in the front.
I also picked up a set of Bar Pin eliminators, should make the shocks a little less noisy.
I have a set of 4.5" front springs, but am holding off on those until I can afford new shocks, which will probably be awhile unless folks buy some of my stuff for sale.
I'm returning the KOR crossmember that doesn't work quite right, and need to find a 93-95 ZJ crossmember to make it work better. I'll figure out some sort of skid after I get a working crossmember.
sevenslats Wrote:I have found that the more level the sway bar is, the better the ride.
JMO.
This is sort of true.
IDEAL SWAYBAY ANGLES.
Theses are all positive angles.
WJ 30* (25-35)
ZJ 10* (5-15)
XJ 15* (10-20)
TJ 10* (5-15)
YJ, and most all CJâs 5* (0-10)
Hope that sheds some light on it.
I haven't seen a YJ or CJ with a sway bar in years.
Well, the skitzo has trans and t-case installed but when I test drove it it seemed like the front axle was binding somehow - though it was in 2wd and hubs were unlocked - thus thinking it was possibly my hibs or bearings - but they looked ok, as does the axleshafts and gears/diff.
So... hmmmm
At very least I will replace the axle seals that were leaky on extreme angles (ie:ramp)
I still say it's the T/C.
sorry i missed ya eric i drove my new rig over to your place but you were gone ..
but the 1967 scout 800 made it home with no problems at all except when i turned the fuel tanlk knob to switch tanks i acidently shut it off ..oops
even pulling the big hills she never slowed down . shes not fast but alot of torque .. opening up the glove box it has a factory sticker saying has a rear track lock in it . when you take off it spins both rear tires !
for a rig that has been in storage since 1985 you gotta love it !
and it made the 300 mile journey with flying colors !
thanks kevin and Kris for all your help ! and letting us crash there .
so for the vehicle update on this one is fix the minor rust on it
repaint it
hang new exhaust
build old school style roll bar
and drive it
i hope to keep it stock form exept maybe upgrade front drums to disc brakes
ChevyKev Wrote:Well, the skitzo has trans and t-case installed but when I test drove it it seemed like the front axle was binding somehow - though it was in 2wd and hubs were unlocked - thus thinking it was possibly my hibs or bearings - but they looked ok, as does the axleshafts and gears/diff.
So... hmmmm
At very least I will replace the axle seals that were leaky on extreme angles (ie:ramp)
holeski Wrote:I still say it's the T/C.
I agree. The way it was acting at the mud drags leads me to belive it is the tC. It only had 2wd. I do hope it all gets worked out though.
On the Skitzo - wHile I had the front completely apart, I got axle seals for it - ha da friend grab them and of course they were given the wrong seals. How hard should it be to find axle seals for a Dana 44 iin a Chevy?????
Anywhoo - I will get the correct seals and install those today as I reassemble the front axle.
Once done I will drive again and see how she acts. Maybe try 4wd as well....
When that is done I need to swing out to the Farm and grab my other t-case / trans combo . When I do that I will dropp the trans/t-c from the 85 burb to install the good one in it since the trans only has 2 of 4 forward gears - and I can use that t-case in the Skitzo... Then I will have 2 bad trannies, and 2 bad t-cases. - but hopefully both the Burb and Skitzo will be up and running.
Kev, just curious, but do you label these parts at all, or do you go by memory? Where I work, if ANY part is removed from the A/C, there's at least 2 separate forms we have to attach. Condition Tags, they're called. Do you do anything like that, or just go off of memory?
Mostly memory - but if there is damage that isn't visible I'll mark it in some wy - my last t-case destruction was fairly evident!
Well, do to very unfortunate circumstances with the loss of my father, I did end up with a new to me rig. Now, what should I do with this 1968 Jeepster Commando????
sorry to hear about your dad . but a 68 is a very rare car if you can keep it stck as possible and enjoy nice summer drives with it . i was just given a 67 scout 800 in awsome shape from a very close friend this week . wich i will be doing the same thing to . when i wrench on it i think of him and the good memories .
once again sorry for your loss , my dad and i are very close .
Bryant, keep your head up and keep the commando running and in stock form. Take the top off and drive it whenever the weather is decent. Use it as an object to help remember him by.
Well, just found a shop with a brand new 231 Chain for $70 shipped, so it's enroute. Hopefully it'll be up here in about two weeks. Needs to hurry so I can get the T-case fixed. I can hear the chain rattling inside when I drive, even in 2wd. YIKES!
If you need any help changen that chain out bro give me a call.
Also Bryant, Sorry to hear about your father. You are in our prayers!
I will be calling you soon, I was thinking about picking a day after the chain comes in and attempting to change it and both track bars.
I'd do the springs, but don't have the money right now to get shocks which I know I'll need then.
Just a thought, but if you remove the front driveshaft, the internals won't turn, right?
It was doing it without a front DS too. The chain should be here in 10 days or less, so hopefully it'll be fixed soon.
Just had my cast removed off my right (dominant) arm. I have a few more weeks be gentle with it, but I can start doing the needed repairs on the zuki now.
Transfer case-to-mount bracket- broken almost all the way off.
Front Draglink-bent from Rainbow trip.
Right Front Axle-I was told this wheel wasn't spinning, I need to take it apart and check it out.
Axle housing-Rainbow really did a number on my front cover. While I'm taking the front axle apart, I might as well remove the 3rd member and bangout and build a rock guard for the diff.
I can probably gently remove it all and get it back in. If not in a couple weeks I'll be cleared to start beating it all back up again. Needs to be ready for hunting season!